What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
- Start date
congrats!!! i just got done with the exact same upgrades!
did you do the marlin rebuild kit? and the marlin bearing retainer too? i think marlin 1st gear is an understood upgrade anytime the trans is split.
did you do the marlin rebuild kit? and the marlin bearing retainer too? i think marlin 1st gear is an understood upgrade anytime the trans is split.
suprajztwenty;1959035 said:
i got the MC stuff from drift along with his 3-4 fork, i got the rebuild kit from cobra transmission.
after a quick search, looks like you saved a ton with the cobra kit. you get gaskets for the intermediate plate (not sure if its good for clearances) and i bet your output seal is correct unlike my marlin kit. had to spend another 10 bucks at vatozone for my correct timken seal.
also id like to note that it looks like the "upgraded" bearings that marlin offers appear to be the same as the cobra kit. (extra needle rollers and is 90% why i kept marlin in the rebuild kit) at $370+ for the marlin kit i feel like a tool now....
i used 75w from work (diesel truck syn oil) and im happy and convinced its fully broken in now after almost 500 miles. i really worked my syncros, downshifting very often, NOT heel-toe'ing, and simply go through the gears while coming to a red light/stop sign (clutch in and just go from 5th to 4th, 4th again, 4th again, 3rd, 3rd again, 3rd again and etc until i get down to first and i did this any time i had the opportunity) first gear is still a little stiff, but compared to before when i had to drive less than 5mph to get it to go in (now i can get it in first at 20-25mph) im extremely happy.
if you didnt get the marlin shifter bushing kit id strongly suggest the upgrade. i had to tap the cup into place and i got worried at first but once it pops in its a perfect precise fit. shifting is epic now, i love it.
on topic...i got my greddy blue installed (again...my 89 "gray plug" (yellow plug in disguise) took a shit and i went yellow plug and never re-installed the greddy) ill be tieing in the ignition harness shortly, i gotta make the little module/transistor thing first. just gonna take my time with it and make sure its clean.
but hey, i have a running car, im a happy mother fucker!
also id like to note that it looks like the "upgraded" bearings that marlin offers appear to be the same as the cobra kit. (extra needle rollers and is 90% why i kept marlin in the rebuild kit) at $370+ for the marlin kit i feel like a tool now....
i used 75w from work (diesel truck syn oil) and im happy and convinced its fully broken in now after almost 500 miles. i really worked my syncros, downshifting very often, NOT heel-toe'ing, and simply go through the gears while coming to a red light/stop sign (clutch in and just go from 5th to 4th, 4th again, 4th again, 3rd, 3rd again, 3rd again and etc until i get down to first and i did this any time i had the opportunity) first gear is still a little stiff, but compared to before when i had to drive less than 5mph to get it to go in (now i can get it in first at 20-25mph) im extremely happy.
if you didnt get the marlin shifter bushing kit id strongly suggest the upgrade. i had to tap the cup into place and i got worried at first but once it pops in its a perfect precise fit. shifting is epic now, i love it.
on topic...i got my greddy blue installed (again...my 89 "gray plug" (yellow plug in disguise) took a shit and i went yellow plug and never re-installed the greddy) ill be tieing in the ignition harness shortly, i gotta make the little module/transistor thing first. just gonna take my time with it and make sure its clean.
but hey, i have a running car, im a happy mother fucker!
suprajztwenty;1959037 said:
The kit did come with a gasket, not an awesome one but it did, I can't compare the mc bearings or seals but I know that compared to Toyota seals the cobra seals look the same even tho I'm going to use Toyota ones for mental sake.
I'm going to use a mix of redline mt90 and bg syncroshift, mechanic says I can boost it but no hard shifting. I am going to take it easy anyway.
About the stubborn 1st gear, Ive been stoked about that, mine also needed to be going 5mph or less with a rev match to go in. such a pain with Utah gutters.
And yes I bought the lower shifter bushing. (My shifter doesn't use the top one)
My shifter had a side to side play, hopefully this will cure it.
