Kckazdude;1345604 said:
If you couldn't find the info in the link I gave you then I dunno what to tell you cause gates has a cross section of a belt stating it's "glass cord" or some shit....glass cords = fiberglass!
Timing belt question Gates OEM or Race?
- Thread starter frontierguy25
- Start date
If you couldn't find the info in the link I gave you then I dunno what to tell you cause gates has a cross section of a belt stating it's "glass cord" or some shit....glass cords = fiberglass!
tbcmorris;1345658 said:sux I'm still on my first chassis though
Be happy about that! Motor swaping is only fun if it's an upgrade and no time limits!
After helping him with two motor swaps I now know for sure how I'm gonna swap when I go gte! Motor fully assembled with ground wires and bran new everything....FUCK salvaging parts and bolts!
You learned my hard learned lesson...take a peak at my build thread I built the engine in the caar
tbcmorris;1345736 said:You learned my hard learned lesson...take a peak at my build thread I built the engine in the caar
no sir! I have a complete turbo swap sitting in my bedroom at the foot of my bed...including motor stand and turbo block...soon to be another motor added to the collection! I carried a block up 3 damn flights of stairs and now I got to do it again LOL...I don't know how I'm gonna carry a fully assembled long block back down though hehe.
Only reason i would even think about it would be if i had some crazy valve springs or something, but even IJ said he had some stiff springs and it wasn't a problem. A high HP engine really shouldn't have any more drag on the cams than a stock engine, only difference would be the rate of speed increasing on accel.... but in that case you better get blue steel reinforced alternator and power steering pump belts too. lol
Ij doesn't leave motors in his supra long enough to really tell if the belts life is shortened by cams and springs...LOL
Wow lots of replies. Guys my goal is 475rwhp maybe the elusive 500rwhp mark. I have everything for it, but for now the car is my daily driver and I work 30 miles from home, so the belt is going to see a lot of action. I drive my car like I built it to be driven. I think that both honestly will be fine for what I want to do. Shoot I drove for 4 years and countless highway pulls and over 50 drag passes all over 400rwhp and the OEM Gates did fine. So we will see what is in the budget.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
gaboonviper85;1345769 said:
I probably do 5x the miles in the short time my engines are in the car though
All you do when you buy a greddy timing belt is paying extra for the name. It's the same thing as a gates.
Supra90gr;1346375 said:
Before you start running off at the mouth maybe you should do more research!!! Infact maybe you should read this whole thread before you assume gates and greddy belts are the same! You have not one clue what you are talking about so don't talk...
They are different...they may be indeed made by "gates" I don't know, but they are internally different than the gates racing belts! Had you have read this thread and it's entirety then you would have learned that!
gaboonviper85;1346436 said:
knew that was coming since the information was only a couple posts up
does anyone know if gates or greddy make a black racing belt. i dont want one because they are blue. im aiming for 500hp so i will put a blue one in if i cant get it in back because i dont want to take a chance of it braking.
So far as I know, no. I have yet to see someone snap a timing belt on our engines outside of being extremely old or improper install.
Might check the recommended service interval on which ever belt you get. 99% of the timing belt jobs that come in my shop are driven until they snap or the teeth shear off. Some with very drastic effects...
Also, make sure there aren't any oil leaks in the covers, as that will dramatically reduce the life of the belt.
Also, make sure there aren't any oil leaks in the covers, as that will dramatically reduce the life of the belt.
im not really worried that the belt will snap, i know that it will stretch though and i dont really want that.
I'm running just the Goodyear gatorback belt. I chose this route cause I plan on replacing and maintenance on belts every 30k miles. As add security the tensioner and tensioner spring is replace with new OEM pieces and torqued to specs. I believe that as long as you are up to maintenance, any reputable manufacturing belt company will do.
I made 410 AWHP in my talon on a Continental conti- belt. Took revs up too 8.5k almost everyday and had never had a tooth jump or snap. I was doing 30k belt intervals though.. just to be safe.
Quality controlled and known manufactures are not the cause of bad belts... the cause is in poor installation, maintenance, poor motor and addition parts.
I made 410 AWHP in my talon on a Continental conti- belt. Took revs up too 8.5k almost everyday and had never had a tooth jump or snap. I was doing 30k belt intervals though.. just to be safe.
Quality controlled and known manufactures are not the cause of bad belts... the cause is in poor installation, maintenance, poor motor and addition parts.
Unlike the belts of 20 years ago current OEM replacement belts are rated for 100K. Even then I went 110K on the original one without any problems. Replacing any belt at 30K is overkill but hey...your car, your money.