Using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil

Supra5MGTE

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Nov 11, 2005
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Very true. At my work the "slick idiots" try putting PureOnes in a regular purolator box.... ya right. I check everything.

JJ- Do you know the flow in GPM of our supras or typical Toyotas?
 

Eriol

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Mar 31, 2005
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jetjock said:
What Nick said. I don't know the filter orientation on an Intrepid but if it's not vertical up the ADBV is important. That's one nice think about the Supra.

WIX uses the better quality silicone ADBV (as does PureOne) but you could've gotten a bad one. It happens so I wouldn't condem WIX too quickly as they have an otherwise excellent reputation.

I remind everyone they should open the box while in the store and examine the filter no matter what brand they buy. Filter manufacturing is a high speed automated process and I've seen them with bad crimps, missing ADBVs, metal chips, bad threads, missing or deformed center tubes, on and on. Some scumbags will also swap a more expensive filter into a cheap box and leave it for you to buy. I've even heard of people who bought used filters that'd been drained, cleaned, and then returned to places like Walmart. So eyeball the thing right there in the store, don't wait until you get home or even worse, put it on your garage shelf and wait a few months.

It is mounted at an angle -- don't remember exactly offhand, but somewhere around 30-45 degrees off vertical.

I'm not condeming Wix, but I'd rather not chance more oil-less starts like that. I was somewhat curious if anyone else had had the same experience.
 

bobiseverywhere

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Apr 1, 2005
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I have almost read everypost in this thing through

I personally want to know what people have to say about this as i have not see this aspect to our oil choice discussed yet.

Most of us have Turbo's

This heat generating oil killing monster under our hoods

I have looked at allot of the links and understand about the Nascar thing but those are New engines without turbos and new Technology. Also they rebuild those engine after almost every race what they need to do have have done is use and oil and an engine that only needs to last how ever long they are driving that race. It is no way to gauge what we need here in the real world

We are trying to find a compromise between Old tech from 1985 when the 7M was probably concived if not earlier. And use modern technology oils. That have had generaly less and less additives in them since that time for emmisions readsons. Just like the issue with leaded and unleaded Gas

either why i am getting off point

What properties are we looking for in oil on a turbo Engine. For Example Formula 1 of the old days when they had Turbos on there cars. they were looking at oils that would last the race and the extreme tempatures from the turbos

Our engines might not create extreme tempuratures for our oil but the turbo does.

I am no expert but as i understand it exreme heat will break down oil.

so someone Posibly jetjock please explain further about the use of the oils and there thermal breakdown as well. I still have trouble understanding your 0W idea since to me that means less thermal protection for the oil
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I think a better way to approach this would be to list the common oils/viscosities that in no way should be used in a 7M and why not.

While a lot of the Oils and Weights may not be ideal most won't hurt the motor.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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JJ: Most people don't/won't read this is what's behind my suggestion.

Sort of a set of Cliff Notes on what NOT to use if there are any products/weights that are totally wrong for a 7M.
 

suprageezer

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Aug 27, 2005
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I think if you listen to what JetJock is saying your going to learn allot. I figure since they have been using turbos and superchargers on aircraft engines for many many years. I would imagine having to have the right oil is a matter of life and death since if you have oil issues you cant just pull over to the side of the road. If those of you who are worried about the oil in your turbos look toward th aircraft engine specs you'll find your questions were answered many years ago. One thing I did find at sites where they sell Aircraft Grade Oils is many of them are straight weights, some are 15-50 and some are 20-50 so as you can see there are many different oils to select from. I saw that some oils came premixed with Additives made by Aircraft manufacturers. I suggest some good research to find what oils are best suited for Aircraft Turbo Charged Engines and would apply that to the Supra and see if Oil issues become a non issue. I added some links just to see what offered by Aircraft Oil Suppliers
Rick

http://www.pikeoilco.com/w100.htm
www.aeroshell.com
www.exxonmobil.com/lubes/aviation
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9000654&contentId=7000706
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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JJ: No I'm asking you to impart some knowledge that will otherwise go unheeded as trust me on this most people won't bother following your links to educate themselves....

Sad as it is in this day and age people prefer to be spoonfed information rather than seek it out themselves as they believe education stopped when they left school.

I'm not bagging on anyone just trying to get some solid real information into the forum instead of 3rd hand regurgitated hearsay.

If I were on the same Continent I'd be more than happy to run some free clinics covering the basics that are so lacking these days as a lot of the younger generation can easily spec a 1000 hp build on paper but when asked to Gap a set of rings or to measure a crank assembly for bearings have no idea.

I have 30+ years of general information relating to performace builds in my mind but on specifics such as Oil Choice I'll always ask someone such as yourself specifics as you have taken the time to educate yourself to a degree I just don't have time to achieve.

Knowledge is a great thing but if you don't do anything with it it's next to useless and this is why I jump into so many threads if I know an answer to a question not to appear as a knowitall or some sort of Net Hero.
(I know sometimes it's a bit smacking your had against a brick wall but even if it helps one person that's fine by me)
(Well you've converted me I won't be changing so frequently)
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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JJ: There ya go!

You can take the lycra and underwear on the outside off and hang up the cape for the day! ;)

(I try to keep my posts short enough so people don't get the ADD thing happening and wander off)
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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JJ: I tend to waffle on a bit but found fairly early on very few people will read and prefer to scan a page so most of it goes unread.

I also tend to break a post up into samll paragraphs for this reason.

As I said if it helps one person I'm happy and the rep system is a great indicator of what people think.
(glad you reconsidered and came back)
 

evil_shenron

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Aug 12, 2005
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santa maria
What is a good dino oil to break in my built motor with? it has ross .020 over pistons, stock rods, clevite bearings, all arp hardware, mhg, and a nice sp61gt dbb that will be goin on soon. it will be a daily driver too. should i go with a 10-30w or should i go with a 15-40w?
 

88SupraTurbo

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Apr 17, 2005
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so basically your saying the the mobil 1 15w-50 that i just put in my engine is absolute crap and i should change it asap? and that a 0w-40 and a 20w-40 turn out the same when warmed up? but the 0w-40 is better because it is thinner for startup? how come when i was running 10w-30 i was noticing that i was burning alot more of it off/ loosing it through the turbo along with the blue smoke but i dont when im running 15w-50? confusion with a little bit of understanding...
 

Nick M

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Sad as it is in this day and age people prefer to be spoonfed information rather than seek it out themselves as they believe education stopped when they left school.
And even then, it often still wont sink in.

7 pages of oil education. Wow. SF sucks.