Tire Shredder's MK2 7MGE budget NA screamer build thread
- Thread starter Tire Shredder
- Start date
supra-b;1109127 said:
electrical is the only pain in the ass...probably similar connections made. I haven't seen a 2J's wiring layout though, so I can't really comment.
no fabrication or custom parts required for this swap though.
as a side note, I did another oil change tonight (3rd now I think?) and everything looks good, no metal filings or funny colours in it. The car is running great now that it is mostly broken in. tons of fun to drive! traction in 1st is an issue now!!! can't wait to get some tweaking in.
hey guys, just a quick update!
I installed one of these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=DER-16749&N=700+400434+115&autoview=sku
to install the adrenaline motorsports dual fan kit (super nice!) phil bridges pic here:
the fans are nice and quiet and move a ton of air...much better setup than my shroud less mechanical fan! the rad does a fine job at idle cooling it...but about every 5 minutes the fans will come on for around 30 seconds to do their work. The water temp gauge stays rock solid no matter what I put the car through!
I tried putting the cams back to the stock location and noticed and improvement. I threw another 3 degrees at it in the retarded direction....well...the car goes like hell now! the thing is bringing a smile to my face!!!
it still has plenty of low end grunt, way more tha nthe 5m ever had. I can drive around at 1500rpm no problem without the engine lugging. it's nice to get some decent fuel milage now and then! anyways, because I still have lots of low end torque and it feels like the shift point is around 5500 now (you can REALLY feel the ACIS kick in now!!) I might retard the cams a bit more and see what happens.
this is a great start! if I get it a little better every night, a trip to the track may be in order!
I'd like to play with increasing overlap aswell. not sure if I should advance the exhaust side to do that, or retard the intake more...any tips from those that have gone through the process before? I'm trying to do some reading but good info is hard to find online.
Thanks guys! if things go well, I may have some video for you tomorrow.
I installed one of these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=DER-16749&N=700+400434+115&autoview=sku
to install the adrenaline motorsports dual fan kit (super nice!) phil bridges pic here:
the fans are nice and quiet and move a ton of air...much better setup than my shroud less mechanical fan! the rad does a fine job at idle cooling it...but about every 5 minutes the fans will come on for around 30 seconds to do their work. The water temp gauge stays rock solid no matter what I put the car through!
I tried putting the cams back to the stock location and noticed and improvement. I threw another 3 degrees at it in the retarded direction....well...the car goes like hell now! the thing is bringing a smile to my face!!!
it still has plenty of low end grunt, way more tha nthe 5m ever had. I can drive around at 1500rpm no problem without the engine lugging. it's nice to get some decent fuel milage now and then! anyways, because I still have lots of low end torque and it feels like the shift point is around 5500 now (you can REALLY feel the ACIS kick in now!!) I might retard the cams a bit more and see what happens.
this is a great start! if I get it a little better every night, a trip to the track may be in order!
I'd like to play with increasing overlap aswell. not sure if I should advance the exhaust side to do that, or retard the intake more...any tips from those that have gone through the process before? I'm trying to do some reading but good info is hard to find online.
Thanks guys! if things go well, I may have some video for you tomorrow.
WOW!! unfortunately tomorrow is the first day of school for us youngins but on ly ONE year left:evil2: otherwise i would be up all night reading all of these pages!! I happen to have a rebuilt 7mge and w58 and have been very interested in putting them safely into an mk2!! If you havent already it would be great if you could post some info basically on how i could simply put this engine into the car without all of the rebuilding engine parts. VERY nice job and i look forward to hearing from you!!
If you advance the intake you will get more power down low but it will run out of breath pretty quick at higher revs, & retarding the exhaust will increase your top end.
Try advancing the intake by 1 cam degree & retard the exhaust by one thereby giving you an increase in overlap by 2 cam degrees (4 crank) & see how it goes.
Your idle will suffer as the overlap increases.
Dont forget to reset your ignition timing each time you alter the exhaust cam position.
Try advancing the intake by 1 cam degree & retard the exhaust by one thereby giving you an increase in overlap by 2 cam degrees (4 crank) & see how it goes.
Your idle will suffer as the overlap increases.
Dont forget to reset your ignition timing each time you alter the exhaust cam position.
