just use a normal 10w-30 oil right, then after 500 miles or so change and then run what ever i want? just dont break in with a good full synthetic right.
thanks- Brian
thanks- Brian
what oil for break in?
- Thread starter DaSuprawolf
- Start date
Try and get a single weight break in oil Valvoline do one as do many of the other companies.
In 5 Qts of your 10-30 you would have 4 Qts of Oil and 1 Qt of vicosity index improver which isn't actually Oil not to mention most Oils these days are Friction Moddified a big no no for a new Build.
In 5 Qts of your 10-30 you would have 4 Qts of Oil and 1 Qt of vicosity index improver which isn't actually Oil not to mention most Oils these days are Friction Moddified a big no no for a new Build.
Yes but VERY important to get one that has minimal additives or friction moddifiers I can't stress this enough as the Block is quite hard and if you use FM's it may never seat the rings.
Very welcome Brian!
I try to post my reasoning why and not just expect people to blindly follow anything I say
(been wrong in the past and I'm sure I will be again in the future)
I try to post my reasoning why and not just expect people to blindly follow anything I say
(been wrong in the past and I'm sure I will be again in the future)
IJ. said:Very welcome Brian!
I try to post my reasoning why and not just expect people to blindly follow anything I say
(been wrong in the past and I'm sure I will be again in the future)
Do you have proof of this, cause I for one don't believe it for a minute...........
suprahero said:Do you have proof of this, cause I for one don't believe it for a minute...........
Ian is human you know...
But yes a straight 30 weight would be great for break in.
Also, do not let your Rpms go below 1500 for the first half hour of the engines life.
I always thought he was some kind of automotive super computer that automatically replys to tech posts :dunno:MDCmotorsports said:
Also, do not let your Rpms go below 1500 for the first half hour of the engines life.
i think i read somewhere on here that you need to drive it fairly hard for that time to force the rings to seat properly before the they wear the hone off the cylinder then they wont ever seat right... this may be wrong but i vaguely remember something like this...
ross
i think i read somewhere on here that you need to drive it fairly hard for that time to force the rings to seat properly before the they wear the hone off the cylinder then they wont ever seat right... this may be wrong but i vaguely remember something like this...
ross
theres no certain RPM you have to keep it at. you have to vary your engine speed and not just keep it a constant RPM. drive it like you normally would, not too hard but not too easy.
The factory manual says between 2000 and 4000 never driving at one constant RPM for a long period of time.
ross1 said:
Yeah, you're talking about this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
That makes sense MDC, but what warming up to idle? Should you just start it and immediately take it to 1500 and just vary above that mark? Would make for abit of a tricky break in for city streets :icon_surp