Thinking of Stroking the 1j

[Poodles]

Manifold bolts to the head...not the block.

R154 bolts right up using the 1JZ bellhousing (it's not called a transfer case, that's for 4x4 trucks and it's bolted to the back of the tranny to split the power to front and rear)

It may be your preferance, but by changing the internals you're not going to have a 1J anymore.

Curious is fine, and if you have so much disposable money to build a stroker 1J, go right ahead. It's apparent you want to hear "oh that sounds cool, go right ahead" when nobody will do that simply because it's going to cost crazy amounts of money and probably not be as reliable as a stock 2J block.

If you're already running upgraded fuel that's good for 600HP, you would simply be running 600HP on a larger motor that makes far more torque.

 

[BoostMonger]

This must be "give the dream chasing new guy shit" thread. Just stroke it and show us all.



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[IJ.]

I'm not sure but if I wanted to go 2j instead the mani for my 1j will not bolt up. And does the r154 bolt right up to the 2j? I was under the impression id need to get a different transfer case. I really don't want to get a 2j block and mount it to the 1j head. I would rather keep it a 2j or a 1j. Not a halfer... just preferance. I'm just very curious to how a 2.8 would be. I think it would be fantastic... and I'm running upgraded fuel rails and injectors. I have 650cc's also running meth. So if I build the 1j I should be able to use the same rail and injectors and push it to about 600 no problem.

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Why do you "think" that?

I mean seriously 300cc isn't going to do squat, half a pound of extra boost would do far more, if you ran a quick spool valve on your current set up it would crap all over the "stroker"...

 

[ROBAPHENT]

I would agree on the whole 1.5JZ being stupid only reason i will go 1.5JZ would be if i changed my focus to drag racing or something as i have spent a lot of money on the 1JZ (Manifolds and so on)

1JZ if you are following rules in racing. 2JZ if you want to make power easy and cheap

 

[colpire]

Manifold bolts to the head...not the block.

R154 bolts right up using the 1JZ bellhousing (it's not called a transfer case, that's for 4x4 trucks and it's bolted to the back of the tranny to split the power to front and rear)

It may be your preferance, but by changing the internals you're not going to have a 1J anymore.

Curious is fine, and if you have so much disposable money to build a stroker 1J, go right ahead. It's apparent you want to hear "oh that sounds cool, go right ahead" when nobody will do that simply because it's going to cost crazy amounts of money and probably not be as reliable as a stock 2J block.

If you're already running upgraded fuel that's good for 600HP, you would simply be running 600HP on a larger motor that makes far more torque.

I understand that the manifold bolts to the head, hence the reason I said I'd rather not have a 1j head with a 2j bottom end. And I'm not trying to get approval, I'm just trying to get some feedback from people who might have experience with a project similar to this. I don't think I've seen a stroked 1j and I wonder if it would be as reliable as a 2j. I dont see why it wouldn't be as long as was built right.

I'm just hesitant to spend the money because I've heard horror stories about motor builds, especially strokers. I could see how swapping a stock 2j block in there could be a much cheaper solution, but I have terrible luck with buying used parts and with my luck the same thing that happened to my car would happen to the 2j. I believe that in many ways you get what you pay for so I'm not trying to cut any corners.

I'm not rushing into anything, I plan on taking my time with my research before I come to any conclusions. Thanks for the feedback. Like i said I'm just trying to see if anyone has experience with built and/or stroked jz motors particularly the 1j.

 

[hvyman]

Horrible luck with buying used parts?

Buy used 2jz block and rebuild it. Will still be far far less than a custom striker kit.

 

[colpire]

I am definitely going to take that into consideration. But I'm not sure id really be saving that much money building the 2j vs stroking the 1j.

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[hvyman]

Rebuild on a 2j block shouldn't be more than about 1k.

Use the 1jz head. Port and polish and put 272 cams and shimless buckets and get a good tune. Can rev high and make lots of power.

Or buy a Unopened 2jzgte and swap it in and get 600 hp

 

[colpire]

Rebuild on a 2j block shouldn't be more than about 1k.

Use the 1jz head. Port and polish and put 272 cams and shimless buckets and get a good tune. Can rev high and make lots of power.

Or buy a Unopened 2jzgte and swap it in and get 600 hp

I've seen just pistons go for about a grand...I don't see how a whole build could be anywhere close to a grand even if did the work.... which isn't going to happen. I'm not that handy lol. I feel if i built the 2j in the same manner id stroke the 1j id be spending similar cash. I might see saving 2 grand because of the stroker.

