i updated the thread sizes in the first post. i did it today and put the correct sizes needed. also, if youd like the line, preasembled and the fittings together as a direct bolt in kit, pm me!
Ways to cure 7M oiling issues
- Thread starter williamb82
- Start date
Will-
are you talking about a soft line set-up? Or are you going the hard-line route? When I get my block back from the machinest I was looking at doing a hardline set-up (don't trust the braided line over the long run).
Thanks for doing the research for all the thread sizes - this will speed up assembly greatly.
are you talking about a soft line set-up? Or are you going the hard-line route? When I get my block back from the machinest I was looking at doing a hardline set-up (don't trust the braided line over the long run).
Thanks for doing the research for all the thread sizes - this will speed up assembly greatly.
nope, i did soft line, as i said, its good to 300deg f and 1000psi pressure, itll be fine. and the way i did it it cant move or touch anything. the line isnt a buttle rubber. its some type of neoprene composite the gy said. he said it is chemical resistant and oil wont wear it out or deteriorate it.
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drumminforev
Guest
they keep the oil from whipping up in the engine and creating drag. and they mount between the block and oil panthey SCRAPE the rotating assembly of the oil mist.
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drumminforev
Guest
williamb82 said:
By whip do you mean to stop oil from foaming?
When are these neccessary to install.
Edit: well i was just reading....So the crank doesnt actually sit submersed in oil then right? Im guessing there are oil squirters all above it to keep it lubed?
Why not just have a windage tray below the crank?
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william any update on the squirters springs? I called yota and they said they only had 1 left and that it was in BC. help? 
They are never 'neccessary' per se, but if you were going to do it, the pan has to be off...drumminforev said:
The oil-squirters are at the bottom of the cylinder's and shoot oil on the bottom of the piston for cooling. they have nothing to do with crank lubrication. only gte's have the squirters- the ge's don't (as a general rule).drumminforev said:
want to build one?drumminforev said:
if i was to mass make this hard line whoudl poeple buy it still don't trust braid line in there thou i have bena warned about it
why is it a good idea to replace the springs in the oil squirters? do they get stuck shut? either way if the ge's dont have them and the early gte's dont either then why the big deal?
well, actually your replaceing the bolts that hold the squirters in. they have a check valve that runs off a spring inside them. springs wear with age and begin compressing earlier then origonally intended. which means they open at lower pressures then intended and hurt the oil flow to the bearings at low rpm's where oil pressures are lower. idle as well. i need to order some myself, i figured theyd be special order from japan. not surprised in the least there arnt any in stock stateside.
hmm that makes sense. well let us know if and where you find some. ill be needing those here very shorty. worst comes to worse just get a bolt and block them all off, no? is it needed anyway?
There are alot of people that block them off to increase oil pressure. Even IJ was comtemplating doing this, but didnt have the oil passages in his Pauter rods, so decided to keep them.
Here is my set up so far, not sure if it has ever been done before. I like the idea of changing over to AN fittings and aeroquip line instead of metal feed tube.
Im going to do my best to keep it clean, no driving in the rainmk3forme said:
I wonder how much i could sell it for?????
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