Using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
I don't know... I agree a lot of "engineering" goes into oil viscosity for engines. I agree 10W-30 would give you better "fuel economy" compared to 15w-40. However, what's good for one thing isn't always good for another. If you put 0W-30 in your axle it'll give you better fuel economy... but see what will happen to the gears... that's why we run 80-90. I think that's an extreme anology of the viscosity in a motor. Car companies are trying to meet CAFE. company average fuel economy and they're in the business of SELLING CARS; don't forget that. So I tend to take what the car companies say with a grain of salt. if I bought a brand new car tomorrow that said 5-20... Fine... I'll run 5-20 in it probly for 100K then go to 5-30 at that point. Another thing to remember... a motor with 150K has more wear than a new motor. so If they call for 5w-20 and 150K later you still think you need to run 5-20... you're agreeing if you took the motor apart it'll have the same tolerances and specs as it did when new, which is BS. so as the car gets older it gets more wear and loses lubrication protection. And... Pressure is resistance to flow... so if you run 15-40 in it @ 150K... it'll make up some of the wear restoring factory PSI/lubrication. I do agree 20W-50 is very thick for "today's" engines. Another thought... if 10W-30 was "the perfect viscosity oil" why don't the diesels that drive thousands of miles everyday recomend 0-30? they drive for a living, think how much money they'd save on fuel costs! If they could save some fuel by running a thinner oil I'm sure they'd probably do it. Even a 2006 Cummins Dodge, duramax chevy and ford powerstroke call for 15w-40. So to be honest with you... I think 10-30 is the best "compromise" oil weight. the engine engineers see that it's enough protection so the motor won't burn up (and wear is "probly calculated") and fuel is being saved. Look at European cars... they're made with tight tolearances... and they call for 0-40 or 5-40. and gas is $8/gallon over there... so i'm sure saving fuel would be on their priorty list. But one thing seperates europe from america... They keep a car 2-3x's longer than the average american. And they drive HARD. I was just over there this summer visting family. My cousin is a Engineer over there and he runs thick ass oil in his turbo Pegot. So if we had to motors off the factory floor and filled one with 5-20 and the other with 15w-40 and drove them hard as hell through the mountains of europe at sustained speeds over 120mph daily I'll bet my money on the 15w-40 motor. Why? thicker oil has more protection... can't aruge that. As long as it's not "to thick". Why don't we run 0-20 in our bearings to save on fuel??? b/c the oil isn't strong enough. But some RWD's use 80-90 for the axle and it also lubes the rear wheel bearings. As for changing oil every 3K or 3 months I agree that is BS. In europe most cars recomend 1yr/10K miles (I converted KM to miles). Dino or Syn. I think the best thing to do is LOOK at your oil to see if it needs changed. I've seen so many differnt shades of BLK oil, I could probly tell you when the oil needs changed by looking at it. Granted, the BEST way of knowing when is oil analysis. But for the average joe... why not look at the oil carefully. if at 4K it looks clean... why change it? My brothers Trans Am has that GM oil change light system and it'll come on about every 4,500. and the oil looks clean as a whistle. my 1984 supra FSM says to look at the oil to see if it's in need of changing! How many manuals say that?! the 1984 Supra FSM recomended Visc chart says for temps over 80F 10W-50 or 20W-50. I wish I could put this chart up here for people to see. I never looked at it til now.
 
Last edited:

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
For some reason I'm really enjoying this thread. JJ- where do you recomend I start studying up on oils? what brand makes a 0-30 oil? what do you think about the 0W-40 type oils? like rotella syn.
 

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
bob the oil guy has a timken bearing machine tester. he has videos of a few oils he tests out and then posts the pics of the bearings so you can actually see the wear. granted it's not a NASA project, but i think it's a cool little test. I noticed that the Rotella and Delo had much less wear compared to most the other oils.. including Syn Mobil 1 (10-30). Which I find suprising.

