tired of cleaning my back bumper

[CRE]

That much oil?!

If it's not leaking and the coolant doesn't look like rotten pudding it's coming out the exhaust... whether you're seeing it or not.

 

[89nasupra]

it smokes some when i get on it and it not to running temp but i don't get on it often but i;m sure it is burning some. thanks for your help thought guys.

 

[kanji1jz]

piston rings could be leaking. you need to do a compression test and also a valve leak down test, even if the head had been reworked as you say. also check the valves themselves to see if it's just carbon build up that is letting oil into the cylinders or if it's the seals. hope this helps.

 

[figgie]

technically speaking

you could put the exhaust tip extending three feet further than the bumper. Won't make a difference as the wake produced by our cars is pretty significant.

black soot is usually that you are running rich all around.

 

[89nasupra]

that's what i'm thinking. the smoke is black and only when it's above 5000 rpm and i got my foot throught the fire wall.

 

[figgie]

that's what i'm thinking. the smoke is black and only when it's above 5000 rpm and i got my foot throught the fire wall.

full throttle?

no piggy backs or anything right?

Stock, the car runs REALLY REALLY RICH at the upper RPM bands at full throttle. That is definetly carbon soot and nothing to be concerned with.

If you were to read lambda. You would probably be seeing around .7 Lambda = around 10 AFR on the gasoline scale on a stock, non-tuned OEM system.

 

[89nasupra]

i was wondering if i would benifit from a SAFC 2 on a n/a car so i could adjust the afr.

 

[CRE]

My AFR was around 10.0 to 10.5 at WOT before tuning. I asked how often you floor it... still waiting. Unless you're constantly flooring it I doubt it's all from running rich. I'm still betting on oil.

The only place where tuning would effect the issue you're talking about here is at WOT.

 

[Facime]

fuel soot tends to be very black and dry powdery when built up. Oil soot is more on the brown side and is a bit stickier like a film. Im betting its a combination of both. Tired rings and untuned OEM ecu running rich. Nothing to worry about in the short run. If you take care of it and drive it easy and keep an eye on your oil level (put an extra quart above "full" in it too btw) and stay out of the higher RPM range it could last quite a while.

My 86.5 was burning a quart a tank like that and still ran great and probably would have for a long time.

 

[89nasupra]

CRE, i don't floor it often, it's n/a i know it's slow but i don't want everyone else to know it's slow...lol i keep it full of oil i never put over full but if you guys say its cool i'll start going a little over full. how can i tune the stock ecu for the fuel curve?

 

[Facime]

how can i tune the stock ecu for the fuel curve?

You cant. You have to use a piggyback like the SAFC to do that.

1 qt over is recommended by the SM oil gurus, do it.

 

[89nasupra]

thats what i'm getting after will that work and what's teh difference between the SAFC and the SAFC 2

 

[Facime]

more tune points and a slightly better interface if I remember correctly. Both are disco'd I think so unless you can find one used or sitting in backstock you are going to have get a neo.

 

[89nasupra]

will they work on a n/a car?? i was told in another forum that it wouldn't work on my car cause it's not turbo

 

[Facime]

go tell those guys on the other forum they are NOOBS. They wouldnt happen to have big "H"'s on their hoods and wings on the back of their front wheel drive cars would they? :nono: The turbo has nothing to do with it. All an AFC does is trick the stock ECU by changing the signal coming from the AFM. The ECU responds by adjusting the fuel accordingly (less or more based on the tricked signal). This can be done +/- 50% at any number of points in the RPM range.

That being said Im NOT suggesting you "fix" your problem using one. First off you need a wideband to properly tune it, and secondly it may be a bandaid approach if your rich condition is due to something needing repair (ie FPR out of whack, leaky injectors, resistance in the AFM signal line etc. weak spark, etc.).

For all you know you may just need some tune up parts, OR a complete rebuild. Im not inclined to speculate from here.

 

[89nasupra]

http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=503021

here is teh thread from teh "other forum" i was telling you about. i'm n/a supra in La.

 

[Facime]

Oh hmm. I didnt think about difference in the AFM. I will have to do some research on that. LOL, maybe Im the "noob".

 

[89nasupra]

lol..... i will start with changing the O2 and changing the plugs wires cap and rotor. i changed the fuel filter a month or so ago. can i change my mass air flow to the lexus one?

 

[CRE]

SAFC II supports Toyota VAFMs. The 7M-GE isn't on their install list, but there are plenty of others that use the same voltage signal (scaling's a bit different due to airflow capacity, but that's academic).

 

[CRE]

can i change my mass air flow to the lexus one?

Well, first off, neither you, nor the Lexus to which you are referring have a Mass Air Flow Sensor.

The N/A MKIII uses a VAF (Vane Air Flow) meter and the Turbo MKIII (and the Lexus, never can remember which one(s)) use a KVAF (Karman Vortex Air Flow) meter. There are some huge differences, but to keep it simple we'll just say that they're not cross compatible.

A MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor is a different ball of wax all together.


Look here for details: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf