The Notorious 90 Degree hose

[SideWinderGX]

Good info to know! I bought a whole ton of the constant pressure clamps (third picture) a while back and went to town replacing all the screw clamps I put on the car since I bought it...sick of hoses getting chewed up and doubly sick of recurring leaks (expansion and such).

Will work well if sized right...exactly what I wanted to know and hear. I'll find the tightest fitting and go to town. Thanks!

 

[Alec]

Clamps to stay away from are those that have the rack part of the gear cut right through the band, you need to use ones that are solid on the inside.

BAD

GOOD

Stock constant tension clamps will work well if sized right.

I can't tell the difference between the top two.

 

[IJ.]

See how the top one the rack is cut right through to the inside?

 

[Alec]

See how the top one the rack is cut right through to the inside?

The rack? I'm confused at what you mean. They both look the same to me.

 

[IJ.]

The rack? I'm confused at what you mean. They both look the same to me.

A worm clamp is a rack and pinion just like the steering in our cars...

Pinion is the part you turn to tighten, the rack is cut into the band, on the top one the teeth are cut right through the band and can be seen inside on the 2nd one they can't be seen as they're not cut through.

The "problem" with Silicone hose and pic 1 is the silicone is soft and squeezes through the slots then as you tighten the band it slices that part of the hose off and creates a fail point.

 

[lumpy]

The slots for the screw are exposed on the hose side allowing the screw to chew into hoses. The 2nd one looks like it's made so the screw/holes won't come in contact wth the hose. I used the last kind on mine when I put it back on, but mine looked like it was double re-inforced.



Edit: IJ was quicker.

 

[SideWinderGX]

I'm bored in class, you're lucky

That red portion will cut into the hose when tightened down...it comes into direct contact with it.

There are no serrations for the screw clamp to grip to on the inside slider of that clamp (the outside slider has the serrations), therefore it will not cut into the hose when you tighten it down.

 

[7EMPIRE]

i used one of those crappy clamps for the side that goes to the block and then used a stock clamp for the back of the water pump housing

 

[Drake69]

Subscribed. Will root around underneath and check the condition/leak-worthiness of mine soon.

 

[89nasupra]

Thanks Ian. Now you are going to have me going hunt down those clamps and change them all on my car.

I know it may be expensive but waht about getting some AN type fittings and a piece of stainless steel tubing and bending it in to a 90deg. angle then tighten it all down. It's all metal to metal connections so it should never leak again.

 

[IJ.]

Expansion would be an issue, would probably leak as the 90 is so short.

 

[89nasupra]

Yeah true, plus the unions are around 1.75 to 2 inches long so it would not line up right. What about a tubing 90deg ell with a union of the side closer to the block or cut the bend off the hard line and put a tubing 90 there also and make up the difference with some tubing?

 

[IJ.]

Can't really think of anything more effective than a silicone hose with the correct clamps, even the stock rubber hose as long as it's sheilded from the Exhaust manifold heat will live in there.

 

[89nasupra]

True, for the price of the parts at my cost you could buy 8 hoses. Not to mention mor trouble than it's probably worth.

 

[GrimJack]

I'm pretty sure that the reason the stock rubber hoses crap out is due to a leaky CPS dropping oil on it all the damn time.

 

[supraguy@aol]

I'm pretty sure that the reason the stock rubber hoses crap out is due to a leaky CPS dropping oil on it all the damn time.

Yeah- that front POS is always swollen and spongy from the oil contamination.

 

[IJ.]

None of mine have had oil leaks there but I've lost a couple of hoses over the years always put it down to reflected heat as it stopped after I had the header Ceramic coated.

 

[GrimJack]

LOL - I'm the opposite - I had the header ceramic coated right away, and I still lost a couple. But my damn CPS needed to be rebuilt, the inner seal was letting it leak oil on everything below it.

 

[juncboi]

What about wrapping it with some tubing that shields heat. They look like the plastic wire tubing but is actually thin metal. I saw some at a local tuning shop and thought about running my wires through them. Now I'm thinking about covering up the hose to help shield it from heat. If I did do it, I think I would get a diameter big enough to go over the clamp too but not sure if that layer of air is good or not. Anyone?

 

[SideWinderGX]

If you wanted to do that doing just the part of the hose that is not covered by the clamps should be fine. The oil/heat leaked onto the clamp and the hose beneath the clamp is minimal and the heat shielding should disperse everything else.

Although I'd still just go with a silicone hose