I also read on bob's site that the oil "quality" has fluxuated with the few past API ratings. SM being i guess another "bad" rating... lowering the additives etc. while SL allows for more additives. Least that's what I gathered. I also found out Rotella is availabe in 10W-30. Might have to look into that.
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Mar 30, 2005
10,588
10
38
Around
i normally run 10w30 in my car. i've been wondering what the hype was about the 15w50 mobile 1 syn, so i bought some. its time i changed my oil anyway. i doubt 3-4k miles on this oil will kill my motor. it's all in the name of experimentation for me. i just had to know.

like i said, my normal oil of choice is mobile 1 10w30 synthetic. and i'll probably go back to that when i change my oil again...

-shaeff
 

Jspec7m88

New Member
Dec 3, 2005
1,583
0
0
Nappy City
Every car that I've ever owned, I've used 10W-30...but when I first got the Supra, I ran 10W-30 Full Synthetic...after she developed RK(or at least I think it did)...I am running Castrol Full Synthetic 15W-40.:) Seems to work okay for the time being;)
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
i run 20w-50 non synthetic in my motor..








rod knock :(

before rod knock i ran 4 qts of 10w-40 castrol, and 1qt of lucas oil treatment. w/ a FRAM Toughgard filter
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jspec7m88

New Member
Dec 3, 2005
1,583
0
0
Nappy City
NDBoost said:
i run 20w-50 non synthetic in my motor..








rod knock :(

before rod knock i ran 4 qts of 10w-40 castrol, and 1qt of lucas oil treatment. w/ a FRAM Toughgard filter

Aww...another RK'er...I'm running 15W-40 because of RK, too.
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
15w-40 bah thats for pussies. Its all about the 20w-50 haha, 40+psi on cold start. Sad thing is i def think my Bearings are on their last limb i cant get passed 25psi on full gas @3k rpm on a warm motor :(
 

Jspec7m88

New Member
Dec 3, 2005
1,583
0
0
Nappy City
Well when I start it up cold...It sits on 40..and then once it's warmed up, sitting at idle, is at about 15...and when I'm driving it's usually around 25-30. I'm happy for now. :)
 

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
Read the "shear" section on bob is the oil guy. I got schooled. I drained out the oil in my Turbo 5M today for the first time. It had 10w-30 dino Valvoline for break in. I changed it hot, that stuff was like WATER!!! I dumped in 15w-40 Rotella and a PureOne oil filter (love purones). I found no chunks though.. thats good for a brand new motor. I found last night at about 3am, a guy with a LS1 GTO did some Oil anyalysis comparing Amsoil 0-30 vs rotella 15-40. The amsoil anyalysis had more wear particles than the rotella. there was also more miles on the rotella than amsoil. Heres the linky:
http://www.rotella.com/ubbthreads/s...er=2359&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
 

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
i put 15w-40 rotella in my 5M turbo car which is NOT a daily driver. the machine shop told me to use 20w-50. It's a custom built motor with racing in mind. I could give a rat's rear-end less if I save fuel.... i put 720cc injectors in it. and the reason the LS1 oil analysis caught my attention is b/c my brother has a '01 LS1 Trans am. I don't care if my oil is blue and smells like strawberry's, i just want a good oil at a decent price. so if it's syn or not doesn't bother me. I understand synthetics are better by nature, b/c they're "ENGINEERED TO BE BETTER", but I have to question that... and what you say about the oil filters is true. I already know that. the oil filter I use on my 5/7ms and 3VZ have a 12-14psi differential bypass valve. that's pretty high. Some filters have like a 5psi bypass. I originally thought pureones were more restrictive, but i did some more research and apparently they might actually flow more than a regular purolator. they have more material is why I think. Either way... bang for the buck... I like Purolator filters, espeically the pureone.
 

