When I put my engine back in mine I was baffled that it was cranking but wouldn't start. It was my cps. After I pulled it out, lined everything back up, she fired right up as soon as I hit the key.
Try to start up and everything shuts off, electrical
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
Yea I am pretty sure that is why, when I did my head gasket I lined up the CPS with TDC and when she first fired up I just sat there in amazement that I did this.
Yup, I can lock the doors, roll the windows up and down, headlights, etc. and when I try to start it cranks but the timing is off so it's not firing up properly. I'll be removing spark plug number 1 to set it to TDC then I can adjust the CPS accurately and fire her up then change the transmission and differential fluid finally.
another thing, my damn intake adapter broke on my AFM my K&N intake filter caught the chassis as I was removing it and snapped the old plastic piece. I will temporarily glue it back together until I can find a replacement plastic piece.
and she is alive going to get some tranny fluid at my friend's shop and time the car while I am there. Thanks everyone as always you guys are the best.
Timing is off, I tried adjusting it but I maxed it out turning it clockwise, which what do I turn the gear head of the CPS to let me go further clockwise?
So turning it clockwise might give it more advance? I want to remove the turbo intake and try starting it up that way but it would make it run like crap huh?
when I turn the CPS clockwise it moves toward the numbers on the block right now the marker is to the left of the numbers and when I turn the CPS clockwise it moves the marker toward the numbers. What I need to know is which way do I turn the CPS gear so I can accurately time it, seems like it is a tooth or two off.
Whichever way you need to turn the CPS's case, that means you need to install the cps shaft(gear) a tooth in the opposite direction.
Sweet, I was thinking about it then I always got stuck at how exactly the CPS works when it connects to the cam lol
Well after trying to get it right I decided to just set the motor to tdc and go from there odd thing is it starts up fine then when it warms up it struggles to the point where it dies. There are also three codes, 21, 24, 31 in that order. Which I have found to be the 02 sensor and afm connection, my intake filter broke off of the afm could that be the reason
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That doesn't explain the O2 sensor. Check for broken wires. The AFM does expect laminar airflow through it, so something busted could do something bad, however given the design of the stock air filter, it should be able to deal with that. Again, I'd say check for damage to the wiring harness.
The car is running like crap, I checked the wires and reconnected everything still runs like crap and I assume it's still throwing those codes. Is there some kind of reset I can do or do I have to replace the AFM, which I need to do anyway since the filter adapter piece broke on mine, and the O2 sensor?
EDIT: Just read more on this and will be trying out the pull the EFI fuse for 10 seconds to clear the codes, I'll see what happens after that.
EDIT: Just read more on this and will be trying out the pull the EFI fuse for 10 seconds to clear the codes, I'll see what happens after that.
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Sorry I forgot to update this thread the past few days went from being great to kind of rough, not with the car other than the error code issues.
I checked everything, reconnected everything, cleaned up the connections with a toothbrush and 90% isopropyl and the car still idles rough like it will idle ranging between 2-300 rpms at times and sometimes it will stall. I am thinking about replacing the O2 sensor and AFM sensor and seeing if that solves the problem since removing the EFI fuse for 20 seconds didn't do anything. Is there a way I can check the connections to see if the connectors on the harness are bad or the connectors on the sensors themselves are bad? I am out of ideas on how to resolve this issue or find out the cause. The wiring harness doesn't look damaged and the connector prongs don't look damaged especially after I cleaned them.
I checked everything, reconnected everything, cleaned up the connections with a toothbrush and 90% isopropyl and the car still idles rough like it will idle ranging between 2-300 rpms at times and sometimes it will stall. I am thinking about replacing the O2 sensor and AFM sensor and seeing if that solves the problem since removing the EFI fuse for 20 seconds didn't do anything. Is there a way I can check the connections to see if the connectors on the harness are bad or the connectors on the sensors themselves are bad? I am out of ideas on how to resolve this issue or find out the cause. The wiring harness doesn't look damaged and the connector prongs don't look damaged especially after I cleaned them.