Theorettically... If my Heater VSV is closed......
- Thread starter Big Wang Bandit
- Start date
No.
Thanks Moe for the help.
Im not sure how I am going to do my wiring harness... I love this car, But. Im really not sure. I may just drive it out till I get my next car. :icon_conf
Thanks Moe for the help.
Im not sure how I am going to do my wiring harness... I love this car, But. Im really not sure. I may just drive it out till I get my next car. :icon_conf
suprastanger507mgte said:
Sorry, I didn't read the whole thread so I didn't know if he was manually opening the valve, if it was always open or what.
There should be a door in the Heater box that covers the heater core, therefore if there is still hot coolant in the heater core the air would not be traveling threw the heater core to transfer the heat into the cabin.
Forget about checking to see if that coolant valve is working, even if its stuck open there shouldn't be any flow of air threw the heater core when its set to cold. the air might be slightly warm from there being a heat source inside the box, but should be a significant difference from hot to cold. My bet is this door is stuck closed making air go threw the heater core heating up the cabin.
Forget about checking to see if that coolant valve is working, even if its stuck open there shouldn't be any flow of air threw the heater core when its set to cold. the air might be slightly warm from there being a heat source inside the box, but should be a significant difference from hot to cold. My bet is this door is stuck closed making air go threw the heater core heating up the cabin.
Chunks: And that door is controlled by the AMP in the CC so no matter what you do with the heater tap and it's controls if that's not working all you get is cold as I posted earlier....
but hes still playing with the heater vsv and coolant flow valve, if the doors not working you found the problem.
He should check that out rather then play with the vsv and heater control valve
He should check that out rather then play with the vsv and heater control valve
There MAY be a slight difference in air temp that he's not mentioning... the armature of the Heater valve isn't moving, so obviously there is a problem with the VSV...one problem at a time.
Chunks: LOL "Can't put brains in a monument" 
(I didn't have any pics of the door handy and I'm NOT pulling mine out to take em)
(I didn't have any pics of the door handy and I'm NOT pulling mine out to take em)
He should fix the door because even if he fixes the coolant valve there will still be hot coolant in the heater core when he turns it from hot to cold and it will still be hot air coming out of the vents until the heat is totally removed from the heater core. therefore fixing the coolant valve will still leave another problem to be fixed.
you can fix 2 problems, one problem at a time, or fix 1 problem first and solve all the rest at the same time. ill take the second approach.
i just took my car around the block and i put it from hot to cold and i instantly felt a huge difference from hot to cold, even though theres still plenty hot coolant in the heater core.
fix the heater box door. its a faster fix for the problem and most likely easier to fix.
you can fix 2 problems, one problem at a time, or fix 1 problem first and solve all the rest at the same time. ill take the second approach.
i just took my car around the block and i put it from hot to cold and i instantly felt a huge difference from hot to cold, even though theres still plenty hot coolant in the heater core.
fix the heater box door. its a faster fix for the problem and most likely easier to fix.
IJ. said:
lol i know IJ but thats what im saying to fix rather then playing with the HCV and still having problems. Also it seems that if the problem is the AMP then it went out when the CC was set to hot so the doors are set for heat, would that also control witch vents the air comes out? cause if it does you could test that by selecting a different place for the air to come out.
johnathan1 said:
Because the heater core isn't isnt always in constant air flow inside the heater box.
Theres 2 possible passages for air to to travel threw in the heater box. ONE is threw the heater core, and the OTHER bypasses the heater core. when you bypass the heater core there is nothing to heat the air. Theres a door inside the heater box that controls this passage. THAT door MIGHT be the one im talking about.
If he fixes the problem with the in-operational door there will not be any more hot air coming threw the vents because the heater core is blocked by said door, EVEN if the HCV is wide open at all times. hence "fixing" the original problem.
Its not "fixing" the heater coolant valve but it is solving the original constant heat problem.
Now lets say he fixes the problem with the HCV, Witch could actually be the valve itself sticking because the actuator might not have enough strength to close/open it, witch is (from what ive herd) common, The door that blocks the heater core will still be inoperative. Since that door is still inoperative when he changes the temp from 85 to 65 (max hot to max cold)(HOT coolant will still be in the heater core) the air will still travel threw the heater core because the door wont redirect it. the air coming threw the vents will still be hot (like the heat is still on) until enough air passes threw the heater core to cool it off to ambient temperature.
Therefore, Fix the door in the heater box so it closes off airflow to the heater core, and the constant heat problem will be fixed. Then forget about the expensive, pain in the ass electrical/mechanical/whatever-kind-of-problem your having with the HCV
Go here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&Page=45
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nosechunks said:
I like to do things the right way...what you're suggesting will only be a temporary fix...he could get the same results by just pulling the vacuum line off of the Heater valve.
If it's broken, FIX IT...don't half-ass it.
johnathan1 said:
No actually pulling the vacuum line would be a temporary fix because he would have to get out to turn the heat on. :3d_frown:
Fixing the door would allow heat when wanted, at the touch of a button and cold air instantly at the touch of a button. Hmm, Sounds like how its supposed to work from the factory to me. If changing hot to cold instantly at the touch of a button is half ass, then it was half ass-ed from the factory.
