Time for my 7M-GTE re-build/upgrade and I have questions :)

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eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
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Stockholm, Sweden
Hello,
I have searched and searched and searched for info. I have found some but I want the chance to be updated with newer information plus I want to keep all the info regarding my re-build in one place for everyone to see and be able to talk about.

The problem (short version):
I wanted to be on the safe side and was double checking the timing. Locked it at 10 degrees before TDC. Forgot to go back to table timing and blew the head gasket.

What I want with my engine:
Like all of you I want a powerful engine. Let's start with setting a goal at about 400 BHP. But like all of you I'll want more later and if not I have good margins. I will use my supra on the street and for track days.

Current status:
The engine is out of the car. Completely taken apart and cleaned. The parts have been dropped of at my engine mechanic.

The work:

Engine block:
The bores are pretty good but will be over bored (with torque plate)to 83.5 mm to be perfect. The mechanic won't do this until he has a piston in his hand.
It will also be top decked so that I can go with a MHG.

Cylinder head:
It will be decked. The head was vacuum tested and the exhaust valves on cyl. 1 are not good. Just a few others where on the not so perfect side. Currently I'm leaning towards only fixing the bad ones and build a good cyl. head from a spare one. Thoughts?

Crank:
It will be checked for roundness but it looks good.
The current main bearings are one oversize. My mechanic will do the measurements needed so that he can tell me which size bearings I need.

The questions:
1. When the block is getting decked the rear cam cover will be mounted. Should anything else be mounted?
2. When the block is being bored, which parts needs to be mounted? cam belt tensioner (with or without the rear cam cover?)? Plugs for the oil channels? Anything else?
3. There are alot of pistons to chose from. I'm looking for higher compression. The Arias piston is what I currently thinking of buying. Should I stay away from these? or is it a good buy?
4. Does it matter which brand of bearings I get? Toyota or aftermarket?
5. What's the difference between bead type and stopper type headgasket?
6. If I go with a bead type, does it matter which brand I pick?

Current recipe:
Pistons - Arias Pistons @ driftmotion ($680)
Rods - Eagle H-beam @ Titan Motorsports ($480)
MHG - TMS @ Titan Motorsports ($119 or $176)
Bearings - Clevite @ Titan Motorsports ($83.71)
Head bolts - ARP head studs @ Driftmotion ($119.95)
Main bolts - ARP main studs @ Titan Motorsports ($95.88)
Oil pump - Upgraded DM @ Driftmotion ($375)

Any thoughts about these parts?

Thank you!
/eraezer
 
Last edited:
Van

Van

87t Hardtop
Mar 26, 2006
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Have you thought of upgrading to ceramic coated pistons? I have them in "race ready 7M" engine, and they help keep the heat in the cylinder. Wiseco has a set of these.
I have access to a local shop that custom ceramic coats engine parts so I was able to go with a less expensive brand called Probe. I had to sand off all the sharp edges and reduce the sharp angles, to reduce the incidence for hot spots. The shop I had the 7M rebuilt had a set of Wiseco w/the ceramic coating, and they were just like the Probe I had modified, but w/o all of my labor. HTH Van
 
mk3_7m

mk3_7m

Member
Jul 21, 2007
536
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16
melbourne
-When getting the blocked decked make sure you have the "Rear timing cover" attached on because the head sits on top of that. You'll have an uneven surface and the head gasket won't seal properly if you don't have it installed when decked.
- I'd imagine if your block is getting bored they'd have to hone it as well, people like to put a torque plate to mimic the head being on the block so that there will be no distortion of the upper cylinder walls while honing. In short, it is insuring that the cylinder is straight.
-With the timing belt tensioner make sure it's torqued strictly to "36 FT-lbs" otherwise you'll encounter problems with cylinder 1. (I remember that from IJ)
- Also have the main studs and caps installed and torqued correctly too.
 
E

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,845
24
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
-get head STUDS not bolts
-another good brand of pistons is JE, they also offer ceramic coating directly, so no need to pay a different company to do it
-try to get all of your parts from one vendor, usually makes it easier to keep track of things, and if you actually speak with them, you might get a discount if you are buying everything from them.
 
V

V8killer

New Member
Sep 22, 2011
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Los Banos, California, United States
I too say wiseco for the simple reason that even the stock pistons can do 700hp no need to spend too much if ur goals are much under that. On the 3sgte wiseco pistons have gotten several people to 650 awhp in the alltrac and rwhp in the mr2 lol
 
E

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
Van;1765790 said:
Have you thought of upgrading to ceramic coated pistons? I have them in "race ready 7M" engine, and they help keep the heat in the cylinder. Wiseco has a set of these.
I have access to a local shop that custom ceramic coats engine parts so I was able to go with a less expensive brand called Probe. I had to sand off all the sharp edges and reduce the sharp angles, to reduce the incidence for hot spots. The shop I had the 7M rebuilt had a set of Wiseco w/the ceramic coating, and they were just like the Probe I had modified, but w/o all of my labor. HTH Van
Click to expand...

