Want to build a reliable high power 7m

Compton74

New Member
Oct 8, 2008
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Long Beach
As title states I'm wanting to build a reliable high power 7m. I'm very familiar wih supras but not familiar with making a high horsepower 7m. Would like to run in the neighborhood from 5 to 600hp. I understand that this needs to be done correctly and no shortcuts taken and this is expensive and not something that is just thrown together. Thing is where do i start, I need to budget but need correct info on doing such. I know I'm going to want to run a turbo kit such as one from driftmotion which involves running a piggyback or standalone of some sort but I don't have much experience with computer management systems, how to run them, which one to use, and how they really work. If there are any threads here, or info you guys have about doing such I'd be greatly appreciative. Thanks for all the help guys.
 

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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Milwaukee, WI
Read up on what people have done to their 7m in the build up gallery/dyno threads and get some ideas. That what I did.

I just got done building my motor, and am starting to readup on all that stuff myself! :)

I'm sure there will be people that chime in though.

Good luck!
 

STREET90

New Member
Jan 8, 2011
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Long Beach
Hey Compton call if you need any help, but First make sure you find a good condition block and head, not like mines lol, but the first thing to do is to find the ingredients to the power you want. Know the 7m specs such as the bottom end and head, such as the pistons, and rods don't forget the crank 7m or 6m crank each is different, rods ( H or I ) brand and horsepower rating, For head work you'll need to find out about that, especially the combustion chamber for porting and such, just look around, Also don't forget about the electronics
 

kueves87

New Member
Oct 18, 2009
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tucson
I've been building my 87 for a few years and here's what i did. Used gte from junkyard, je pistons(.20 over), eagle rods, new (used) crank. took to a very reputable machine shop to balance the crank, deck the block, 3 angle valve job, machine the head, install the pistons, rods and crank and balance the motor. i would leave the install of pistons,rods and crank to a machine shop cuz they usually know wtf they're doing. Thats the easiest way to build a bulletproof 7m... oh and buy a t61 turbo for the hp... lol
 

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
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16
corinth tx
i found a built shortblock i haggled for 1400,
89+block, eagle, wiseco .20's ceramic/teflon coated, arp everything, new oil pump, decked .6mm, balanced 6m crank (lighter than 7m+even lighter when balanced) king bearings, all new seals/gaskets/freeze plugs (which will get ditched in the "going over" process, but still)

parts alone are well over what i paid for it, 1600...then machine work/assembly will probably cost another 1k at a reputable place (block only!...expect another 2-600 for the head, depending on valve angle jobs, etc) so, to do it yourself youre looking at around 3k just for the ground work and thats maybe if you know a guy that knows a guy, could be more, could be less.

then youll need the basics to help with future assurance...mostly anything thats difficult to do later, invest and do it now!
full gasket set/freeze plugs(100+), performance timing belt (greddy for mine, retails about 150+, got it for 75) arp head studs(130+..mine-75 bucks), head gasket (calculate needed size accordingly! mine is hks 3.0, 250 shipped) clutch/flywheel, arp flywheel bolts, and i know im missing several other big ticket items.
race/mild port job/basic gasket match for head and manifolds (lots of your own time and about 50 bucks+ for the tools/attachments)
various hardware, clamps, hoses, rebuild kits (did my cps, power steering pump, starter and alternator while i have it all out)
if i was paying someone to do all this im looking at 5k+ for everything...really im at around 2400+ including things i was missing like upper timing cover, coil cover, broken gauge cluster, broken front bumpers etc...

once you have the basis there and broken in, all is well, THEN you can start shooting for power...factor in plenty more money to get 600hp but atleast at this point its all just bolt ons and relatively simple to install...budget and tuning will make this the more difficult part of this build.

im in the exact same boat you are, 600 is my overall goal with pump 93/95 and meth injection...maybe e85 in my future will bump that up OR will get me to that 600 mark if i dont hit it with pump.

im no pro, this is just how ive gone about things...there are plenty of members here that will point you where you need to go, just like theyve helped me. i also need to give props to most members on supraforums as well since its my main forum.

budget/sell toys/take a loan/work on your knees, whatever it takes to get it done...im done spending money for now but atleast its done!
 

jagpride

New Member
Nov 17, 2009
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So Cal
Yea compton74 it aint no walk in the park and its very expensive. Whats the fastest car you ve been in compton74? I ask because there's people out there that say they want 500,600 ect hp but when they ride in a 350 hp car there shiting there pants. I want time had a friend that rode with me in a friends 380 awdhp evo 8 running E85 he wanted to build a supra for 500 hp when that evo hit full boost my buddy's face was so funny he looked like he was on supreme scream or something later after that he had asked "how much hp is that evo running" "i told him 340 on pump" he was like wtf no way and i told him he was rideing it on one of its good days sense my boy was running E85 after that he tolled me "dam what was i getting myself into" Moral of my story power in the 500 hp is alot!! 400hp is alot! If you realy have the budget time then just read get to know what your doing and listen to what are buddys up top said.Its all prep and attention to detail.

