Weight reduction

[RazoE]

Rear seats can't possibly be 28 lbs. The whole bottom cushion could be lifted by Stephen Hawking. I will admit I have never lifted the rear seat-backs, but there's no way they're 14 lbs each..

 

[Dylan JZ]

They're really light, both stock and Recaro, that's all I remember.

 

[Nick M]

I like to have my interior. My car isn't a drag racing machine.

This.

 

[Poodles]

Rear seat backs have a metal frame in them making them much heavier.

 

[Mr Bojangles]

Rear seats can't possibly be 28 lbs. The whole bottom cushion could be lifted by Stephen Hawking. I will admit I have never lifted the rear seat-backs, but there's no way they're 14 lbs each..

Rear seat backs have a metal frame in them making them much heavier.

What he said. They are solid metal frames and really do weigh quite a lot. I know I was shocked when I pulled them out.

You can lose some weight tastefully doing things like others said with seats and move as much weight to the back as possible but if you really want light then start with a 5 speed hardtop and go from there. Auto targas are the heaviest of them all.

 

[destrux]

You would really be surprised how much weight you can remove on this car. There's a guy on SF that has his down to ~2700 pounds and it's still got a turbo 6 cylinder (can't recall if it's 7M/1J/2J).

You don't have to get rid of stuff completely, you can replace parts with lighter parts. I'm not referring to carbon fiber body parts. You can get lighter/smaller reservoirs for the fluids, lighter turbo system components, lighter wheels/tires, suspension components, replace steel component brackets with aluminum, lighter stereo stuff, lighter seats, lighter sound deadener (spray in foam based stuff is much lighter and works better than old school tar mat). There are plenty of opportunities to update 25 year old technology to save pounds here.

You can also get out the hole saws and flange tool and take some metal out of the shell (if done correctly, this adds stiffness and strength due to the flanges around the hole). The bottom image here is the Opera S2000. Google it for more info... they went crazy with the lightening holes and dropped some serious pounds.

 

[mjsn1]

Instead of bothering yourself with the interior, and ending up with a rattling car, just work on the engine.
my car has about 400 HP and more upgrades are still coming, and i still have the stock wheels on. that's how i like my car.

 

[te72]

You can also get out the hole saws and flange tool and take some metal out of the shell (if done correctly, this adds stiffness and strength due to the flanges around the hole). The bottom image here is the Opera S2000. Google it for more info... they went crazy with the lightening holes and dropped some serious pounds.

Not really something for the amateur, but if you're serious, this is the level of dedication to SERIOUSLY lose weight while maintaining the car's luxuries. Seam welding is a good idea too.

Also, if you can swing it, you'd be surprised just how much better a set of forged magnesium wheels are. Then again, you're not going to find those for what any sane person would call affordable...

 

[Dylan JZ]

Stitch welding and frame filler can actually make these cars rather stiff.. square the subframes away with new bushings and lose some weight, then we're talking some serious material.

 

[destrux]

Instead of bothering yourself with the interior, and ending up with a rattling car, just work on the engine.
my car has about 400 HP and more upgrades are still coming, and i still have the stock wheels on. that's how i like my car.

Sure, power is easy, but everything else isn't.

Think about this...

A 2900 pound car with 290hp will be just as fast as a 3700 pound car with 370hp. Yeah, losing 800 pounds is harder and more expensive than gaining 80hp. The thing people don't think of is that dropping 27% of the car's weight (as in this example) is the same as upgrading your brakes, suspension, and tires to parts that are 27% better. If you already have that stuff upgraded to the best stuff, you're still that much better off than the guy with the full weight car who has the same parts as you. You also wear those parts out 27% slower during normal driving.

 

[Another MkIII]

I will agree that that weight reduction has its advantages, but it also has its place. Stripping the interior on a car used almost entirely on the street is rice as all hell. At the same time, doing nothing more than gutting your interior for a track car is a half assed effort that will save you at most, 200 pounds. On a 3500 pound car, that's not much compared to 200 pounds in a honda. Doing proper weight reduction (Lighter/smaller parts, weight reduction holes, etc) for the right reasons (A car that sees regular track use) is really the only way to do this without falling into the ricer category.

^My opinion.
-AM3

 

[A. Jay]

Sure, power is easy, but everything else isn't.

Think about this...

A 2900 pound car with 290hp will be just as fast as a 3700 pound car with 370hp. Yeah, losing 800 pounds is harder and more expensive than gaining 80hp. The thing people don't think of is that dropping 27% of the car's weight (as in this example) is the same as upgrading your brakes, suspension, and tires to parts that are 27% better. If you already have that stuff upgraded to the best stuff, you're still that much better off than the guy with the full weight car who has the same parts as you. You also wear those parts out 27% slower during normal driving.

I completely agree with you, but...

I will agree that that weight reduction has its advantages, but it also has its place. Stripping the interior on a car used almost entirely on the street is rice as all hell. At the same time, doing nothing more than gutting your interior for a track car is a half assed effort that will save you at most, 200 pounds. On a 3500 pound car, that's not much compared to 200 pounds in a honda. Doing proper weight reduction (Lighter/smaller parts, weight reduction holes, etc) for the right reasons (A car that sees regular track use) is really the only way to do this without falling into the ricer category.

