Throwing on a Driftmotion CT2657trim - Headgasket First??

[755hp]

What's going on guys. Alright, so I got my ct2657trim turbo from DM (and not Ebay as w/ my other thread lol) a few weeks ago (my current stock ct26 is blown - badly). I haven't installed it yet cause I know I wanna try 15+psi....yet, I don't know the history of the headgasket (except that its a STOCK gasket); e.g. is it retorqued??....or arp studs already, etc....but I know its a stock gasket. Thing is....I don't wanna leave the headgasket, blow it, coolant/contaminants leak into the bottom end, frigg-up bearings and spin em'....screw that, you can leave that show for the birds!....I don't need that life! As a result, I ordered ARP studs and a stock HG from DM a few days ago as I want to do a headgasket job before putting on this 57trim turbo. My current headgasket is NOT blown right now (however my compression test was 165 for all except for the second cylinder at 145) but I'm not losing coolant or over heating crazily. I feel I should do this headgasket change as "preventative" maintenance as I will be trying as much as 18psi in the future (shooting for 400+Hp at the crank). However, some folks have suggested leaving the current headgasket alone (problems might occur in changing the HG) and just swapping out the blown ct26 for the 57trim and as well as supporting mods....sigh, I'm not so sure about THAT. However, I've never pulled an engine head before (though, I've done a few things hear/there) and don't wanna run into other problems along the way. So, here's the question.

QUESTION: Given the targeted boost levels (15-18psi) w/ a 57trim turbo and supporting mods list below, should I LEAVE my current headgasket alone or CHANGE it with my already ordered stock headgasket and Arp studs from DM??

Supporting Mods:
- Intercooler kit
- Afpr
- 255lph walbro
- lex/550s

Current Mods:
- full 3" exhaust
- Apexi intake
- Grimmspeed mbc
- AEM Wideband

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

- 755hp

 

[steven89]

If you dont know the status on the Headgasket on a 7m it is always a good idea to replace it. Well worth to replace with new gasket and ARP hardware.

 

[seoul4korea]

Might want to get a FCD too but it sounds like you are on the right track... I would change the HG now with new studs, check all of your vacuum hoses and then make sure all of your other supporting sensors are in good working order as well. Also consider a metal HG and check for codes.

 

[Backlash2032]

I wouldn't even consider a metal head gasket unless you're also considering a full rebuild...

 

[755hp]

Might want to get a FCD too but it sounds like you are on the right track... I would change the HG now with new studs, check all of your vacuum hoses and then make sure all of your other supporting sensors are in good working order as well. Also consider a metal HG and check for codes.

Thanks man! A MHG would be ideal but I'm only removing the head and sending it to a machine shop to be resurfaced. As for the block, it will stay in the engine bay however, I will use a gasket scrapper and.....well, I've been searching online at Harbor Freight Tools for some air tools/accessories to clean off carbon build-up off the top-face of the pistons.

As for tuning, I plan on getting an Apexi Neo SAFC to help manage air/fuel for 15+psi. Until then I'll run up to 15psi w/ just use the afpr (w/ lex/550s) to help manage rich/lean outputs.

 

[Backlash2032]

Put some ATF on the tops of pistons at TDC to lean carbon off. or to help atleast

 

[755hp]

I wouldn't even consider a metal head gasket unless you're also considering a full rebuild...

Definitely, once you have a chance to resurface the block (full engine rebuild) your only option for a headgasket should be a MHG. However, if just the cylinder head is coming off/out and NOT the block (my case) a stock headgasket is a safer route to go in terms of surface smoothness/RA finish. MHGs require a glass like surface finish for a proper seal as oppose to the stock HG (graphite) which will conform to the uneven surface of the block allowing room for surface finishing errors (gasket scrapper).

Some people go straight to a MHG without resurfacing the block and get lucky (no BHG) and some simply don't; which defeats the purpose of doing a HG job in the first place (MHG - thinking its stronger but yet its not applied to a proper surface thus improper sealing and at high pressure - BHG!).

 

[755hp]

Put some ATF on the tops of pistons at TDC to lean carbon off. or to help atleast

Would you know of any air tools (or electric) to get to help clean off the top face of the pistons?? Or can I just use some kind of bristle brushes or something?? Here's what I was thinking:

Air Compressor: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...50-psi-professional-air-compressor-68149.html
Brushes: http://www.shop3m.com/3m-roloc-bristle-disc-kit-982rs-2-in.html

 

[Backlash2032]

I'd just let the atf soak in and use a wire brush. It's a pain in the ass to get off, no matter what you do

 

[din904]

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Green-Safer-Paint-Thinner-QKKP75010/100677234/ And a tooth brush works great soak a rag with it and let it sit on the piston at tdc for a couple of minutes cleans up nicely. Try nott to use scotch brite pads the material that its made of is bad for your bearings if you use anything use the roloc bristle brush but you shouldn't need to the thinner softens it up took me about 45 minutes to get all the Pistons cleaned up. Remember keep things as clean as possible the carbon won't harm your engine but trash in your rings and oil galley can definitely leed to problems.

 

[IndigoMKII]

Might want to get a FCD too but it sounds like you are on the right track... I would change the HG now with new studs, check all of your vacuum hoses and then make sure all of your other supporting sensors are in good working order as well. Also consider a metal HG and check for codes.

FCD.. Why? So he can get around the stock fuel cut which is in place to protect the internals from you? Not very smart.

I ran my stock HG with stock bolts for 15 PSI for over a year then bumped it to 16-17 for it to let go about 6 months later.

 

[755hp]

FCD.. Why? So he can get around the stock fuel cut which is in place to protect the internals from you? Not very smart.

