what oil are you guys running in ur 1jz?

supramike7m

92 teal-wn turbo
Jan 29, 2006
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suprahero;888712 said:
So technically, their isn't a perfect oil for our cars, since we all live in different places with different temperatures. I run RP 10-30, and it rarely gets below 35 here and when it does, I'm not driving my car. I know you've covered it a hundred times, but what would be a better oil, for the money, than the Royal Purple. Thanks, Jay


a better oil for the money would be pennzoil plattinum, or even amsoil. even if the temp doesnt get below 35F these cst numbers are based on 40 and 100 degrees celcius, 40C is 104F. now if your even starting your car up in say 45F weather(7.2C) the oil cst number is goin to be far far from 10, probably around 250cst. again the closer that nuber is to 10 the better, or the faster you can get it there the better.
 

thechori

supra-deprived
Oct 3, 2006
567
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houston
i'm gonna have to say go with the REAL good stuff: Royal Purple 75w90 Synthetic Oil baby, leave the kids at home.
 

Dylan JZ

一番 King
Oct 18, 2007
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湾岸せん
The point JDub made that some of you missed was this little fact I tried to get at earlier but failed for several reasons..

Point: go as low as you cant with the start up weight because that provides the best protection on a start up because its thinner and will be able to reach the prominent areas of friction much quicker due to being thinner.

Also, as JDub said.. the Castrol GC (aka. German Castrol) runs more like a 40 weight (say Ie. Mobil oil) once its warm. In close, start up is where you want protection, thats where the most damage occurs.


SupraMike once again another good example of the point being made:
supramike7m;888759 said:
a better oil for the money would be pennzoil plattinum, or even amsoil. even if the temp doesnt get below 35F these cst numbers are based on 40 and 100 degrees celcius, 40C is 104F. now if your even starting your car up in say 45F weather(7.2C) the oil cst number is goin to be far far from 10, probably around 250cst. again the closer that nuber is to 10 the better, or the faster you can get it there the better.
 

bobiseverywhere

bobb'n for money
Apr 1, 2005
1,991
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Montreal
www.bobiseverywhere.com
suprahero;888712 said:
So technically, their isn't a perfect oil for our cars, since we all live in different places with different temperatures. I run RP 10-30, and it rarely gets below 35 here and when it does, I'm not driving my car. I know you've covered it a hundred times, but what would be a better oil, for the money, than the Royal Purple. Thanks, Jay

Hi Jay,

Isn't Redline the same price as the RP. I would be purchasing the Redline if i could get it for the same price as the RP up here.
 

OneJSupra

I'm a sleeper ...
Feb 9, 2007
900
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Supraland
I just switched to Red Line 10w30 in my last oil change after using Amsoil 5w40.

JDUB you da man, I think it's a better oil and the 1J loves it. :naughty:
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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Good comments guys...you're getting the idea :)

The brand of oil is much less important than how it flows cold, followed what viscosity it runs at ops temp. All of the motors (1J, 2J, 7M) you see in a Supra are designed for a 30W viscosity (SAE grade 9.30-12.49 cst). I use GC (after trying several different oils) because it makes the valve train in my 7M run a lot quieter, flows very well cold, and meets the SAE viscosity requirements the motor was designed for. Plus, it's a Grp IV PAO synthetic oil...for the heat a turbo puts out, that will prevent any problems "cooking oil" (coking) in the turbo at shut down. Syn oils also keep the inside of the motor squeaky clean.

Jay - RP is a very good oil, so don't get me wrong...it will meet your needs. But, as previously mentioned, use the 5W version for the cold flow characteristics. When I look at an oil, I also look at what it was made to do...RP is slanted more toward racing. It is a PAO based oil...the additive package is not as robust in terms of wear additives you'll see in oils designed for street vehicles. For the money, Red Line is similarly priced and is a far superior oil...it's Grp V ester based (same stuff used in jet turbine oil)...you can't get much better IMO. Having said that, you start splitting hairs when you are talking PAO and ester oils...both will perform better than mineral oil. Pennzoil Platinum is an exception (it's a Grp III)...Pennzoil has refined (extensive hydrocracking) it to the point where there is little difference to a PAO and the add pack is superb.

