He buys his M1's from thecmp.org. He is a Marine so he can buy using his military ID, while civilians need to participate in marksmanship competitions and firearm clubs. They are very reputable and the prices depend on the manufacturer, age and condition.
The (old) Official Gun Thread.
- Thread starter outofstep
- Start date
- Status
aye mate;1628589 said:
Hmm, so I can't buy from them then ><
I want an M1 soooo bad. My friend has also been looking for a M14 1970s era also.Edit: Just checked out the site, I wish we had a store like that in TN. Military surplus stuff is AWESOME!
You can. You just have meet the requirements for civilians. This can answer more questions than I can. > http://odcmp.com/faqs.htm
aye mate;1628674 said:
Correct.
For example, I:
- Am a US Citizen
- I have a CCW (Counts as "Marksmanship or other Firearms Related Activity")
- I'm a member of the Georgia Sport Shooting Association (GSSA) (A CMP Affiliated Organization)
And I have bought from them.
One nice thing is they are exempt from FFL rules and will ship the rifles directly to your home. (Via FedEx - someone must be there to sign for it)
So, I've been meaning to do this for the last couple weeks, but I've been pretty slammed with classes and stuff, but I figured why not have a little old fashioned show and tell
My AR:
And a few weeks ago, I bought my first handgun, a Smith & Wesson 4506, i know, its kind of a boat anchor, but I have big hands and I'm 6'2, 235lbs, so Ive found it just right for me:
My AR:
And a few weeks ago, I bought my first handgun, a Smith & Wesson 4506, i know, its kind of a boat anchor, but I have big hands and I'm 6'2, 235lbs, so Ive found it just right for me:
staehlin180;1629064 said:
I have a S&W 4006. She's a Cadillac compared to any of my Tupperware pistols that I have. Id shoot it any day of the week over the plastics.... PITA to clean though.
What makes it a PITA to clean? I don't have any problem field stripping it, just outta curiosity
Sometimes getting the slide stop pin to move on those things is a real pain in the ass. The takedown on my Taurus makes that thing look like a Rubic's cube.
aye mate;1629710 said:
PT-945 - (Looks very similar to a Sig P220) it's pretty old at this point, it's been my daily carry gun since 1997. Probably has well upwards of 8,000 rounds through it easy. I'm probably going to retire the old girl this year.
Just finished my ar15
Aero precision lower
Spikes enhanced lower parts kit
Caa CBS16 stock
Spikes st2 buffer assembly
Bravo company upper
Bravo company bcg
Bravo company gun fighter charge handle
Magpul back up sights
Yankee hill 16" 1:7 carbine barrel
Yankee hill low pro gas block
Yankee hill flash hider/compensator
Spikes BAR 12" quad rail
Just ordered this voodoo tactical 36" rifle case
Soon I plan on getting a millet 1-4x scope on larue mounts
Aero precision lower
Spikes enhanced lower parts kit
Caa CBS16 stock
Spikes st2 buffer assembly
Bravo company upper
Bravo company bcg
Bravo company gun fighter charge handle
Magpul back up sights
Yankee hill 16" 1:7 carbine barrel
Yankee hill low pro gas block
Yankee hill flash hider/compensator
Spikes BAR 12" quad rail
Just ordered this voodoo tactical 36" rifle case
Soon I plan on getting a millet 1-4x scope on larue mounts
I'm thinking I should build my AR-10. It seems cheaper plus you can upgrade it while you are building it...any tips? Is there a site I could read up on? Where should I begin? Will everything fit(same calibur) top/bottom/barrel/etc. from different companies? Are there companies I should stay the hell away from?
An ar10 is more expensive! Ammo is more $$, parts are more $$ etc.
As far as part fitment goes....if everything is milspec then yes all parts will fit together just fine. If you plan on building the rifle like I did then you must make sure everything is ar10 specific as all internal parts are different!
Armalite, dpms, and a few others have many options when selecting a rifle and or parts.
Great place to start reading is here. http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=3&f=62
As far as companies to stay away from....if the price is to good to be true than it is 90% of the time it is crap! For example...my quad rail is a 12" from spikes $200+....I could have got one for $110 from midway....or I could have spent almost $400 for a Daniel defense....I chose the middle ground.
As far as part fitment goes....if everything is milspec then yes all parts will fit together just fine. If you plan on building the rifle like I did then you must make sure everything is ar10 specific as all internal parts are different!
Armalite, dpms, and a few others have many options when selecting a rifle and or parts.
