What needs to move?

Sl1dewaysSupra

Destroyer of FWD's
Mar 14, 2006
690
0
0
Colorado
Ok, after a rough year of mental masturbation I have decided to go 1/2 NA-t. Within the next year or so I will be turbo, what needs to be relocated to make way for the turbo and all the goodies that come with it? I ask now so I can start figuring out how to move stuff and where to move it to. Also so I can make a list of what I need to buy/do. Thanks for the help.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
Half of what's needed depends on the electrical setup you're planning on running. GE + GTE electronics, GE + Fuel Controller + Injectors, GE + MSD6 + Injectors + Fuel Controller, GE + MAFT Pro + Injectors.

So what's your plan?

Here's another source of info:
http://www.geocities.com/jt87na/na-t.html
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
In all the suggestions I listed there was the assumption you were referring to keeping the GE. There are several ways to handle the electronics. IMHO, the electronics are the biggest part of it. The site I posted (iirc) lists all the mechanical parts you'll need... those are more of a set requirement.
 

Sl1dewaysSupra

Destroyer of FWD's
Mar 14, 2006
690
0
0
Colorado
CRE said:
In all the suggestions I listed there was the assumption you were referring to keeping the GE. There are several ways to handle the electronics. IMHO, the electronics are the biggest part of it. The site I posted (iirc) lists all the mechanical parts you'll need... those are more of a set requirement.

Yeah, for some reason my post on keeping the GE and W58 didn't show up until after your last post. If that makes sense. That post was ment to be a response to Razoe's link.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
Personally I like the MAFT Pro, especially for 1/2 N/A-T builds. The built in timing control is a much better option than just throwing GTE electronics in the car given that the two engines still have different compression ratios. I just think it's a good idea to tune the timing advance to suit your engine, not just rely on the GTE's less aggressive timing curve.

BTW, the MAFT Pro has Boost Control functionality.

Aside from collecting the assorted essentials (oil cooler, IC, turbo, feed and drain lines, DP and manifold) making a return for the oil from the turbo seems to be the biggest hangup people hit. They usually make one of a few common mistakes: trying to use the port below the oil filter as a return (I know a few people tried it and most had nothing but problems with it), welding a bung on the oil pan that's either too small or too low on the pan causing a restriction in the flow, or trying to run the return to the return line on an oil filter relocation hub (a bad choice for a number of reasons, mainly the mounting height and back pressure).
 

Sl1dewaysSupra

Destroyer of FWD's
Mar 14, 2006
690
0
0
Colorado
^ After our discussion about MAFT and MAFT Pro I decided that was the best route for me. It will allow me to keep GE electronics, that was the one thing that stoped me from going turbo along time ago.(That and being able to compensate for compression ratios with the timing and tune an N/A motor that has been turboed.) Any more info on the oil return? I have been trying to figure out how it works in my head but I end up with more questions. Does it supply oil to the turbo or does it recirculate it back to the pan?
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
The return dumps back into the pan, or block if you want to pull the engine and drill out the stock return location. Drilling out the stock location is the cleanest, but least used, method. The stock oil return location is behind the oil filter, NOT the blocked off port below the oil filter. It's not drilled nor are the mounts drilled and tapped.

If you put the return in the oil pan you want it as high as possible and I think it'd be a good idea to put it toward the front of the pan. With the return toward the front of the pan you don't have to worry about restriction as much when the oil in the pan shifts to the rear during a hard acceleration.
 

TRACKMKIII

Banned
Feb 17, 2006
464
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40
Atlanta,GA
I like the idea of running the RabidChimp oil line kit and welding a return bung to the oil pan. That setup makes the most sense to me. By the way I don't know if my opinion matters but I think the oil return issue should be made into a sticky, because is information someone needs if they are going it NA-T.
 

Sl1dewaysSupra

Destroyer of FWD's
Mar 14, 2006
690
0
0
Colorado
Wow, my favorites list is growin larger with the links posted. I will look into the RabidChimp kit. What about the oil filter? Can it stay where it is at or do I need to relocate that?
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
I would relocate the oil filter. I'm not sure if you *have* to, but it's going to be damned hard to get to once the turbo is in.
 

suprahooked

Built 7M
Jun 20, 2006
1,160
0
36
pa
Should they run a oil cooler? I think that would help to cool the oil since the turbo is making the oil a little hotter.