I have a question. When you bore out a motor does the rod length stay similar. For instance just hypothetically speaking... if the 1j was bored out to a 3 litre would the specs on pistons rods, etc be the same as the 1j? Or would the rods still be short

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[BoostMonger]

Maybe you should find a shop to build this stroker for you.



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[Insidious Surmiser]

I'm just trying to get some feedback from people who might have experience with a project similar to this.

the advice is that a stoked 1jz = 2jz pretty simple....

with the right tune people thrash 2jz's on stock bottom end w/ 8-900hp... if it blows, go to the junkyard, find a lexus and buy another block for ~$200 pretty simple

 

[Dylan JZ]

There is simply no reason to not do the 1.5J over this... none.

It's more displacement, cheaper, easier, and you can use parts that aren't one-offs. this is beyond illogical..

 

[colpire]

Does anyone know of a reliable source for 2j bottom ends? I might be inclined to go with the less expensive option. I might just invest money into building a solid head and just go stock 2j bottom end. And earlier I said transfer case when I meant bellhousing...I must have been high lol. But the r154 would bolt right up?

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[BoostMonger]

Does anyone know of a reliable source for 2j bottom ends? I might be inclined to go with the less expensive option. I might just invest money into building a solid head and just go stock 2j bottom end. And earlier I said transfer case when I meant bellhousing...I must have been high lol. But the r154 would bolt right up?

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Driftmotion and yes



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[Insidious Surmiser]

Does anyone know of a reliable source for 2j bottom ends? I might be inclined to go with the less expensive option. I might just invest money into building a solid head and just go stock 2j bottom end. And earlier I said transfer case when I meant bellhousing...I must have been high lol. But the r154 would bolt right up?

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best bet would be to find a wrecked gs300, is300, or sc300 in a junkyard (with no damage to engine of course) I've seen lots of these TBH, and with pretty good mileage too... most cars here are tested and marked if they have a good engine or trans

 

[rakkasan]

I would agree on the whole 1.5JZ being stupid only reason i will go 1.5JZ would be if i changed my focus to drag racing or something as i have spent a lot of money on the 1JZ (Manifolds and so on)

1JZ if you are following rules in racing. 2JZ if you to make power easy and cheap

I dont know why you think a 1.5JZ is stupid, it's actually a great motor.

 

[525gte]

I've seen just pistons go for about a grand...I don't see how a whole build could be anywhere close to a grand even if did the work.... which isn't going to happen. I'm not that handy lol. I feel if i built the 2j in the same manner id stroke the 1j id be spending similar cash. I might see saving 2 grand because of the stroker.

I have a question. When you bore out a motor does the rod length stay similar. For instance just hypothetically speaking... if the 1j was bored out to a 3 litre would the specs on pistons rods, etc be the same as the 1j? Or would the rods still be short

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Why do you need to replace the pistons.. it like 150 dolars here to have it honed and rings are cheap . If your rebuilding the stock 2j block I bet the machine work will run you less than 300. And tha arp bolt for mains and rods abd studs for the head is less than 500 total. Either use stock toyota hg or aftermarket hg both good for 800wheel or more.. or a full engine gasket kit I'm rebuilding my 1j right now. And my drift motion bill was 1300 and that's with all the parts for the trany rebuild also. Its a lot cheaper than you think if all u want is a stockish rebuild.

 

[ROBAPHENT]

I dont know why you think a 1.5JZ is stupid, it's actually a great motor.

Reason i think it is stupid is when people go out to build a 1.5J thinking it is better then just building a stock 2JZ.

1JZ head do not flow more air then a 2JZ so people should just build a 2JZ right from the start and not waste money building a 1.5J from the start.

 

[colpire]

Reason i think it is stupid is when people go out to build a 1.5J thinking it is better then just building a stock 2JZ.

1JZ head do not flow more air then a 2JZ so people should just build a 2JZ right from the start and not waste money building a 1.5J from the start.

I agree. So I called undercover tuning in NJ and talked to someone very helpful. Im most likely going to go with the whole 2j motor. Big single with pro efi. I'll keep you guys posted

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[rakkasan]

Reason i think it is stupid is when people go out to build a 1.5J thinking it is better then just building a stock 2JZ.

1JZ head do not flow more air then a 2JZ so people should just build a 2JZ right from the start and not waste money building a 1.5J from the start.

I have smashed quite a few equally built 2JZ's with my pitiful little 1.5JZ..... I think your view of 1.5's are a bit skewed and ill-informed