^My opinion.
-AM3

that is also my opinion.

 

[SupraClaou]

Listing of parts on Mk2 Supra and their weights.
I know it is not for a mk3 supra but you can get an idea.
Weights shown are actual, unless marked as (est) which is estimated.

Part Name Weight (lbs)

#Under the Hood

A/C condenser with metal frame, fan and receiver/drier 14
A/C compressor with metal bracket 21
A/C system freon lines, under the hood (total) 5
Battery 40
Radiator (stock unit, empty, dry) 15
Rad fan with viscous clutch (est) 4
Headlight motors (total weight for 2) 4
Windshield wiper motor 5
Wiper blades, arms, and connector 3
Washer fluid reservoir (empty), pump, bracket, headlite washers, tubing 3
Charcoal canister and bracket 4
EGR system (valve, vac mod, cooler, hoses, lines, etc.) 3
Cruise control actuator and cable 2
Heater valve and hoses 2
Metal support to put battery on 1
Intake manifold, 2 pieces + throttle body, with fuel rail, inj, ISCV, TPS 18
Intake piping from air filter to throttle body, including AFM and airbox 9
Exhaust manifold (stock) 16
Pacesetter headers with downpipe to cat 16
Downpipe to cat (stock) 8
Catalytic convertor (stock) 7
Catback exhaust (stock system) 17
Alternator 12
Starter 10
Power steering pump with reservoir (empty) 9
Power steering cooler and lines 2
Coil and Igniter 3
Water pump 3
Clutch hydraulic system (master & slave cylinders, lines, fluid) 3
Engine wiring harness 2
Front end Body wiring harness (est) 8
Fuse box under the hood, with relays, fuses and attached wiring 6
Relays for A/C, EFI, headlight retract and washers, EFI resistor 2
Under hood light and bracket 0.5

Total for Under the Hood 277.5

#Drivetrain

Head, with cam boxes,cams,springs,valves,lash adj,rocker arms,plugs 74
Block, completely stripped, cast iron block only 125
Crank 52
Crank bearing caps and bolts 9
Pistons, wrist pins, conn rods and caps 13
Front lower timing belt case and rear oil seal retainer 2
Oil pump with pickup and oil pump driveshaft 5
Motor mounts (2) 8
Belts (timing belt, water pump, dist, fan, alt, A/C) 1.5
Hoses (rad hoses, heater hoses, vapour lines, vac lines) (est) 5
Distributer with cap and rotor 3
Thermostat housing and extension elbow (aluminum pieces) 2
Clutch pressure plate 12
W58 5 speed transmission (dry) 89
A430DE 4 speed auto transmission (with fluid) 120
Torque converter for auto trans 32
Stiffener plates (joining trans to engine) and rear trans xmember 5
Differential 65

Total for Drivetrain 622.5

#Passenger Compartment

Spare tire, jack and tool kit 47
Homemade subwoofer box with attached amp 30
Stereo head unit 3
Stereo speakers (all 5) 7
Roll out cargo cover 5
Sunroof motor 2
Power doorlock and window mechanisms (total - both doors) 11
Door glass (total - both doors) 24
Door parts - hinges, wiring, latches, handles (total - both doors) 25
Driver's seat 45
Passenger seat 41
Front seatbelts (both sides) 7
Emergency brake handle assembly 2
Rear seat bottom 11
Rear seat backs (total for both) 18
Rear seatbelts (both sides) 3
Interior Carpet - front seat portion 7
Interior Carpet - back seat portion 6
Interior Carpet - trunk/cargo area portion 7
Vinyl mat and underpad against firewall, behind gas and brake pedals 7
Gas, brake and clutch pedals and brackets. (est) 6
Headliner + surrounding trim + handles + sun visors + rearview mirror 10
Door skins (total for four pieces, two on each door) 15
Wooden subfloor in cargo area + insulation under it 9
Trim panels in cargo area: c-pillar panels, compartments, tail-lt covers 11
Trim in rear seat area (speaker covers,armrests,side panels,etc) (est) 12
Trim in front seat area (lower dash + undercovers, console, kick panels) (est) 15
Door weatherstripping (total for both sides) 2
Under dash HVAC system, ducting, blower motor, heater core, evap 31
Under dash and interior wiring harnesses 22
ECU and fuseblocks on both kickpanels (est) 8
Dash steel supports and cross brace 12
Padded Dash (with vents and defroster vent covers) 8
Instrument Cluster 2
Steering column and wheel and combination switches 22
Windshield 22
Rear quarter windows glass (total for both sides) 10
Rear quarter windows interior metal supports (both sides) 2
Rear hatch glass 25
Rear hatch weatherstripping 2
Sound deadening on floor (est) 10