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I have a quick question about divorced downpipes on stock 7Ms, with a DDP would it increase the boost to under fuel cut levels and if so then should I remove my manual boost controller? The boost controller I have seems to suck ass anyway because I used to be able to run it at higher boost and not hit FC but I had to turn it down to stock levels to stop hitting FC but still pulls kind of hard. Anyway, with a 3" DDP on a stock 7M would that increase boost or just make more power because there is less restriction? I end up confusing myself if freeing up exhaust flow increases boost or not.
Most improvements to the stock exhaust system will increase boost. Whether it's under or over FCO depends on a number of factors, including any other mods anywhere else on the engine.
The only other mods I have is an intake filter for the turbo other than that the car is stock.
Also I've been driving on my new Eibach springs and Tokico shocks for about a week now and I must say its made a WORLD of difference. No more wheel skipping over bumps for me 
Car feels solid and controlled at all times especially going over any type of imperfection in the road. And since it's lowered it sits nicer and gets rid of some of that ugly wheel gap. Overall one of the best purchases Ive made/installed yet!!
Car feels solid and controlled at all times especially going over any type of imperfection in the road. And since it's lowered it sits nicer and gets rid of some of that ugly wheel gap. Overall one of the best purchases Ive made/installed yet!!
Doat;1959076 said:
free flowing exhaust mostly helps with spool time, less turbo lag. the turbo's maximum boost output has nothing to do with exhaust after it (only with a stock wastegate setting). the turbo wastegate actuator is set to a precise pressure to start to open and fully open to keep from over boosting. your manual boost controller only restricts the amount of pressure this actuator sees.
assuming you have a boost gauge otherwise a manual boost controller is retarded to have by itself. if it were me id 0 out the controller after installing the exhaust just to be safe, because like i said, youre 100% safe to run with a stock wastegate actuator and nothing interfering with it but since youve lessened the pressure the actuator sees i think you could potentially hit FC.
i said screw using a mbc and got the driftmotion wastegate actuator, set for 10-11'ish. i hit fuel cut one time on a cool night but i was able to back out the adjustment screw on my maf housing a little bit and havnt hit since.
now that i have my greddy installed im gonna start looking for a profec, EBC ftmfw!
Also replaced my O2 sensor, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, cleaned my MAF, all in an attempt to see if that's why I'm running rich. All to no avail
**Also cleaned my injectors
**Also cleaned my injectors
Last night I decided on removing the crap controller and thought about buying that actuator from DM. Great info man thanks. I will remove the controller when I install the downpipe and hopefully my new water pump on wednesday.suprajztwenty;1959131 said:
I had a productive day of playing with a powder coating machine.
Well, first the sandblasting cabinet
Then I did one with blue, and a metallic clearcoat
Then I did a bunch of parts in gloss black, parts that don't show.
test fit a few on the stand.
Messed up on the intake manifold, so I'm going to have to strip it down and do it again. Too much clearcoat. It's got the whole "milky way" thing going The powder kind of came out way too fast as I tipped the gun.
Well, first the sandblasting cabinet
Then I did one with blue, and a metallic clearcoat
Then I did a bunch of parts in gloss black, parts that don't show.
test fit a few on the stand.
Messed up on the intake manifold, so I'm going to have to strip it down and do it again. Too much clearcoat. It's got the whole "milky way" thing going
The powder kind of came out way too fast as I tipped the gun.
I would pull the baffels out of the valve covers and clean it out. Chances are there's trapped sand under them.
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
Suppose to post this up the other day but feel asleep lol.......
I washed my Supra along with my Sister's Camry today. Also I pulled the engine out the red Supra. Engine has a spun bearing.
I washed my Supra along with my Sister's Camry today. Also I pulled the engine out the red Supra. Engine has a spun bearing.
I'm expecting trapped sand in EVERYTHING. It'll all get cleaned out before a single bolt, stud or nut holds any of that stuff in place.Backlash2032;1959209 said:
You pulled the engine on the roadside? I'm impressed. I figure that if I tried that here, I'd get in a lot of trouble.