I ran my stock HG with stock bolts for 15 PSI for over a year then bumped it to 16-17 for it to let go about 6 months later.

Wow, so the stock HG w/ stock bolts will actually hold additional boost levels for a while...?? Were those bolts retorqued??

Hmm, so with a new stock HG and ARP studs torqued to 80lbft, I should be alright for the same amount of boost levels then, right??

I planning on getting a Apexi NEO SAFC in the future....but for now, can I raise the boost safely w/ just the lex/550s, Walbro 225lph and AFPR as support for the extra power?? I should be running rich at that point, right??

 

[DeMoN2318]

I am in the same boat as you... gonna put on a 60-1, still have the stock HG and stock bolts (retorqued to 76).

Was going to do the HG and ARPs before I put it on, but after talking to some locals and some people with lots of experience that I trust, I decided I am just gonna roll with the stock HG until it goes.

I figure as long as I pay attention, I will catch the BHG before it does serious damage.

 

[3p141592654]

This stuff works wonders. Smells terrible.

Genuine Chrysler Combustion Chamber Cleaner 4318001AD

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-Accessories-4318001AD-Combustion/dp/B00BV4D97K

 

[Nick M]

Wow, so the stock HG w/ stock bolts will actually hold additional boost levels for a while...?? Were those bolts retorqued??

Of course they do. The problem occurs with detonation and more commonly over heating the engine. Then the deck warps slightly and then a "waterfall" is heard behind the dash.

Not to say the 58 lb/ft is ok. But the head bolts are certainly good. I would also take the Fel-Pro Permatorque over the stock gasket. It has a steel core.

 

[Backlash2032]

Stock bolts are surprisingly good. I remember a thread on here that only put them a little behind ARP bolts in terms of tensile strength. A couple thousand psi iirc? Which, when they're in the 80-90k psi range, isn't too bad. (I'm really going off memory here, my numbers are probably wayyyyy off)

 

[755hp]

I am in the same boat as you... gonna put on a 60-1, still have the stock HG and stock bolts (retorqued to 76).

Was going to do the HG and ARPs before I put it on, but after talking to some locals and some people with lots of experience that I trust, I decided I am just gonna roll with the stock HG until it goes.

I figure as long as I pay attention, I will catch the BHG before it does serious damage.

Guys....I'm struggling here....what should I do?? I don't wanna leave the HG unattended, blow it, contaminants leak into the bottom end and screw up my bearings causing me to spin them. However, I've never pulled a 7M engine head before let alone clean the deck of the block w/o getting dirt/debris in unwanted areas. I don't want screw up anything in the process and be worse off then that before I ventured into the HG job.

And there have been times I've heard a "waterfall" like sound coming from the dash on startups. Plus, back in Oct. 2014, I blew a coolant hose, coolant leaked out yet I drove it home 2-3 miles (like an IDIOT) w/ very little to no coolant....yes, I overheated to say the least. However, I filled it back up with pure water to check were I blew the hose, found it, replaced it and the engine drove fine.....also, I did a compression test which gave from the front cylinder to back 180, 175, 160, 160, 160 and 180.

Then....on halloween night (ground is slightly wet - rained), I decided to spin the tires in 1-2nd gear coming out of the movie threaters with a group of friends and....I blew ANOTHER coolant hose. This time, I pulled over immediately and called for AAA flatbed and got it home. Again, found the blown hose, replaced it as well as the spark plugs seeing as the hose I blew was the one in back of the head which sprayed coolant all over 2/3 of the spark plug valley/areas. Anyway, the engine ran fine again after that....I also, did another compression test which gave 165 for all except the second cylinder of 145.

Now (and currently) my stock ct26 turbo is blown however, I got a brand new ct2657trim from DM as well as supporting mods (also a Gates coolant hose set from DM as well - lessons learned....the hard way). But I know I wanna turn up the boost as high as 18psi after putting it on....as a result, I feel my HG should be tended to before attempting this. Especially, given the two coolant hose incidents I had in October. I don't mean to repeat the opening post of this thread but based on these incidents and where I wanna take this engine (power-wise) I feel the HG should be accounted for; not to mention shimming the oil pump or....dammit, just throw in a upgraded one from DM. At the same time....I don't wanna screw things up in the process.

WHAT TO DO??

 

[DeMoN2318]

I'd leave it...

That's my opinion

It the head is already warped from you over heating then you are already screwed...don't waste money on the HG job only to have to do it again once you up the boost...save the money for the rebuild

 

[755hp]

I'd leave it...

That's my opinion

It the head is already warped from you over heating then you are already screwed...don't waste money on the HG job only to have to do it again once you up the boost...save the money for the rebuild

I will be sending the head off to be resurfaced....not the bottom end (I will use a gasket scrapper on the deck and pistons), it will stay in the car. I will have my new stock HG and Arp studs soon. But yet, I should still leave the HG alone??

 

[DeMoN2318]

I would... just retorque the bolts (one at a time, crack loose, then torque)

Pulling the head just opens doors for more issues to arise...what if you pull the head and the block is pitted? You gonna pull the block and have it surfaced? Or just gonna roll with it?

You gonna do cam seals while you have the head off? Water pump? Timing belt? Gonna do adjustable cam gears?

It will spiral out of control...hoses, lines, little misc stuff...it'll turn into a big expensive job.

I also hear its tough to get the head back on the block with ARP studs and the block installed in the car.

Why not just run it till it blows? Then fix it? As long as you pay attention to temp and birdcage, occasionally check fluid to make sure it didn't drop...you should notice the bhg when it happens, and before it causes more damage

Thats the route I'm going