FYI compton74 I belive there have been a couple of guys on supraforums.com that have hit the 500 hp mark with 7m stock bottom end with MHG and supporting mods. And to be totaly honest I dont hate on the 7m but if you have the budget to build a 7m (obvisley you have money) you might as well go 2j.Again i love 7m (i am rocking one myself) but 2j biggercams,bigger vavles better cooling.one less thing to do imo. Still <3 7M
 

kotu100

Active Member
Nov 23, 2006
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Easton, Ma
i bought my built 7M longblock for just under $4k
92 block (lil bit stronger casting than the previous years)
+.040 JE pistons
crower rods
polished crank
blueprinted and balanced
cometic MHG
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
new head with +1mm oversize valves
stock cams and gears
ATI Damper pulley

parts alone on this engine is close to what i paid for it, never mind all the extensive machining work, and labor.
i think thats the way to get the best deal, either buy an assembled built shortblock (provided the builder knows what they're doing), or buy a longblock for a lil bit more.

For me the main factor was the convenience of a fully assembled motor with no turnaround time for it to get built.
A lot of people ask me why i didnt go with a 2J. The answer is simply the cost and hassle for the conversion outweighed the benefits. a 2J swap can sometimes cost over $5k, so since i had all the supporting mods for the 7m already it just made more sense to keep 7M rather than swap.
You should consider all of this before you make a decision. In your case a 2J swap might make more sense.
Good Luck!
 

Compton74

New Member
Oct 8, 2008
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Long Beach
Thanks everyone for all the feedback fastest car I've riden in is a zr1 corvette which makes like 700? But I'd really like to stay 7m, I'm kinda one of those people who unless the car is purpose built for racing and such, I'd like to keep the original motor it came with. This car is my daily driver right now, and will be when I get this motor in it. Biggest thing for me is electronics, to run a 67mm turbo kit from drift motion I really don't think it's something you just throw on, so I'd like to get more information on which computer system, piggyback or standalone, would better suit my needs. Thanks again for all the help
 

jagpride

New Member
Nov 17, 2009
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Compton 74 read up on maft pro its one of the best piggy backs out there and its acuatly pretty cheap compared to other gadget. SAFC (fuel controler) is pretty cool if you want to stay probaly below 400hp after that they run out of adjustment. Oh by the way i almost forgot run mafty pro and you can ditch your maf sensor sense you can run on speed density with maft pro quicker spool and if for whatever reason you blow a IC pipe you can still get home with no probelm.
 

jonahs_supra

Active Member
May 17, 2011
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Lancaster, Ohio, United States
jagpride;1751788 said:
FYI compton74 I belive there have been a couple of guys on supraforums.com that have hit the 500 hp mark with 7m stock bottom end with MHG and supporting mods.

IIRC i remember seeing a guys dyno sheet with stock but freshened bottom end
i believe everything was balanced
MHG and so on for external mods
he was hitting low 600s
let me see if i can find a link

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?230363-700HP-mkiii-vegas&highlight=700hp+7m

---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 PM ----------

cant find the dyno sheet link but the above link tells about a guys 700hp on stock bottom end using a vpc and nitrous lol
 

jonahs_supra

Active Member
May 17, 2011
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Lancaster, Ohio, United States
yes but i still would rather build a bottom end lol
the extra insurance will make me feel better
as for me
im wanting to get 400rwhp out of my daily with stock bottom end
only things i need yet are AFPR and bigger injectors

so far i have 46trim ct26 with 12 degree turbine clip, fmic, full 3in exhaust, walbro 255, MHG, ARP headstuds, HKS VPC, SAFC2, LM1 wideband and a good running 7m lol
 

jonahs_supra

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May 17, 2011
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Lancaster, Ohio, United States
i dont know a whole lot about it and hopefully a forum member with more knowledge on the vpc will chime in

but what i do know is
it get rid of the restrictive and ugly AFM
switches over to speed density
there tuning advantages that come along with it as well
bov can be vented to atmosphere without stalling

but HKS no longer makes the VPC units anymore
from time to time you can find 1 on here for around 250-300 with the plug and play harness

also the search button will teach you a lot about the vpc
 

bioskyline

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Oct 21, 2010
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powell river bc
jonahs_supra;1752132 said:
i dont know a whole lot about it and hopefully a forum member with more knowledge on the vpc will chime in

but what i do know is
it get rid of the restrictive and ugly AFM
switches over to speed density
there tuning advantages that come along with it as well
bov can be vented to atmosphere without stalling

but HKS no longer makes the VPC units anymore
from time to time you can find 1 on here for around 250-300 with the plug and play harness

also the search button will teach you a lot about the vpc

pretty much. it was what was used before maftpro was available. was available in both the stock 440 and the 550 injector models (by swaping a rom chip) also has some limited tunning options, but could be used with the fcon and gcc to tune a bit farther. i own one and works great, though finding it is near impossible

but its no longer available as most cars are now map based, and dont need the converion anymore.
 

jonahs_supra

Active Member
May 17, 2011
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Lancaster, Ohio, United States
^^ exactly what he said lol

Also forgot to mention when using speed density you don't have to worry about poping intercooler piping off
The car will still run but for some reason won't build boost lol

If your lucky you will find a vpc for 300
Then you got to get some sort of piggyback fuel management ...probably find a safc2 for 150 used
Now you'll need a wideband to tune with...another 150 if your luckily

You can find complete maf pro systems for about 500 (IIRC)
Then get a wideband for 150

So each system cost ruffly the same but the maf pro IIRC has more tuning capabilities then a vpc/safc combo
I opted for vpc due to I didn't like the idea of hooking a laptop to my car whenever I want to tune it

All prices are ruff estimates on used units

If I stated any false info let me know
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
I see a lot of advice being given by people that have never built a "reliable high power 7m "....

My suggestion on this is listen to people that have actually achieved the goal required and ignore all the hearsay.