Who sells already coated wiseco pistons?

mk3_7m;1765866 said:
-When getting the blocked decked make sure you have the "Rear timing cover" attached on because the head sits on top of that. You'll have an uneven surface and the head gasket won't seal properly if you don't have it installed when decked.
- I'd imagine if your block is getting bored they'd have to hone it as well, people like to put a torque plate to mimic the head being on the block so that there will be no distortion of the upper cylinder walls while honing. In short, it is insuring that the cylinder is straight.
-With the timing belt tensioner make sure it's torqued strictly to "36 FT-lbs" otherwise you'll encounter problems with cylinder 1. (I remember that from IJ)
- Also have the main studs and caps installed and torqued correctly too.
Click to expand...

I forgot to say that my mechanic will be using a torque plate.
Does the rear timing cover need to be on together with the timing belt tensioner when the block is being bored and honed?

Enraged;1765872 said:
-get head STUDS not bolts
-another good brand of pistons is JE, they also offer ceramic coating directly, so no need to pay a different company to do it
-try to get all of your parts from one vendor, usually makes it easier to keep track of things, and if you actually speak with them, you might get a discount if you are buying everything from them.
Click to expand...

Like I wrote in my list, I will be buying studs for the head and mains.
I'll be buying from the vendor who has the best price and those vendors listed are vendors that I have bought from before.

V8killer;1765912 said:
I too say wiseco for the simple reason that even the stock pistons can do 700hp no need to spend too much if ur goals are much under that. On the 3sgte wiseco pistons have gotten several people to 650 awhp in the alltrac and rwhp in the mr2 lol
Click to expand...

For that reason Arias would be a better choice since they are 20$ cheaper.
What people have done with their products in other engines are of no concern at all.
 
E

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,845
24
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
eraezer;1766033 said:
I'll be buying from the vendor who has the best price and those vendors listed are vendors that I have bought from before.
Click to expand...

As I said, talk (on the phone) with a vendor, and they will usually give you a better deal on the package price if you buy everything from them. Plus you usually save on shipping costs because they can send everything in one box instead of multiples.
 
mk3_7m

mk3_7m

Member
Jul 21, 2007
536
0
16
melbourne
I forgot to say that my mechanic will be using a torque plate.
Does the rear timing cover need to be on together with the timing belt tensioner when the block is being bored and honed?
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
E

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
I have now orderd the following:
Arias 83,5mm pistons
Eagle rods
ARP head and main studs
New banjos for the oil squirters
New dowelpins to use between the head and block
 
E

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
My engine block is now ready from the machine shop.

Now I need new freeze plugs except for the front welsh one.
Toyota wanted 92.50 SEK each, which is 13.80$ :S and that is too much.
What's the usual price in USA? I saw that suprastore has a kit for 52$ (http://www.suprastore.com/to7mgefrplki.html), would that be a good buy?

I'm also thinking about changing the oil shaft bearings and toyota wanted 404SEK each which is 61.30$ which is also too much.
Rockauto sells a Beck/arnley bearing set for 8.08$, are those any good? Any other place where I can buy them?


EDIT: Just so that you know, my block has not been hot tanked.
 
toyotanos

toyotanos

What will we break today?
Staff member
Super Moderator
Nov 29, 2008
2,841
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Coon Rapids, MN
When it comes to core/freeze/frot/whatever plugs, DO NOT cheap out. Yes its expensive, but get the OEM plugs. Aftermarket ones do not fit properly- I have firsthand experience with a friends engine that spat out a Dorman plug and it ruined his year.

As for the oil pump bearings, again I have to say OEM. I remember reading about a production issue with an aftermarket manufacturer that didn't have oil feed holes :aigo:

Its never cheap to do it right, but i you want to have a reliable engine, spend the money up front so you don't have to spend it again. Good luck!
 
8

87targa

New Member
Nov 14, 2005
200
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Utah
Be absolutely sure the freeze plugs are put in correctly. FYI, most new production motors do not use freeze plugs anymore, at least the porsches and VWs. Maybe others can chime in on this but you can put something on them to keep them in and they won't pop out.

If you have ARP main studs, you will most likely need to line hone the mains or your crank will not spin.
 
E

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
I've read some other threads about freeze plugs and that toyota oem is the only way if I don't want to take any chances. They also say how I should go about installing them.

How much do you usually pay for freeze plugs? Where do you buy them?
Since suprastore sells them for 52$ I can bet that neither of you pays more than 120$ for them like I will have to do if I buy them from toyota here in sweden.
Just to be clear, it's said on the suprastore homepage that these are oem.

How much do you usually pay for the bearings? Where do you buy them?
Since Beck/Arnley bearings costs 8$ for both of them so I doubt that toyota sells them for 120$ in USA like they do here in sweden.
 
E

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
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