Great place to start reading is here. http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=3&f=62
As far as companies to stay away from....if the price is to good to be true than it is 90% of the time it is crap! For example...my quad rail is a 12" from spikes $200+....I could have got one for $110 from midway....or I could have spent almost $400 for a Daniel defense....I chose the middle ground.
Poodles;1630723 said:
As much as I'd love to agree that this is media bullshit I can't:-(. Remington 700 series rifles have had unsafe trigger assemblies sense forever! Remington has known about this and chose to ignore it...the designer of the 700 warned Remington not to produce the trigger units but the ignored him. There are thousands of stories of 700's firing on their own just by flipping the safety off:-(
Yes these rifles have a "problem" but this problem is no excuse for this sad story! That lady violated the #1 firearm safety rule (never point the gun at something you don't want to shoot!)....
Infact, the #1 modification done to 700 series rifles is to junk the trigger and install a timely (sp) trigger and mod the bolt so it can cycle while still on "safe"....the rifle itself is an amazing platform but the triggers are hazzardous!
gaboonviper85;1630599 said:
Sweet forum! I'm looking at the Ar-15/10 picture thread and it has dawned on me, who ever tries to come and occupy us is going to be fucked....
Mario - the big thing to watch out for when you go to .308 in a AR platform is compatibility. For what I've seen, there are 4 different patterns used with Armalite and DPMS as the most common (FYI Noveske and Aeroprecision are the Armalite pattern). All the patterns are different and will not exchange - this applies to more than the internal parts...i.e. a DPMS barrel extension is different from Armalite and different from a Stoner, you can not swap barrels across the different uppers as a result. Magazines are different too - Armalite is based on the M-14 magazine - DPMS is more along the lines of an AR-15 (MagPul makes DPMS compatible mags, but not Armalite). The barrel nut threads are also different, making the attachment of the forestocks incompatible. The bottom line is to stick with whatever pattern you choose in a AR .308 gun. This is a huge difference from the AR-15 world in that AR-15's are pretty much standardized across manufacturers.
The AR-10 is an Armalite trademark - the only gun you can call an AR-10 is therefore Armalite - it does have a majority of it's parts common to the AR-15 (this is why I chose it for my builds). All the AR .308 guns are more expensive than an AR-15, both for a complete gun or for parts - availability of parts is also a lot less and the compatibility issue is a real player. If you are going with a basic gun, buying factory is usually cheaper - if you are planning to do a lot of customization, a build will be cheaper since you are not buying parts you don't need. I went with the latter route on the two AR-10 guns I posted here and used an Armalite Gunsmithing Kit:
http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/ARMGSK10A4.aspx
Of course, the tools you need to assemble an AR-10 are different from an AR-15 too
The additional parts to complete add up fast, especially if you use top quality parts. That is why the AR-10 SPR I built and posted a few pages back is so expensive - there are very few stock parts in that gun...the barrel alone was pushing $600. The result is a gun that prints sub-MOA - it's groups are less than a quarter at 100 yards with a middle of the road scope and it's not even broke in yet.
It all depends on your objective - kinda like a Supra in this respect - do you want accurate, reliable or cheap, you get to pick two
The AR-10 is an Armalite trademark - the only gun you can call an AR-10 is therefore Armalite - it does have a majority of it's parts common to the AR-15 (this is why I chose it for my builds). All the AR .308 guns are more expensive than an AR-15, both for a complete gun or for parts - availability of parts is also a lot less and the compatibility issue is a real player. If you are going with a basic gun, buying factory is usually cheaper - if you are planning to do a lot of customization, a build will be cheaper since you are not buying parts you don't need. I went with the latter route on the two AR-10 guns I posted here and used an Armalite Gunsmithing Kit:
http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/ARMGSK10A4.aspx
Of course, the tools you need to assemble an AR-10 are different from an AR-15 too
The additional parts to complete add up fast, especially if you use top quality parts. That is why the AR-10 SPR I built and posted a few pages back is so expensive - there are very few stock parts in that gun...the barrel alone was pushing $600. The result is a gun that prints sub-MOA - it's groups are less than a quarter at 100 yards with a middle of the road scope and it's not even broke in yet.
