tons of questions wanna build my 7m right the first time

[chefma70]

That makes two of us even though I have thought about a 1JZ. Its something about a 7M that keeps me wanting to prove people wrong when they bash it.

that make two of us.almost noboby has any respect for em.i wanna build it just to prove everybody wrong.and after the race tell em you got beat by a 7m.

i have 2600 in the savings.i plan on pulln the whole motor and doing a full build up this summer .With arps everything all new seals gaskets and bearings etc......

A few questions whats the difference between a 360 thrust bearing and ball bearing turbo.I have read the basics but want to hear real world reviews if you have tried both or have experience with both.

Is it a good idea to use stock rods with aftermarket pistons?arent 7mge rods forged?

what electronics will i need other than an apexi safc?

1.4 or 2 mm mhg (hks right?)

other than a basic bottle hone for my block. is it required to deck the block/head?

this is my parts list SO FAR i think i have everything.
earls oil cooler,rc 550's,fuelregulator kit,dm turbo mani,downpipe,turboelbow,intercooler+piping,bov,57trimct26(dm),apexi safc,boost gauge,walbro255 fp,fuel pressure gauge,air/fuel ratio gauge,MHG.i think thats it add me something if im missing something .

your advice is appreciated thanks.

 

[IwantMKIII]

all of these questions can be answered with a few simple search terms


I'll get you started:

1. More money
2. More money
3. Lots of reading up.
4. A second car
5. More money

edit:

6. Lots of time and patience

 

[Moy]

all of these questions can be answered with a few simple search terms


I'll get you started:

1. More money
2. More money
3. Lots of reading up.
4. A second car
5. More money

edit:

6. Lots of time and patience

something you forgot...

7. More money

 

[hvyman]

^1.2.3.5.6. x 3

machine work can be expensive and adds up really fast. ull most likely go with .020 over pistons which youll need to bore plus for a mhg you need to machine the block and head. valve job would be wise also make sure to get the block and head checked before anything so you dont spend money on useless parts.

your list as it is looks about 2600 maybe more.
skip the elbow get a full dp.
build your car at stock with the exception of pistons,rods, mhg etc then save and slowly add from there. going all out is gunna be pretty expensive.
the search is your friend.

 

[Moy]

That's true. I'm making an Excel spreadsheet of about 7 different vendors for parts (as listed on their websites) and showing who has the best prices for what parts. So far I'm at about 1700-2000 for parts alone. Machine work is probably going to be another 1000 at least. For what you want to do, it will probably be around 3000 for parts

 

[tomquacky]

can i get a copy of that spreadsheet when you get done with it?

 

[92nsx]

Who are you proving worng? Many members hare have strong running 7M. Also to make it right the first time, you will need around $6-8k just to build the lower end and the head Start there and let us know when you are finished with that stage of the build.

 

[Sside]

I just rebuilt my 7M, let me shoot out prices and what I did.... As for the machine work itself I payed 1800 bucks... I used the same crank (but polished) and same rods ( but reconditioned) with aftermarket but same quality as stock pistons 20 over..... I got a great deal from driftmotion on the pistons that came out to a total of 200$..... I had to buy another crank because mine was bad soo a member here cut me another great deal and sent me his and a new aisin oil pump for 300$.... Now were at 2,300.... I also decided I wanted good gaskets soo I went with stone engine gaskets that cost me 200$... Now were at 2,500$... After a blown head Gasket right before knock I decided another regular Head Gasket would not do..... I bought a cometic/titan motorsports metal headgasket 2.0 mm 86 mm bore 200$... So now were at 2,800$. I also wanted new oil squirters just to be safe so those came at about 80$ bucks from toyota. With that said, New oil pump, New oil squirters... Why not spend 60$ bucks on driftmotions softline? So I got that too... So 2,800$ plus 140$ is 2,940$.... I wanted a reliable street machine that would also be my dd and never see over 400 hp... I decided to go with ARP everything, arp rod bolts were 60$ and the I got an awesome deal of 100$ from a member on main studs... Now I am at 3,100$... I also needed bearings so those were about 100$.... So roughly 3,200 on just the block... I know I bought more things for it but I cnt think of it at the time, this should still help you get an idea of how much it costs to build a 7m capable of a little bit of power.... I got my stuff on great deals but if you end up paying regular price for some of this stuff assuming you cant find things this cheap then the cost might be close to 4,000 on just the block.... Not everyones builds are the same, it all depends on what you are going to be doing with the engine and what is right for you. I am sure that with patience you can find great deals like I did.... Good Luck!!!!

 

[tbcmorris]

Yeah I feel your lowballing the cost of building a srong motor...my was well ove 5. And slow66 is selling a built block...might as well grab that it will save you money plus he's awesome to deal with.

 

[suprarich]

That's true. I'm making an Excel spreadsheet of about 7 different vendors for parts (as listed on their websites) and showing who has the best prices for what parts.

That is a waste of time also. Send your "wish" list to each of the vendors and let them price out everything as a package deal. You are wasting your money buying off of someones website. Make a phone call or a few emails directly to the vendor and you can get much better pricing.

 

[92TealSupra]

If I were you I would wait 3 months. Keep reading on here. You will find the best combinations to make your engine. If you also find a good machine shop that helps the motor really run.. So make sure you're not going to Slow Joe's machine shop on the corner with a dermal to bore out cylinders.

