:1zhelp: Does anyone have a Torque Plate I can barrow so i can get my block bored out .40 over. Thanks ill pay for the shipping.
Pat
Pat
Torque Plate?
- Thread starter 927mgtepat
- Start date
I have a torque plate, but it is currently being rented out and there is another guy in line. I would be willing to rent it to you but it would probably be a month before it's available again.
Im glad i asked nosman when i did!!!! haha
I'll try to get the block work done asap so you can share the goodness!
I'll try to get the block work done asap so you can share the goodness!
You would have to remove everything from the head until you were left with a bare head. You would then have to find someone to drill 6 big holes in it to match up with the cylinders. I don't think it would work as well in practice as it does in theory though. I don't think it would be very strong when it was all said and done.
CryoSlash;931611 said:
you know whats funny?
I had never heard of anyone doing this before, but I had the idea myself since I had a spare 7M head. The machinist I talked to thought it was a ridiculous idea and wanted no part of it. Since then I've seen pics of one made from a head and heard several people mention doing it. I'm glad I didn't go through with having him work on my engine.. (got a working 1uz that I plan to run as-is)
some day I'll need to find a more modern machine shop with a friendlier machinist.
to IJ/nosman4: You could always fill in sections with hard blok or something to stiffen it, and even a relatively flimsy cut up head would be a significant improvement over having no torque plate.
on a tangent, if ridgidity is an issue...
Couldn't it be similarly problematic if the torque plate is MORE ridged than an intact head? Ideally the block should flex in exactly the same way.
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Here are some pics of a head Allan (DEFIANT7M) was having turned into a torque plate.
Here are some pics of a head Allan (DEFIANT7M) was having turned into a torque plate.
Mike: Can't see being more ridgid being a problem as long as you torque the studs correctly.
This actually brings up an interesting point.... where do you stop?
EVERYTHING that bolts to the outside of the block on an installed engine will deform the block slightly so do we take a fully assembled motor in to be bored?
How about coolant temp?
If you were being really anal about this you'd circulate coolant heated to operating temps to ensure the block is expanded to it's running condition....
and so on
See how ridiculous it all gets it's fine for F1 motors but for a 7M it's way overkill and not required at all.
For me I take the Block MHG Main and Head studs and the Cam belt tensioner install all of them to the correct torque along with the Tq Plate and punch the holes out.
This actually brings up an interesting point.... where do you stop?
EVERYTHING that bolts to the outside of the block on an installed engine will deform the block slightly so do we take a fully assembled motor in to be bored?
How about coolant temp?
If you were being really anal about this you'd circulate coolant heated to operating temps to ensure the block is expanded to it's running condition....
and so on
See how ridiculous it all gets it's fine for F1 motors but for a 7M it's way overkill and not required at all.
For me I take the Block MHG Main and Head studs and the Cam belt tensioner install all of them to the correct torque along with the Tq Plate and punch the holes out.
im still lookin for a torque so if anyone knows of anyone that has one that i may use please let me know (besides nosman4 because he has quite a few ppl watin already as it seems)
why steel? its suppose to be aluminum...
you want to make it out of the same material the head is made out of.
you want to make it out of the same material the head is made out of.
i always thought it was suppose to be the same material as the head... but i guess it doesnt matter. haha.
I got an aluminum one...
I got an aluminum one...