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
Wix (napa gold) are good filters. I never got around to buying one for my appliction to see where they put the bypass at. From what you're saying it's at the threaded part right? FYI: ford speced out a threaded bypass for the SHO motor. so it's gotta be critical. Next time im at napa I'll buy a gold filter so I can cut it open and compare them for my application.

Apparently Wix reveals tech data such as Beat ratio and flow and nominal particle rating. But wix does not reveal their SAE J806 %, but purolator does; 98%. I plan on cutting each filter open and making some measurements of which one has more media, bypass location etc. the napa gold filter is $5.79 while the PureOne is $5.88. so Price is not a deciding factor.

JJ- What are your feelings on running a "larger" filter? They make a tall version of our toyota filter.... (L20195). Amazingly in the wix.... they say the flow is the same for both our factory short filter and the "taller" filter. 7-9GPM. I'm just guessing the short version is closer to 7 and the taller is closer to 9 lol.

I was just on bob is the oil guy forum searching wix vs pure One. Comes down to 1 has a better design, the other filters better. One guys said they ran an oil test with a Pureone and 20w-50 in 50F weather and only under initial start did it bypass just like other filters and it flowed fine. So most the guys on there recomened wix in the winter for cold climates, and PureOne in the summer. So for me in Fl... pure one year round! lol people on there also noticed wix filters generally have a lower bypass PSI rating than purolator or OEM spec. This is all from what I read on BITOG forum.
 
Last edited:

Eriol

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
308
0
0
Indianapolis
I am not an oil professor, nor have I analyzed any filters.

That said, I have only run a Wix/Napa Gold filter once, with poor results. I usually run Mobil 1/K&N filters, but I decided to save a few bux and try a Napa Gold filter one time in my Intrepid -- whenever I would let it sit for a couple of days (because I was driving the Supra), it would clatter something awful every time I started it up (like there was no oil in the engine for a couple of seconds).

After I went back to Mobil 1, I haven't had that problem since. This time around I'm running a PureOne filter, and it also doesn't have that problem.

Maybe that filter was an exception of some kind, but I'm not going to take a chance on Wix again to find out.

For oil I run Mobil 1 10w30.

jetjock said:
Ah, I see. I thought this was a daily driver. Well, you made a good choice in Rotella if you wanted a quality oil at a good price but it's far from optimum for racing. Fuel ecomony aside, that oil will cost you horsepower.

PureOne is tough to beat for the price but I feel WIX is better, if only for the threaded bypass. It's true the bigger a filter the better it'll flow for a given filtration rating. Simply a case of more surface area. Since PureOnes come in various sizes it might be OK but they still flow poorly compared to other filters of the same size so not the best choice for a race motor. A great filter for normal use though, other than the dome end bypass. And yes, your bypass delta/p is higher than usual so it'll help. (If you didn't live in a warm climate it even might help to blow the filter or gasket out ;). Still, best to let that thing warm up a bit before seriously getting on it.

Syns *are* engineered to be better. Learn how they're made and what's different between them and dino. Basic chemistry alone proves it but that aside they've been run in aviation turbine engines for years before they came along for cars. It's where the ester basestock technology used in an oil like Redline came from. Syns are good stuff but I agree: expensive, overkill for many applications, and almost criminal when changed too often. I use them mainly because I go very long OCIs.
 

Supra5MGTE

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
421
0
0
Tampa, FL
I just called purolator for some beta and flow specs on 2 filters.. the supra OEM short guy and the taller one. They wouldn't give me any beta specs or flow data. He did give me "engineering's" number so i'll try that. I don't like using or testing anything that's not widely available. IE napa, purolator. Baldwin is a PITA to find.. i'll put it in the crapsoil pile of "hard to attain" so I don't mess with it.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,894
38
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
whenever I would let it sit for a couple of days (because I was driving the Supra), it would clatter something awful every time I started it up (like there was no oil in the engine for a couple of seconds).
It probably doesn't have an antidrain back valve.