If you read enough you will know what everything is, where to buy your items. I wouldn't jump into anything right away. If you want a rebuild with a little performance this is what I would do.

have the head machined, new valve stem seals, check valve guides, 3-angle valve grind.

have the block decked, new Oem pistons, rings, and have the crank checked. New bearing all the way around. All new gaskets on the motor as well. I would go with a HKS 1.2mm Head gasket with ARP Hed STUDS. Get ARp rod bolts, Arp Flywheel bolts as well. Make sure your Crank pulley is in good condition.

 

[Moy]

That is a waste of time also. Send your "wish" list to each of the vendors and let them price out everything as a package deal. You are wasting your money buying off of someones website. Make a phone call or a few emails directly to the vendor and you can get much better pricing.

I've thought about doing that, but didn't want to possibly waste someone's time, as I'm not ready to start a build quite yet. I'm pricing things out for future reference, but will call or email different vendors with a list of parts that I want when I do actually start everything. I should be getting the engine around the end of March-early April hopefully

 

[92nsx]

Send your "wish" list to each of the vendors and let them price out everything as a package deal.

LOL and make sure you send it to uncle Rich . I did and he gave me the best prices around on EVERYTHING!

 

[JDMMA70]

You can also save money if you assemble the block yourself, but it depends on how much you trust your skills to do that. Im going that route to save some money, but im having my father help me with it.

 

[Zer0DeGreeZ]

Hmm it seems theres alot of money being said that is needed to do a good build. Which in most aspects is true. but I find Titan motorsports has some really great prices on bottom end internals. I bought a remanufactured long block through local auto parts store for only 2400. i'm looking at 3k-4k for all the internals for the 7M-GTE from Titan. I may also purchase their race head for 3k, but other then a good turbo and manifolds thats everything you need to buld a strong stable engine.

Zer0

 

[the t3d]

once you figure out everything you need and want...you can also post up your list in the wanted section on here and SF.com. you can get some good deals and save alot of money. I DID!

-t3d

tehee

 

[92TealSupra]

once you figure out everything you need and want...you can also post up your list in the wanted section on here and SF.com. you can get some good deals and save alot of money. I DID!

-t3d

tehee

Very good idea. Also when you figure in all the stuff you need post that as well, so people can tell you if they've had issues with it, and maybe they found a better product to go with. Learn from other mistakes on here, not your own!

 

[cmdeoro]

I am buying parts for my block right now. Let me tell you the bills rack up pretty quickly.

 

[7Mboost]

^1.2.3.5.6. x 3

machine work can be expensive and adds up really fast. ull most likely go with .020 over pistons which youll need to bore plus for a mhg you need to machine the block and head. valve job would be wise also make sure to get the block and head checked before anything so you dont spend money on useless parts.

your list as it is looks about 2600 maybe more.
skip the elbow get a full dp.
build your car at stock with the exception of pistons,rods, mhg etc then save and slowly add from there. going all out is gunna be pretty expensive.
the search is your friend.

Stock rods and pistons are fine for just a 57 trim. If you plan to go bigger single, you should look into some Probe pistons and shot peen the stock rods.

Who are you proving worng? Many members hare have strong running 7M. Also to make it right the first time, you will need around $6-8k just to build the lower end and the head Start there and let us know when you are finished with that stage of the build.

Was about to say that thank you.

I just rebuilt my 7M, let me shoot out prices and what I did.... As for the machine work itself I payed 1800 bucks... I used the same crank (but polished) and same rods ( but reconditioned) with aftermarket but same quality as stock pistons 20 over..... I got a great deal from driftmotion on the pistons that came out to a total of 200$..... I had to buy another crank because mine was bad soo a member here cut me another great deal and sent me his and a new aisin oil pump for 300$.... Now were at 2,300.... I also decided I wanted good gaskets soo I went with stone engine gaskets that cost me 200$... Now were at 2,500$... After a blown head Gasket right before knock I decided another regular Head Gasket would not do..... I bought a cometic/titan motorsports metal headgasket 2.0 mm 86 mm bore 200$... So now were at 2,800$. I also wanted new oil squirters just to be safe so those came at about 80$ bucks from toyota. With that said, New oil pump, New oil squirters... Why not spend 60$ bucks on driftmotions softline? So I got that too... So 2,800$ plus 140$ is 2,940$.... I wanted a reliable street machine that would also be my dd and never see over 400 hp... I decided to go with ARP everything, arp rod bolts were 60$ and the I got an awesome deal of 100$ from a member on main studs... Now I am at 3,100$... I also needed bearings so those were about 100$.... So roughly 3,200 on just the block... I know I bought more things for it but I cnt think of it at the time, this should still help you get an idea of how much it costs to build a 7m capable of a little bit of power.... I got my stuff on great deals but if you end up paying regular price for some of this stuff assuming you cant find things this cheap then the cost might be close to 4,000 on just the block.... Not everyones builds are the same, it all depends on what you are going to be doing with the engine and what is right for you. I am sure that with patience you can find great deals like I did.... Good Luck!!!!

Do you know what paragraphs are? USE THEM!

 

[VooDoo]

I have right at 4k in just the motor machining, pistons, bearings, coatings, and balanced assembly. I made out like a champ and got a set of Crower rods free from my friend i got the car from. This is not even including the head work. THEN consider fuel upgrades. Another 600-1000 if you do it right and higher if you REALLY do it up. TURBO another grand. I/C ,pipes . This list will go on and on. I had no idea what I was getting into BUT in to far to stop now. $10,000 and still going. But my first build will be right and sound. Guys here make that seem like pocket change. Unless you money is flowing steady for this build you need to focus on a solid stock build with a 57 trim ct. You can still have a snappy quick car with respectable speeds. This is just my opinion for whatever its worth.


Good luck and keep researching. But try to search before you ask.