Theorettically... If my Heater VSV is closed......
- Thread starter Big Wang Bandit
- Start date
My car has heater problems, The Climate control is set up very odd, but I'm just asking, If I unghettomodded my heater VSV... It would be "cold" right?
Ok, Well here is my dellima.
At first what I thought was a climate control problem, may just accually be a VSV/ heater valve problem.
At the moment I am trying to see how my heater valve and VSV are properly supposed to be plumbed, particularly on a 1jz. As it sits, I have constant vaccum on the valve, which gives me REALLY hot, or hot(ambient)
Here is a questions I propose, The climate control(including heater VSV) is part of the BODY harness, and has nothing to do with engine harness.
At first what I thought was a climate control problem, may just accually be a VSV/ heater valve problem.
At the moment I am trying to see how my heater valve and VSV are properly supposed to be plumbed, particularly on a 1jz. As it sits, I have constant vaccum on the valve, which gives me REALLY hot, or hot(ambient)
Here is a questions I propose, The climate control(including heater VSV) is part of the BODY harness, and has nothing to do with engine harness.
Nope, I don't think so. Pretty damn certain I have to disconnect it when pulling off the engine wire harness.
You should get vacuum virtually all the time - the only time it doesn't is when you have the climate control set to full cold.
You should get vacuum virtually all the time - the only time it doesn't is when you have the climate control set to full cold.
Well now I am afraid my engine harness has a mistake in the climate control circuit... Or Mike just didn't wire it up.
I would still like to plumb it correctly, as when I bought it, It was totally unconnected other than coolant lines., And I needed a defroster, so I ran a vacuum line from the top nipple, to the intake manifold to give myself vaccum, and now i'm stuck with heat!
Once I get it plumbed correctly I want to test the VSV via the climate control, and if I confirm it works, Then I can assume the heater valve is not working.
If the VSV isn't working, I can try a new one, but I may just jump straight to the My wiring harness is FUBAR :[
I would still like to plumb it correctly, as when I bought it, It was totally unconnected other than coolant lines., And I needed a defroster, so I ran a vacuum line from the top nipple, to the intake manifold to give myself vaccum, and now i'm stuck with heat!
Once I get it plumbed correctly I want to test the VSV via the climate control, and if I confirm it works, Then I can assume the heater valve is not working.
If the VSV isn't working, I can try a new one, but I may just jump straight to the My wiring harness is FUBAR :[
Vacum from the intake goes to the vsv unit - The little square electrial unit at the bottom , Into the port facing towards the drivers side. There is a small hose that comes out of the bottom of the vsv unit nd plugs into the top of the bigger round cannister/valve thingy.
As it sits, you have direct vacum applied to the cannister thingy. ( this keeps the hot water flow open at all times.)
In order for the VSV to function properly - control the vacum - which in turn controls how much hot/ water to let through, it needs some electricity.
This comes off the under dash connector - the big fat square one. The dash side of it comes directly from the Climate control unit-
It is a black/yellow wire > going into the same colored wire of the corresponding plug of the harness. The vsv plug has this wire and a yellow one.
The yellow wire on the vsv plug comes from the Gauge cluster circuit - 7.5 amps
So basically it should be : Yellow from gauge cluster circuit/fusebox > vsv plug > Black /yellow > I H1 connector > climate control unit
I know your harness has multiple colors - lol - so it is PIN 1 on the IH1 plug
Also, if your climate control is set to fresh air, it will be hot.
If you set it to recirculate, no more hot air will come through with the way you have yours setup.
As it sits, you have direct vacum applied to the cannister thingy. ( this keeps the hot water flow open at all times.)
In order for the VSV to function properly - control the vacum - which in turn controls how much hot/ water to let through, it needs some electricity.
This comes off the under dash connector - the big fat square one. The dash side of it comes directly from the Climate control unit-
It is a black/yellow wire > going into the same colored wire of the corresponding plug of the harness. The vsv plug has this wire and a yellow one.
The yellow wire on the vsv plug comes from the Gauge cluster circuit - 7.5 amps
So basically it should be : Yellow from gauge cluster circuit/fusebox > vsv plug > Black /yellow > I H1 connector > climate control unit
I know your harness has multiple colors - lol - so it is PIN 1 on the IH1 plug
Also, if your climate control is set to fresh air, it will be hot.
If you set it to recirculate, no more hot air will come through with the way you have yours setup.
Last edited:
Well the funny thing is Moe, is that with it recirculating, Its still around ambient temperature. If you have an idea, on how to fix the CC, I would be willing to drive to you to see if we can get this sorted out.
I'm going to see if I can wake early to look at the VSV tomorrow, before my allergies really get to me!
I'm going to see if I can wake early to look at the VSV tomorrow, before my allergies really get to me!
Even with ful vac on the valve and coolant running through the core it shouldn't blow hot if the CC is set to 65.. Your servos in your dash are probably stuck/positioned wrong..
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&Page=43
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&Page=43
tissimo said:
Tissimo is correct.
If the temp is set to 65,then no hot air should be blowing through.
Is this the other side of the plug I am looking for?
My glovebox is out, I can hear a flap moving when i turned it down from 85, And I visually confirmed my recirculate air flap is working. It seems as if the VSV is completely bypassed, So my next stop is probably to grab a foot of vac line to plumb it back in, corectly, while my main concern is this damn plug.
Last edited:
yes thats the plug.. I dont remember the pinning.. but look under the center of the dash you will see the mixture control servo, you need to verify that its in the proper position...
The little plate showed it was over "w" rather than "o" when 1 and 3 was shorted. So now I need to short red/green and blue yellow, the two female tips! :/
Okay well I have don't that, The servo did not move once that was done, but the TSRM didn't say to make sure it was at "o" after that so I guess I am in the clear.
Had I ought to plumb in my heater VSV now?
Had I ought to plumb in my heater VSV now?
Whipped out my multimeter, Key in on position, heater blowing on high, 11.2 volts from the VSV to wiring harness connector.
Now Im gonna test the VSV.
Now Im gonna test the VSV.
Okay,
Plumbed in my VSV, No change in heat or cold(not very noticeable.
I went to each extreme on the scale, and the arm was in the same position on the valve.
I may go pick one up from Suprastanger507mgte later this week, and Hopefully I can get some chilly air!
Plumbed in my VSV, No change in heat or cold(not very noticeable.
I went to each extreme on the scale, and the arm was in the same position on the valve.
I may go pick one up from Suprastanger507mgte later this week, and Hopefully I can get some chilly air!