It all depends on your objective - kinda like a Supra in this respect - do you want accurate, reliable or cheap, you get to pick two
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=62&t=378850
reading that right now, and cheap isn't in my vocabulary when it comes to guns
---------- Post added at 12:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:49 AM ----------
This kit you have posted, if I purchased that, all I would need would be barrel/guard and stock huh?
reading that right now, and cheap isn't in my vocabulary when it comes to guns
---------- Post added at 12:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:49 AM ----------
jdub;1630828 said:Mario - the big thing to watch out for when you go to .308 in a AR platform is compatibility. For what I've seen, there are 4 different patterns used with Armalite and DPMS as the most common (FYI Noveske and Aeroprecision are the Armalite pattern). All the patterns are different and will not exchange - this applies to more than the internal parts...i.e. a DPMS barrel extension is different from Armalite and different from a Stoner, you can not swap barrels across the different uppers as a result. Magazines are different too - Armalite is based on the M-14 magazine - DPMS is more along the lines of an AR-15 (MagPul makes DPMS compatible mags, but not Armalite). The barrel nut threads are also different, making the attachment of the forestocks incompatible. The bottom line is to stick with whatever pattern you choose in a AR .308 gun. This is a huge difference from the AR-15 world in that AR-15's are pretty much standardized across manufacturers.
The AR-10 is an Armalite trademark - the only gun you can call an AR-10 is therefore Armalite - it does have a majority of it's parts common to the AR-15 (this is why I chose it for my builds). All the AR .308 guns are more expensive than an AR-15, both for a complete gun or for parts - availability of parts is also a lot less and the compatibility issue is a real player. If you are going with a basic gun, buying factory is usually cheaper - if you are planning to do a lot of customization, a build will be cheaper since you are not buying parts you don't need. I went with the latter route on the two AR-10 guns I posted here and used an Armalite Gunsmithing Kit:
http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/ARMGSK10A4.aspx
Of course, the tools you need to assemble an AR-10 are different from an AR-15 too
The additional parts to complete add up fast, especially if you use top quality parts. That is why the AR-10 SPR I built and posted a few pages back is so expensive - there are very few stock parts in that gun...the barrel alone was pushing $600. The result is a gun that prints sub-MOA - it's groups are less than a quarter at 100 yards with a middle of the road scope and it's not even broke in yet.
It all depends on your objective - kinda like a Supra in this respect - do you want accurate, reliable or cheap, you get to pick two
This kit you have posted, if I purchased that, all I would need would be barrel/guard and stock huh?
^^^ That is an excellent thread and illustrates exactly what I was saying. One other thing to point out: The back-up sights are a bit more difficult to make work. All the gas block type folding front sights are made for an AR-15 and are not tall enough for any of the AR .308 guns - one exception is the Midwest front BUS made for the AR-10. My solution was to use a front rail mounted sight - this puts it on the same plane as the rear sight, so you can use whatever you want - works great on a rifle length forestock, giving you plenty of distance between the front/rear sights for accuracy. Even so, I had to take off about a 1/16" from the front post on a PRi sight to get the adjustment range I wanted.
Handgrip and both BUS as well....some misc small parts like the gas block & tube, stock buffer tube, buffer and spring. You will need tools like the upper receiver vice block, barrel nut wrench, and forestock wrench (depending on the one you get). I would go with a 1-10 twist barrel - a bit better for stabilizing 168 Gr + bullets - the Noveske stainless polyangle barrels are top notch. Rainier Arms has barrels made for them from Shilen blanks in a light weight profile that are a bit less expensive, but I have not used one yet:
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/browse&category=arvariants_barrels
Rainier also has Noveske barrels that cost less than what DSG Arms wants. A Noveske barrel comes with the gas block & tube - $75 you won't have to spend. An 18" barrel with a rifle length forestock would be a sweet shooter
That kit comes with a tactical trigger group - with minor adjustments, it's pretty nice
Handgrip and both BUS as well....some misc small parts like the gas block & tube, stock buffer tube, buffer and spring. You will need tools like the upper receiver vice block, barrel nut wrench, and forestock wrench (depending on the one you get). I would go with a 1-10 twist barrel - a bit better for stabilizing 168 Gr + bullets - the Noveske stainless polyangle barrels are top notch. Rainier Arms has barrels made for them from Shilen blanks in a light weight profile that are a bit less expensive, but I have not used one yet:
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/browse&category=arvariants_barrels
Rainier also has Noveske barrels that cost less than what DSG Arms wants. A Noveske barrel comes with the gas block & tube - $75 you won't have to spend. An 18" barrel with a rifle length forestock would be a sweet shooter
That kit comes with a tactical trigger group - with minor adjustments, it's pretty nice
- Status