This is why you don't use AU green coolant in your 7M
- Thread starter LilMissMkIII
- Start date
IJ.;1358827 said:
The color of the coolant really is meaningless.. Its just dye to help spot leaks..Remember that about 93% of most coolant is ethylene glycol, the rest is water and/or a solvent to keep rust/corrosion called inhibitors. The inhibitors make a huge difference, and they're what all the arguments are about.
For instance the inhibitor 2-EHA is a plasticizer (softens plastic), so it has been blamed for coolant passage gasket leakage.
So depending on what brand you used or what inhibitor they where using could greatly affect your results. Regardless unless the water pump in the picture was an extreme case of some really crappy coolant...”GREEN COOLANT" Is not the problem. Maybe we could get a brand name of what the shop used so we can steer away.
Also maybe your aluminum radiator didn’t agree with the coolant designed for a copper system.
Anyways i am by no means a Antifreeze Expert so if anyone has more info please speak up.
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Don't quote out of context.....
How do you explain the above then?
The Block I used was BRAND NEW from Toyota not some 20 year old shit fighter from a junkyard....
IJ.;1358562 said:
Crypton2006;1358682 said:
How do you explain the above then?
The Block I used was BRAND NEW from Toyota not some 20 year old shit fighter from a junkyard....
IJ.;1364336 said:
Sorry.
Another possibility is that OTA (organic acid technology) coolants Do not offer instant protection to new parts..It is said that it can take 1000's of miles befor a new part is "coated" enough for it to be protected..maybe this was the case with you brand new block and head. silicates on the other hand protect aluminium very quickly whitch is what most Green american coolants use.
Dunno, I wasn't being a cock when I asked how you explain it I was at a loss to understand it as I'd always been told/taught that it was just a different dye between Red/Green when obviously whatever is in our Generic Green has a taste for cast iron, whereas the Toyota Red doesn't.
(my old block had significant pitting on the exposed deck surfaces as well after using Green for many years)
(my old block had significant pitting on the exposed deck surfaces as well after using Green for many years)
IJ.;1364362 said:
I definatly agree that toyota red is a superior product to the generic green stuff. I think they probably have a bigger budjet for R&D then prestone..lol
My dealship here in town has a deal for 6 gallons of the toyota red for like 108dollars or somting like that. It might be other dealships as well.
I'm going to try the Zyrex in the new engine unless I can find some data that countraindicates it for an Al/Al engine.
The Toyota Red is damn expensive here.
The Toyota Red is damn expensive here.
IJ.;1364371 said:
my cars got green in it and as far as i know has for the entire 270k miles so far. to me its dosent seem a problem to have a little surface rust on the impeller like that. my question is did you decide to pull the water pump once you saw green was used or did somthing happen to make you want to remove it?
IJ.;1364371 said:
Did you try the Valvoline G-05 Ian? i used to use it with no issues, although a lot of people swear by the "red" so thats what I'm running at the moment.
And no John Laws didn't sway me to buy Valvoline.lol
I think the one I looked at was a Castrol version Pete.wiseco7mgt;1364420 said:
Not too bad as I get a deal from my parts guy whereas the Toyota stuff can't be discounted nearly as muchjdub;1364468 said:
I'm assuming it'll be fine in the Chev John?
NAS: That wasn't my waterpump it was LilMiss's, my point was on a brand new block it badly pitted the uncovered deck surfaces where the blank holes in the gasket are in 4000 Km's, I then had it surfaced and ran Toyota Red for 30,000 Km's and when stripped down the same surfaces were perfect with no pitting.
I can hear people saying "it's not an issue it's only the blind deck holes" but keep in mind if it's pitting that surface it's doing the same to the inside of the entire cooling jacket, on a pre 89 light cast block this could end up being quite an issue as you go up in bore sizes, you could end up with an engine that runs hot for no apparent reason.
GM recommends DexCool...it's OAT inhibitor technology, but you'll never catch me using it. If air or certain contaminant's get into the system, the result is a goo that clogs up the rad (and everything else). In addition, DexCool contains 2-EHA which is bad (as in destroys) certain type gasket materials...iirc, the intake manifold gasket on that V-8 is one of them.
HOAT refers to the use of silicates in combination with an organic acid inhibitor. Moderate dose of silicates provide greater aluminum protection than a straight OAT while still being coolant system friendly. Zyrex G05 is HOAT coolant...the inhibitor is Glysantin, it's a traditional Ethylene Glycol base and is moderately silicated to provide fast acting protection. Toyota Red is also HOAT with an Ethylene Glycol base...the difference is it uses a phosphate based additive inhibitor. It too contains silicates for the same reason.
The short answer to your question Ian, is yes.
HOAT refers to the use of silicates in combination with an organic acid inhibitor. Moderate dose of silicates provide greater aluminum protection than a straight OAT while still being coolant system friendly. Zyrex G05 is HOAT coolant...the inhibitor is Glysantin, it's a traditional Ethylene Glycol base and is moderately silicated to provide fast acting protection. Toyota Red is also HOAT with an Ethylene Glycol base...the difference is it uses a phosphate based additive inhibitor. It too contains silicates for the same reason.
The short answer to your question Ian, is yes.