The Mistress
- Thread starter GrimJack
- Start date
It's not so much the AEM itself, it the fact that they use the Bosch sensor, and the ntk sensor is supposed to be far better. Takes a bigger bite out of your wallet, that's for sure.
Heh... simple, actually, we were in a bit of a rush and I haven't finalized the dash design I'm going to use anyway.
I like that idea way better because its right there in plain sight. Can look at speedo tach and afr all at 1 glance.
If you dont mind losing the clock could always cut out a spot for it there. That is my second alternative but i like my clock at the moment.
If you dont mind losing the clock could always cut out a spot for it there. That is my second alternative but i like my clock at the moment.
Ya, must admit, I like the clock too... it's really deep to try to mount in the dash, too. I don't think you could put it in the gauge cluster without sticking out the front by quite a bit. Could go in the center console locations though.
Ive got that same unit and I like it a lot. They say you have to calibrate the sensor every month or whatever, but in the few months I have had it the calibration hasn't been needed. I have gone to calibrate it and it didn't need any adjustment.
I think the FJO wideband has a similar type of display, but it is going to cost you a lot more. Unfortunately the update speed of the external display on the NGK is a bit slow.
I think the FJO wideband has a similar type of display, but it is going to cost you a lot more. Unfortunately the update speed of the external display on the NGK is a bit slow.
Well, if you open the case the display is going to be a simple board that you could extend the wires to.
So... updates... hrm.
Changed the upper steering column for a 91+ unit. Not so happy with that, to be honest, I think I'll switch back. Probably going to mod my old 89 unit so all the controls still work with the newer under dash bits. The newer system doesn't feel as solid as the old one - maybe the one I got is worn or something, but it wobbles up and down by a bit. My 89 unit is rock solid.
Changed all the lock cylinders to the newer style from 91+ as well. Now I need to find a fancy Toyota key and get it cut to match. While I was in the doors, I remounted my speaker crossovers, and finalized the wiring to the speakers. Never was happy with the original mounting system I came up with for them... now they are actually screwed into the door, on the metal skeleton. There's enough room in the lower front to mount them out of the way of the glass mechanism.
Finally drilled out the last plastic panel in the hatch for the battery cut off switch and installed the panel. The hatch is finally starting it's journey to respectability to match the rest of the car!
Traced down my problem with the rear window defog - turned out to be a burned connector in the top driver side of the hatch, right where the hatch connects to the body wiring, but on the hatch side. Looks like a fair bit of water got in there somehow when it was on, caused some shorting, and burned out that pin on the plug. How the wiring for the 3rd brake light continued to work is a mystery. Pulled the entire hatch harness out the bottom, unwrapped it, cut out the fried wiring, put in new stuff, wrapped it all back up in the stock foam and re-taped the harness - would you believe Toyota taped those wires, then wrapped them in foam, then taped 'em again? Sounds like the design engineer on that bit was just as paranoid as, well, me.
While I was on the trail of electrical gremlins, my buddy brought over his '68 Lincoln and we fixed his lack of headlights. Turns out the headlight switch on those has an integrated circuit breaker, and the damn thing couldn't take the power required by modern lights. Which is really odd, because the wire they used for the lights is MONSTROUS! Easily 4 times the size of the Toyota headlight wiring, anyway. So I put in a modern day relay triggered by the old headlight circuit, and now he can drive after dark.
Changed the upper steering column for a 91+ unit. Not so happy with that, to be honest, I think I'll switch back. Probably going to mod my old 89 unit so all the controls still work with the newer under dash bits. The newer system doesn't feel as solid as the old one - maybe the one I got is worn or something, but it wobbles up and down by a bit. My 89 unit is rock solid.
Changed all the lock cylinders to the newer style from 91+ as well. Now I need to find a fancy Toyota key and get it cut to match. While I was in the doors, I remounted my speaker crossovers, and finalized the wiring to the speakers. Never was happy with the original mounting system I came up with for them... now they are actually screwed into the door, on the metal skeleton. There's enough room in the lower front to mount them out of the way of the glass mechanism.
Finally drilled out the last plastic panel in the hatch for the battery cut off switch and installed the panel. The hatch is finally starting it's journey to respectability to match the rest of the car!
Traced down my problem with the rear window defog - turned out to be a burned connector in the top driver side of the hatch, right where the hatch connects to the body wiring, but on the hatch side. Looks like a fair bit of water got in there somehow when it was on, caused some shorting, and burned out that pin on the plug. How the wiring for the 3rd brake light continued to work is a mystery. Pulled the entire hatch harness out the bottom, unwrapped it, cut out the fried wiring, put in new stuff, wrapped it all back up in the stock foam and re-taped the harness - would you believe Toyota taped those wires, then wrapped them in foam, then taped 'em again? Sounds like the design engineer on that bit was just as paranoid as, well, me.
While I was on the trail of electrical gremlins, my buddy brought over his '68 Lincoln and we fixed his lack of headlights. Turns out the headlight switch on those has an integrated circuit breaker, and the damn thing couldn't take the power required by modern lights. Which is really odd, because the wire they used for the lights is MONSTROUS! Easily 4 times the size of the Toyota headlight wiring, anyway. So I put in a modern day relay triggered by the old headlight circuit, and now he can drive after dark.
Pulled apart the a-pillar interior and the roof panel to properly run the wiring for my microphone today. Put the 4" test pipe back in for the winter, too. That was enough car work for the day! 
Hey Dave, did you end up tinting that wideband display yet? If not, and you needed a source for a tiny piece of tint, I could help you out there.
Nope, haven't done it yet... if I drove more at night, I'm sure I'd have buckled and taken care of it by now.
Now I'm really going to have to take care of it... lack of Daylight Savings Time means I'm driving home in the dark after work.
Just ware you sun glasses at night
HEY this deserves a song now too
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9p0Ac5bLlI
HEY this deserves a song now too
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9p0Ac5bLlI
The rubber flapper valves in them eventually rot and fall apart. Lets in road noise, smells, etc...