When I look at oil, I look at what it's going to cost me as well...here's my opinions on those that are commonly available:

German Castrol - Excellent oil, superb add pack, good price...thicker than average at ops temp. It appears AutoZone will continue to carry this oil.
Red Line - outstanding oil, superb add pack, but expensive...good for those that want the best and don't care about the $$$
Pennzoil Platinum - Excellent oil, superb add pack, good price, but not a Grp IV or V...it is on par with the GC, but not quite as thick at ops temp.
RP - Excellent oil, but expensive...add pack is not as extensive as the above which will shorten the change intervals. That will cost you more over the long run.
Amsoil (all except the XL line) - Excellent oil (PAO based) with a very good add pack, but expensive. You can only get it from an "Amsoil Dealer" in the US...that kind of marketing keeps pricing on the high side.
Mobil 1 - Excellent oil, good add pack, but not a Grp IV or V. Exxon has not been very open about this actually being a Grp III oil to keep pricing up. That's BS IMO (especially with record profits for the company) and I won't buy it...If I were to go with a Grp III oil, Pennzoil Platinum is superior add pack wise and they make it no secret concerning the base oil.

Any of these oils will go 5K easy between changes...the Grp IV and V oils, 8k easy (watch RP though). Just use a good filter, change it at the 4K point, and add some make-up oil.

Pick any of these and you motor will love you ;)
Consider the cold flow (lower viscosity per the spec sheets, regardless of what the 1st number is on the bottle) and how it performs at ops temp pressure wise (you're looking for 10 psi per 1000 rpm). Higher viscosity oils (i.e. 20W-50) is pretty thick even at ops temps...this gives you higher pressures, but is a result of the resistance to flow caused by the high viscosity. Use the grade the motor was designed for ;)
 

supramike7m

92 teal-wn turbo
Jan 29, 2006
759
0
0
prescott, Arizona
hey jay heres a good example of how these numbers can be deceiving.

Royal purple cst 40C cst 100C
5w-30 65.3 10.7
10w-30 70.3 11.0

so the 5w-30 is actually thicker than the 10w-30 at 100C. that way it wont thin out as much when your oil temp gets higher, but it gets you closer to that 10 cst on start up. so obviously 5w-30 is going to give you better protection for all conditions.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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supramike7m;891189 said:
hey jay heres a good example of how these numbers can be deceiving.

Royal purple cst 40C cst 100C
5w-30 65.3 10.7
10w-30 70.3 11.0

so the 5w-30 is actually thicker than the 10w-30 at 100C. that way it wont thin out as much when your oil temp gets higher, but it gets you closer to that 10 cst on start up. so obviously 5w-30 is going to give you better protection for all conditions.


Mike - I think you may have mis-read the spec sheet. RP 5W-30 is a small bit *thinner* than RP 10W-30 (10.6 cst vs 11.0 cst)...not a significant amount though. But you are correct about a lot of other oils...I have seen a 5W-30 that is thicker at ops temp than a 10W-30 of the same brand/series of oil.

Black - the Wix filter is a 51348...it's a 3/4-16 thread.
 

suprahero

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Aug 26, 2005
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I'm going to go to a RedLine site and start ordering it since it cost the same as RoyalPurple. I need to order some tranny and differential fluid anyways. Thanks guys for describing this in idiot terms for me........much love and respect.
 

suprahero

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I was on line at another place, but I'll check out Summitt. Do I need 75/90 for the rearend? I think it's like 1.4 quarts.
How much does the tranny hold if you know off the top of your head? I want to order it all at one time. Thanks again.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Jay - Use Red Line 75W-90 for the rear end (NOT 75W-90NS)...the former already has the friction modifiers needed for proper LSD operation in the formula.

For the R-154, MT90 is a better choice ;)