I finally got around to changing my thermostat housing and was going to replace my broken BVSV valve but ended up breaking the one I bought lol. After I replaced my housing my car decided to not start up. I was cranking it and it wouldn't fire up then everything just shut off I also heard a very short psshh sound, now when I try to start the car or even lock the doors everything switches off the dome light, dash lights, etc and I have to remove the negative battery terminal to get power again but it will switch off if I try to do anything. I don't get how this happens after I change a thermostat housing unless it's a timing issue but I am pretty sure I put the CPS back in the same position as before because I marked it. I would have checked the fuses but we are getting a strong cold front here in Houston and I was freezing my ass off and it is very windy.
Try to start up and everything shuts off, electrical
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
Check for blown fuses and check the small wire on the positive battery terminal.
Also make sure everything was plugged in.
Also make sure everything was plugged in.
I checked all of the fuses and none of them are blown, checked the engine bay and kick panel fuse boxes and none of them are blown I did notice the ignition fuse I believe looked off center, so I am looking for some extra fuses to replace it with.
The fuse turned out to be fine could it possibly be a relay? When I turn the key I hear a loud click where the fuse box is.
Tried jumping the car and it was struggling to crank it started cranking slower and slower each time and the lights dimmed along with it. I am thinking it is a bad cell in the battery.
Have battery tested at local autoparts store
If battery test fine then i would suggest looking at main engine grounds and power wires. I dont mean just look at them lol get a multimeter and resistance check the wiring.
20+ yrs does a number to wiring
If battery test fine then i would suggest looking at main engine grounds and power wires. I dont mean just look at them lol get a multimeter and resistance check the wiring.
20+ yrs does a number to wiring
Tested the battery and they said it was good, they charged it up for half an hour, not a full charge, and I took it home and tried to start the car and same thing happened. Loud click and everything shuts off. Is it normal to hear liquid swishing around?
My old thermostat housing had a broke bolt for the piece that covers the thermostat itself and connects to the radiator. I only disconnected and touched the O2 Sensor cable, CPS, and all of the cables that connect to the thermostat housing. Maybe I connected one of the sensor cables to the wrong sensor? because those are just little metal bars that stick out. I will look into getting new terminal cables too.
TSRM Page BE-13 Take a look at that, it's in the driver's kickpanel. Pay particular attention to item #14, which is the power circuit breaker. This sort of resets after a time, and can be manually reset py pressing something smallish into a hole in the center.Doat;1902102 said:
If this is triggering, then you are drawing too much power somewhere, probably a short circuit. Take a look at those wires that you were dealing with. (Mine sometimes trips if I am adjusting the power seat at the same time as I'm using the auto up/down power window, which is how I found it.)
I may go out tonight and re connect the cables I touched and check out that fuse, the only thing really stopping me is the darkness and cold weather.
psshh cold weather? try coming up here to wisconsin! lol
good luck, i hate those electrical problems! PITA!
good luck, i hate those electrical problems! PITA!
I tried pushing something inside of that breaker fuse using a toothpick and didn't feel anything click, so I removed it and leaving it out for awhile. I reconnected a few of the cables I could easily reach with the negative terminal off of the battery and it still shut everything off when I tried starting the car.
Make sure that both cables are tight where they connect to: The + cable at the starter, and the - cable at the block.
It was already suggested, but you should replace both if they are the originals. They do go bad, and your problem
sounds exactly like an intermittent loss of connection that happens when a load is placed on it.
It was already suggested, but you should replace both if they are the originals. They do go bad, and your problem
sounds exactly like an intermittent loss of connection that happens when a load is placed on it.
Yea they are originals I believe, so it would be good to replace the battery terminals then huh. I'll get some new ones tomorrow morning but for now what can I do to test my cables?
Well, I don't mean just the terminals, I mean the cables themselves as well.
As for testing, I believe it's a voltage drop test that you need to try:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qfaLy-DS3w
As for testing, I believe it's a voltage drop test that you need to try:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qfaLy-DS3w
