Tire Shredder's MK2 7MGE budget NA screamer build thread
- Thread starter Tire Shredder
- Start date
ahhh those are always a good time I helped the other steve with a set of those in a junkyard. can anyone say seized?
thanks man
thanks man
thanks mark! let's hope I don't overlook anything and it runs well!!
here's an update for today:
rods are assembled and rings are on them, but #2 will need a rework.. It wasn't going together smoothly into the piston and then snagged the bushing on the rod end. it definatley needs to be replaced now. Off to the machine shop I go..
still made some progress today though. Tomorrow I plan to get a start on that other valve cover polishing.
checking the ring gap: they all turned out fine, no need to file any of them. I'm making sure it's 110mm deep in this pic.
lubed up
putting the rear main on with my SST lol
and used this sweet stuff to seal the plate.
the crank in, lubricated and torqued!
I think I'll put the pistons in when I have them all prepared, lots of work to do in the mean time! but one step closer..and I feel good knowing the bearing and ring tolerances are within spec!
Steve
here's an update for today:
rods are assembled and rings are on them, but #2 will need a rework.. It wasn't going together smoothly into the piston and then snagged the bushing on the rod end. it definatley needs to be replaced now. Off to the machine shop I go..
still made some progress today though. Tomorrow I plan to get a start on that other valve cover polishing.
checking the ring gap: they all turned out fine, no need to file any of them. I'm making sure it's 110mm deep in this pic.
lubed up
putting the rear main on with my SST lol
and used this sweet stuff to seal the plate.
the crank in, lubricated and torqued!
I think I'll put the pistons in when I have them all prepared, lots of work to do in the mean time! but one step closer..and I feel good knowing the bearing and ring tolerances are within spec!
Steve
I am having a hard time visualizing what you did to the piston/rod but being safe and having the ms look at is a good idea.
Is this your first bottom end? Did you read all the assembly tips Adjuster has in his section. I found a few of them quite helpful. One thing I wish I had done on my motor is use a little fine emery cloth on the bottom edge of the piston skirt. They will sometimes have rough edges there and can scratch the bores just going in.
Is this your first bottom end? Did you read all the assembly tips Adjuster has in his section. I found a few of them quite helpful. One thing I wish I had done on my motor is use a little fine emery cloth on the bottom edge of the piston skirt. They will sometimes have rough edges there and can scratch the bores just going in.
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weezl, yeah it definatley needs to be reamed and or replaced..the bushing that is.
Yes, this is my first bottom end I have ever done but I have read about the processes for a couple years, have a general understand of how these things work and have the TSRM in hand. I'm studying to be an engineer so I am capable of thinking analytically...so this is actually really fun!
thanks for the tip, I didn't remember it from adjuster's tips but I actually did have the foresight to do this myself, aswell as smooth the top of the pistons. Keep the tips coming! any little thing that's overlooked can make this thing perform poorly or not at all!
Yes, this is my first bottom end I have ever done but I have read about the processes for a couple years, have a general understand of how these things work and have the TSRM in hand. I'm studying to be an engineer so I am capable of thinking analytically...so this is actually really fun!
thanks for the tip, I didn't remember it from adjuster's tips but I actually did have the foresight to do this myself, aswell as smooth the top of the pistons. Keep the tips coming! any little thing that's overlooked can make this thing perform poorly or not at all!
did some painting yesterday. all the POR-5 stuff (iron/steel) parts that I wanted to paint is done. just some more aluminum coloured paint left to do, and polish the second valve cover, which I intend on doing today. feels good to know that everything metal on the engine should never rust again, and look good for a long time!
crank scraper and remaining parts due mid next week. head will be done (valve job, cleaning, shaving and assembly) by monday. getting closer!
crank scraper and remaining parts due mid next week. head will be done (valve job, cleaning, shaving and assembly) by monday. getting closer!
waiting for parts 
will be assembled this weekend, with many pics!
installation starting august 1st
will be assembled this weekend, with many pics!installation starting august 1st
you're not kidding!
I still have a valvecover that needs polishing! it's only half done! just not motivated right now...I really cherish the few hours of relaxation I have when when I get home from work. I've just be doing small steps at a time so I don't get too frustrated.
I'm past the motivated point with the whole project...it's dragged on too long. It's in the "I want results" stage.
I still have a valvecover that needs polishing! it's only half done! just not motivated right now...I really cherish the few hours of relaxation I have when when I get home from work. I've just be doing small steps at a time so I don't get too frustrated.
I'm past the motivated point with the whole project...it's dragged on too long. It's in the "I want results" stage.
I had a long conversation with my machinist tonight and he agrees with the break in method I have chosen...
so....since I talked to him, that must mean I picked something up??? yes...I did!
the piston and rod are assembled back together. He was able to fix the problem caused by the circlip rubbing a little bit. He did this by running a ream through the piston pin bore, just enough to remove the burr. everything fits beautifully now!
I got the head back!! cams are in, valves are shimmed, 3 angle valve job and shaved 35 thou...according to my calculations, I should be right at the target 10.5:1 ratio, and still be non-interference (but only just). The thing is ready to bolt on!
pics!
and a couple more port shots that I am so proud of. the machinist says I did a great job.
so....since I talked to him, that must mean I picked something up??? yes...I did!
the piston and rod are assembled back together. He was able to fix the problem caused by the circlip rubbing a little bit. He did this by running a ream through the piston pin bore, just enough to remove the burr. everything fits beautifully now!
I got the head back!! cams are in, valves are shimmed, 3 angle valve job and shaved 35 thou...according to my calculations, I should be right at the target 10.5:1 ratio, and still be non-interference (but only just). The thing is ready to bolt on!
pics!
and a couple more port shots that I am so proud of. the machinist says I did a great job.
Poodles;1085984 said:
first of all, I'm going to use cheap 5w30 and a quality filter. that's a personal choice...there is plenty of info on this all over supramania so I won't explain why I came to this conclusion.
I will start the car and let it warm up, take it around town at relatively low speeds (2nd and third gear) with moderate to high load on the rings, revving up to about the 4k range...no WOT and no high rpm....but high loads and moderate rpm, without lugging the engine. I will decelerate using engine breaking to help remove the metal slurry that will accumulate on the cylinder walls/rings.
I will change the oil after the first 20 minutes of driving, another after 150km and another after 500.
all of this with the goal to wear the rings into the cylinder walls while the crosshatch in the walls is still effective, with lower rpm and heat to help avoid the glazing of the walls/rings.
IJ.;1086007 said:Single 30 weight would be better Steve
(it's ALL oil with no gloop to make it multivis)
mono grade just straight up scares me IJ. But I haven't done it yet, so I'm all ears.
Your break-in process is almost exactly what I do!
If you have a compression tester, I'd recommend that you do a compression test before starting your engine (and record all those numbers). Then in a few hundred klicks, if you're wondering how well your rings have broken in, you can do it again.
If you have a compression tester, I'd recommend that you do a compression test before starting your engine (and record all those numbers). Then in a few hundred klicks, if you're wondering how well your rings have broken in, you can do it again.
Tire Shredder;1086010 said:
Nothing to be scared of Steve,
You won't be jazzing the throttle when it's cold so no problems there and you're not going for maximum load on the fresh engine so again no dramas.
I use it every build.