What is the normal operating AVERAGE temperature? I did a search and got some cool info, but not the answer. Thanks.
Thermostat Location and replacement.
- Thread starter MKIIIiLLMATIC
- Start date
The ECU looks for 176-210 deg F...below that, it's in warm-up enrichment...above that, it pulls timing.
What are the consequences of not having a thermostat? Can it cause overheating if you don't have one? Just something that I heard, that some people don't run thermostats. Just curious if this is a good idea in our cars.
You want to run at thermostat to get the ECU out of warm-up enrichment as quickly as possible. The folks that don't run one do not understand how the system works in this car. It won't overheat, but it will run rich until the coolant gets to the temp range above.
jdub;925430 said:
Will this apply for a 7m with the egr blocked off? My instructor said the head might run a little bit hotter because of the block off. Also, i was wondering if the thermostat housing needs a paper gasket too, or will the thermostat o-ring suffice? I read the tsrm and it doesn't say anything about a gasket for the thermostat housing. Thanks and sorry for jacking the thread.
The thermostat has nothing to do with what temps the coolant runs other than opening/closing at a set temp. Depending on the condition of the rest of the system, the coolant may contine rise, it depends on the capacity of your radiator and condition of the shroud/fan clutch to remove heat from the coolant. The under tray has an impact too. If your cooling system is in good working order, coolant temps should stabilize at or just above the themostat rated temp.
All the thermostat does is open up at a set temp and allow coolant into the radiator. A colder thermostat will not make you car run cooler, it will just delay the coolant getting above the 176 deg F where the ECU stops warm-up enrichment.
BTW - Blocking the EGR will not make the car run hotter coolant wise. No EGR will cause an increase in cylinder temps. Combined with the ECU fuel/timing maps expecting the EGR to be there, your risk of detonation is higher...and this can occur at less than WOT.
The rubber gasket should be all you need. If you're planning to replace the thermostat, cut the jiggle valve off and make sure the hole that's left is at the 12 o'clock position.
All the thermostat does is open up at a set temp and allow coolant into the radiator. A colder thermostat will not make you car run cooler, it will just delay the coolant getting above the 176 deg F where the ECU stops warm-up enrichment.
BTW - Blocking the EGR will not make the car run hotter coolant wise. No EGR will cause an increase in cylinder temps. Combined with the ECU fuel/timing maps expecting the EGR to be there, your risk of detonation is higher...and this can occur at less than WOT.
The rubber gasket should be all you need. If you're planning to replace the thermostat, cut the jiggle valve off and make sure the hole that's left is at the 12 o'clock position.
soundslikesemi87;987543 said:
jdub;987584 said:
In other words, yes. The hotter the combustion, the more heat the head will absorb. Which is a problem if you have a derelict cooling system. As he correctly pointed out.
What else can I do to prevent the detonation, other than maybe getting an safc? Which I am getting in the very near future. Thanks for the info again.
Since you removed the EGR, either reinstall it or find a JDM ECU for your year car (JDM 7M motors did not have an EGR). An SAFC will help with fuel, but not the timing maps.
Dammit, the previous owner, which is my friend's uncle, swears that the car was swapped with a jdm motor and ecu. However, I was thinking, since it has an egr and knock sensors, that he just got screwed by some mechanic and claimed that the motor was "JDM". Well, you don't happen to have any 87 jdm 5spd ecu's would you jdub? haha it's worth a try
ok, so i read through this thread and changed my thermostat today but i noticed that i had put on one that was good for 180F instead of the recommended 190F. will this cause any serious problems? i am still overheating BTW.
The only thing the 180 stat is going to do is delay coolant getting to ops temp...it will not cause harm, but you'll be in warm-up enrichment longer (i.e. run rich). I always cut the jiggle valve off to get a bit of flow and prevent any back pressure in the cooling system.
thats what i did. i cut the jiggle valve and made sure it was in the 12 o'clock position. i guess it could just be some air in the system?
well i got it checked out at the local "tuner" shop and he checked everything out for me. he said it wasnt a BHG. he said it was either the thermostat or it could be the fan. the fan could have an intermittent "glitch" where it wont work but he said it did not do it for him when he had it. it is just doing the basic overheating thing. sorry i dont really know how else to explain it.