The cam update is good to hear.
You should be able to do way better than 16.1@85mph.
I would expect that once it's dialed in right, you should get more like low 15's to high 14's.
I'm excited for you, man.
You should be able to do way better than 16.1@85mph.
I would expect that once it's dialed in right, you should get more like low 15's to high 14's.
I'm excited for you, man.
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
This picture is badass! My two most favorite 80's cars going at it at the track when they're 20 something years old.
supraguy@aol;1113929 said:
indeed. In theory, the car should run mid 14s at around the 94mph range. considering another member online put a stock, old 7mge with headers, exhaust and intake in his mk2 and ran a 14.7 @93mph...I should be able to AT LEAST achieve that.
I called a dyno shop....they want $250/hr tp tune my cams...bah! no money for that this year. I may just borrow my friend's Gtech pro and see what I can do myself.
The car is a ton of fun to drive now, with wheelspin in 1st gear
The 5m would spin if you were agressive with the clutch but just roll into the throttle now and the engine overpowers the tires
E is at -6 now and I is at -2. to be honest I haven't felt major changes...but it pulls yard at 5000-5500 now. it feels like the bottom end has been hurt now. it still pulls well, but not at all like it did before. basically it feels like more peak power has been made but with a reduced area under the curve. tomorrow I will try retarding the intake more to hopefully widen the powerband and bring back the bottom end.
I think you have gone way too far with I-2 & E-6.
In order to get more torque down low you have to advance the cams, especially the intake.
Try it at I 0 & E -2 with 13 degrees timing.
If you need more top end retard the cams by 1 or 2 more degrees.
The standard Toyota cams are pretty well spent by 6000 rpm in a N/A.
I would not go more than -4 on the exhaust as you will loose too much bottom end.
In order to get more torque down low you have to advance the cams, especially the intake.
Try it at I 0 & E -2 with 13 degrees timing.
If you need more top end retard the cams by 1 or 2 more degrees.
The standard Toyota cams are pretty well spent by 6000 rpm in a N/A.
I would not go more than -4 on the exhaust as you will loose too much bottom end.
glad to see its running good! WE NEED VIDEO!!!!
You gotta love that 7m low end! After driving the boosted omni a bunch (doesnt make power at all till like 4k) and then jumpping in my supra today after fixing it the low end kinda surprised me! You never notice it till you miss it!
You gotta love that 7m low end! After driving the boosted omni a bunch (doesnt make power at all till like 4k) and then jumpping in my supra today after fixing it the low end kinda surprised me! You never notice it till you miss it!
BLACKCAT;1115523 said:
my whole goal was to get some more upper end. I need to do a little more playing, but the car still has plenty of bottom end power....maybe it's just the setup I have. obviously not as much as it did with 0 E etc...but it's still beautiful to drive at lower rpms. little more playing aorund to do to see what I like.
well, some bad news guys... I've developed an oil leak. I was checking my car routinely and noticed some oil seepage around the front of the motor, near the bottom. The timing belt is dry and it looks wet around the water pump and crank pulley. my guess is the front main seal...I wonder why it didn't seal correctly. firstly, it seems pretty silly that the front main seal seats against the drive gear....it means that the loose tolerance fit (non-interference) of the gear to the crank must seal oil somehow. has anybody else had similar troubles? Here's a pictures, what do you guys think it is?
here, you can see the water pump wet with oil too.
something nice though...you can see the electric fans I installed in this pic.
here, you can see the water pump wet with oil too.
something nice though...you can see the electric fans I installed in this pic.
It certainly looks like a front main seal to me. Did you use moly grease on the lip of the seal when you installed it? Was it from a kit or was it an OEM seal? Also, it very important its seated all the way and that you dont damage it while installing. They are pretty soft and not all that hard to damage.
Fortunately the front seal, while not the funnest job is far easier to replace than the rear.
Fortunately the front seal, while not the funnest job is far easier to replace than the rear.
Facime;1126582 said:
the engine seal kit was from an ebay gasket set (a reportedly good one mentioned on the mk2 forums). I lubricated the seal with engine oil, I drove the seal in with a large socket and everything appeared fine when installed.
cheap seal? flaw in it's manufacturing? got pinched when installed? should have used grease?
not sure....but it's got to come out
