Time for my 7M-GTE re-build/upgrade and I have questions :)

[eraezer]

Here are some pictures of my machined engine block.
It's currently a lot of oil on it to protect the surfaces. The head surface is very very smooth. The difference in surface that is visible is not anything that I can feel with fingers or fingernails, not even when I really try to feel them.
I painted a single coat of paint to keep the rust away. I will finish it when the freeze plugs are in.

Should I use some sort of cylindrical locking paste on the freeze plugs?

What do you think about the block?

 

[mecevans]

Use standard size bearings like Clevite. King bearings are the ones i have heard to stay away from. Toyota bearing are expensive. If the journals are good they can polish it to size.

I got my oil pump for $125 from rockauto.com. Spend the extra money on a full flow oil system with a thermostat.

Use head studs.

Durabond DS bearings had perfect oil clearences for me.

 

[eraezer]

The crank has been ground by a previous owner so I need the first size over standard. But I'll go with Clevite then.
My has now also been polished, but is within spec.

What about the upgraded oilpump from driftmotion? is that money wasted?
I already have a full flow thermostat controlled oil system and ARP head studs and main studs.

 

[eraezer]

Now to something that I'm really worried about, the head.
The cam journals are scored and the cams are also scored. My plan was to upgrade the springs now to BC springs and upgrade to BC stage 2 cams later during the summer (due to cost).
I can feel all the scoring, but it's less further away from the timingbelt which leads me to believe that either me or a previous owner has overtightened the timingbelt.
I cleaned all the parts and installed the cams without valves. I used oil on all contact surfaces. I rotated the cams easy by hand without any problem or sound.

What do you think? Do I need to replace the cams now? Do I need to replace the head?
And no IJ, the head has not been hardness tested. I will do so if I find the tool or a machine shop with it.

I can't/won't do or spend any money on this head till I know what to do :-/

Here are the pics:

Cam caps

Cams near the timing belt (intake cam first)

Cams furthest away from the timing belt (intake cam first)

cam jurnal closest to the timing belt (intake first)

cam jurnal further away from the timing belt (intake first)

Installed cams. No valves

 

[TweeT91109]

My cams looked similar to yours, but just keep in mind, this motor is still at least 20 years old. I just had all my mirrored surfaces polished. But you will more then likely need to re-shim your valves after that. Which is what I needed to do. Not a hard task to do yourself...but there's a lot of measuring and easy math involved. Other wise the block and head look good. Have you looked in at least gasket matching your head? You don't need like a aggressive 5 or even 3 angle porting, but at least a gasket match would be something to think about, if your shooting for 400+.

 

[eraezer]

But a polish will change the oil clearences so then the cam caps needs to be lapped, but then the tunnels will be out of round :-/ and to fix that a line bore is needed. And then a new head is cheaper. Thoughts?
Re-shimming the valves is the least of my problems.

The valve seats will get a 3-angle grind.
The intake ports will be gasket matched, but the exhaust ports will be about 1mm smaller than the gasket.
The combustion chambers will get some modifications, I will remove hot spots (sharp edges).

 

[mecevans]

I knocked down the rough edges with some fire sandpaper in the lathe.

 

[eraezer]

I just got back from my engine mechanic and he ok the head but not the cams. He also told me to do like mecavans said above.
Thankfully, HPF are having a BC sale
So I guess I'll be going with bigger cams right now
I will get BC valve springs and retainers and BC stage 2 cams.
So I will be starting on my porting job now.

What do you usually do about the valve locks? Are those included in the BC spring kit? Or do you buy new from toyota?

 

[eraezer]

Late last night I placed an order for BC stage 2 cams and BC springs and retainer kit
Now I need some adjustable cam gears... TMS version 1 seams to be re-badged Fidanza.
TMS v1 and v2 goes for 150$ each and fidanza goes for about 90$ each.
Any thoughts on which cam gears I should use?

 

[eraezer]

Today I started modifying the combustion chambers. I'm only looking to smooth out the sharp edges (hot spots).
But what do you think about this so far? And remember that I have not yet started on the intake and exhaust channels.

Overview (before and after)

Cyl 6 (before and after)

EDIT: I changed to cyl 6 pictures since they are better.

 

[supraguy@aol]

I believe all the 'grooves' on the cam surfaces is aluminum 'babbit'(?)material, and would come off with a scotchbrite pad- it's not actually grooves or blemishes in the cam material itself. Since you just ordered BC cams, I suggest you look at one of your stock cams and really inspect the bearing surfaces. I suspect they're actually perfect under the transferred aluminum buildup.


Either way- It's nice to upgrade.

 

[eraezer]

I've read about that but the BC sale had great timing so now I'll have cams with brand new surfaces
I'll take a look at my old cams when the head is finished.

Any thoughts on my combustion chambers?

 

[eraezer]

When I started porting the exhaust ports I noticed a small crack. It was in either 3rd or 4th exh port.
Is this renders the head useless?

 

[supraguy@aol]

Not necessarily. Is the crack located in the material where two exhaust valve ports join?

Better yet- take a pic.

 

[eraezer]

No it's located right at the exit of the exhaust port, starts about 2 cm from the exit.
The thing is that it continues out on the exhaust manifold mating surface about 2 or 3 mm. So I'm not sure but that could be the depth of the crack.

I started a new thread about just this problem since it can put my engine project to a stop
Thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?153267-A-crack-in-an-exhaust-port-useless-head

Picture:

 

[eraezer]

As I wrote in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?153267-A-crack-in-an-exhaust-port-useless-head
I have picked up another head which is in far better overall condition except for the exh. studs which needs helicoil.

 

[eraezer]

How do I know which way to install the eagle rods?
I have tried searching, but couldn't find a definite answer.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Small end up, big end down.

:biglaugh:

Sorry. I don't really know if there is a wrong way to install them, as far as what side should be facing forward or rearward.

 

[eraezer]

doh! :slap:

There usually are a side to face the front of the engine.

 

[IJ.]

Check the bearing tangs and if the rods use oil spray holes.