Total for Passenger Compartment 564

#Miscellaneous

Rear window wiper motor, linkage, arm, blade, fluid bag and pump 5
Mudflaps (set of 4) 3
Plastic engine undercover and wheelwell plastic splash guards (est) 10
Side Power Mirrors (both) 4
Power Antenna 2
Rear hatch wing/sunshade (82-84 style) 13
Rear hatch spoiler/surround (85-86 style) 15
Bodyside moldings and rocker moldings 10
Cowl trim plate under windshield wipers 2
Front bumper cover, foam insert & metal header panel (foam is 4 lbs) 24
Pop-up headlight assemblies, including cover panels & lights (both sides) 19
Grille, turn signals, foglights with buckets (both sides) 6
Rear bumper cover and foam insert (foam alone is 6 lbs) 16
Taillights and licence plate holder 9
Gas tank and filler neck (empty) 31
Fuel pump and bracket (outside tank) 3
Nuts and bolts for various pieces all over the car (est) 40

Total for Miscellaneous 212

#Structural Items that could be lightened

Front bumper steel reinforcement 30
Rear bumper steel reinforcement 22
Front cross member 16
Rear cross member (lower) 32
Rear cross member (upper) 7
Doors - with side beam reinforcement (total for 2) 76
Rear seat and hatch area mounting plate 4
Rear hatch without glass or any other accessories 28
Hood with felt insulation liner 45

Total for Structural Items 260

#Suspension, Steering and Brakes

Front spring and strut assemblies (total for both sides) 70
Rear springs and shocks (total for both sides) 22
Front sway bar 10
Rear sway bar 3
Front control arms with ball joints & steering knuckles attached (both) 11
Rear control arms with hubs (total for both sides) 76
Steering rack and pinion w lines, brackets and ends attached 28
Front radius rods with brackets (both sides) 11
Front calipers and brackets (total for both sides) 18
Rear calipers and brackets and drum shoes (total for both sides) 16
Brake booster with master cylinder attached 12
Brake pads at all 4 corners 6

Total for Suspension, Steering and Brakes 283

#Rotating Masses

P-type 14x7 rims (total for all 4) 60
225/60R14 tires (total for all 4) (215/60R14 weigh 21 lbs each) 100
Front brake rotors with hubs attached (total for 2) (est) 20
Rear brake rotors (total for 2) 17
Flywheel 17
Clutch disc 3
Driveshaft 21
Rear axle half shafts (total for 2) 25
L-type 14x5.5 rim with 185/70R14 tire (each weighs 32 lbs)

Total for Rotating Masses 263

#Body shell

Firewall and engine compartment unibody (est) 120
Floorpan under doors (est) 50
Rear seat floor pan and hatch area unibody (est) 140
Roof with sunroof underpanel, A and B pillars and rear pillars (est) 70
Front fenders (total for both sides) 22
Sunroof panel with rubber surround seal 12

Total for Body shell 414

Grand Total 2896

 

[IJ.]

If weight is important you chose the wrong car.... :nono:

The Mk3 is a Heffalump at best even stripped down to a noisy hot rattly PoS with none of the original creature comforts, conversely it's best feature is you can keep ALL in place and still smoke most of the cars on the road you come across when properly built.

Of course this means you need more than a $25 budget but this comes back to the wrong car statement...

 

[destrux]

I will agree that that weight reduction has its advantages, but it also has its place. Stripping the interior on a car used almost entirely on the street is rice as all hell. At the same time, doing nothing more than gutting your interior for a track car is a half assed effort that will save you at most, 200 pounds. On a 3500 pound car, that's not much compared to 200 pounds in a honda. Doing proper weight reduction (Lighter/smaller parts, weight reduction holes, etc) for the right reasons (A car that sees regular track use) is really the only way to do this without falling into the ricer category.

^My opinion.
-AM3

I agree with you there, except for the last part. I don't see anything wrong with lightening a car that only sees street use as long as you aren't stripping it to the point that it looks gutted or like a piece of junk. I dropped a significant amount of weight on my car, and you wouldn't know it by looking at it.

It makes a noticeable difference it the way it drives. I can feel a difference when I load two passengers in the car, which is equivalent to the amount of weight I removed (roughly 400 pounds).

 

[phatbimmer]

Aren't our cars GT cars? I don't daily or track my car but I love having my 70lb seat that is comfortable and I like having my interior with working A/C. My plans are to get lots of HP and Torques and let the engine take care of that weight stuff.

 

[te72]

If weight is important you chose the wrong car.... :nono:

The Mk3 is a Heffalump at best even stripped down to a noisy hot rattly PoS with none of the original creature comforts, conversely it's best feature is you can keep ALL in place and still smoke most of the cars on the road you come across when properly built.

Of course this means you need more than a $25 budget but this comes back to the wrong car statement...

\thread? I think this sums it up.

 

[blue7mgte]

I agree with the "get a gym membership" lol I much rather keep my car looking nice inside and out

 

[Janz99]

My cars about as stripped as you can get it without starting to cut things out. Its all dependant on what you want, and what you can live with. I took out all the sound deadening, heater core, went with a painless chasis harness, custom engine harness, kirkey seats, no rear interior what so ever. The only interior pieces that are still there are the dash and centre console, coil over suspension and aftermarket wheels.

Yes its a rattle can, yes its loud, yes it gets hot inside the car on hot days outside, but its light, handles amazing and is fast as hell.

 

[Jimbo]