The infamous 1jz breakup: tried alot, getting no where

yhatzee89

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
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San Antonio, TX
RBWTrans;1851392 said:
Those are the best that you can buy for anything under boost. I run them in my Mitsubishi's at pressures upwards of 30psi and my boss even uses them in his 3600hp promod (that's a 700+ ci hemi pushing 65lbs of boost. Car runs a 3.7 in the 1/8th mile @ 212mph).

We should all know better by now, but we all had to hear it from somebody to know it.

k20 - IMHO, iridiums are for people that just like to spend too much money. The Iridium plugs still hold too much heat and, while the tip may last longer, the porcelin still suffers from the same extreme cylinder pressures and heat that your cheaper copper core plugs do, and still have to be changed just as often. Running the cheaper, copper core plugs lets me feel better about swapping them out every other oil change just for GP's.
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So are these a No-Go?
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Beals

Beals

JZA70 TT-R
Feb 3, 2009
591
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Alberta, Canada
what are you running for injectors? and you have a stock pump, turning up the boost could be the problem, you should get someone to rev the car up and see if you can hear the fuel pump whining from outside the tank. could be a fuel issue, old pump/dirty injectors.
 
kornfedmk3

kornfedmk3

New Member
Dec 9, 2011
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des moines, IA
I'm running stock injectors and pump. even if I lightly increase throttle it still does it would it still be fuel related? I'm so confused on this car.
 
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
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Kuwait
You will have to check the fuel pressure to rule it out.
Have you tried a different igniter yet? pulled the plugs on the igniter and checked for recessed pins? If the harness was extended you should see how it was extened i.e. spliced, soldered or twisted togeter and covered with electrical tape. could be an intermittent wire to the igniter.
 
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JPsToyota

JPsToyota

Member
Sep 17, 2008
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East-Central, FL
The vid you posted looks like an electrical issue for sure. Tach cuts and motor cuts at same time, that particular part of your problem should have nothing to do with fuel/spark. Have you tried swapping ECUs? Sounds like it could be a wiring/ECU problem with the swap. Don't know why the tach drops out like that, if the ECU just threw a limiter at you (for boost or whatever) the tach doesn't drop out.

EDIT - Could possibly be a cam sensor/crank position sensor problem? I've never had one go out on me, but possibly the ECU is losing track of the position of the motor from the crank position sensor dropping out? Crank sensor is on the bottom/front of the motor near the timing tensioner / behind the crank pulley area. There are two wires going down to it IIRC. Check to make sure everything is ok down there, hopefully someone can chime in with some experience with sensor problems. Had a Nissan do something similar when it's CPS went out. Don't know if the cam sensors will do that, if I get time I will pull mine and see what the motor does above 4k.
 
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seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Nov 6, 2008
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JPsToyota;1928789 said:
The vid you posted looks like an electrical issue for sure. Tach cuts and motor cuts at same time, that particular part of your problem should have nothing to do with fuel/spark. Have you tried swapping ECUs? Sounds like it could be a wiring/ECU problem with the swap. Don't know why the tach drops out like that, if the ECU just threw a limiter at you (for boost or whatever) the tach doesn't drop out.

EDIT - Could possibly be a cam sensor/crank position sensor problem? I've never had one go out on me, but possibly the ECU is losing track of the position of the motor from the crank position sensor dropping out? Crank sensor is on the bottom/front of the motor near the timing tensioner / behind the crank pulley area. There are two wires going down to it IIRC. Check to make sure everything is ok down there, hopefully someone can chime in with some experience with sensor problems. Had a Nissan do something similar when it's CPS went out. Don't know if the cam sensors will do that, if I get time I will pull mine and see what the motor does above 4k.
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Could be, I did point out before that his CPS needs to be replaced as it's leaking oil.
 
kornfedmk3

kornfedmk3

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Dec 9, 2011
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des moines, IA
Well the omly code I get is 14. if my cps or crank sensor were bad wouldn't it throw a code right away? I do get a code when it hits the cut but it disappears right away as you can see in the videos. is there a way to check the igniter? or do I have to try another one? I'm still trying to find someone local with one.
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Nov 6, 2008
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kornfedmk3;1928994 said:
Well the omly code I get is 14. if my cps or crank sensor were bad wouldn't it throw a code right away? I do get a code when it hits the cut but it disappears right away as you can see in the videos. is there a way to check the igniter? or do I have to try another one? I'm still trying to find someone local with one.
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From what I've seen if it is incorrectly installed (Number 1 at TDC If I remember correctly) then you'll have big problems. Yours could just be leaking so much it maybe doesn't cause it to code. I'm replacing mine currectly as well....
 
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
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Kuwait
Apparently the igniter from a 2J will work too so it should be easier to find one of those to try.
Thet are expensive so try and swap one first before you buy one.
some part numbers
89620-14460 1J
89620-24080 2J
89621-22020 2J
89621-22030 2J
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Nov 6, 2008
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f00g00;1929400 said:
Apparently the igniter from a 2J will work too so it should be easier to find one of those to try.
Thet are expensive so try and swap one first before you buy one.
some part numbers
89620-14460 1J
89620-24080 2J
89621-22020 2J
89621-22030 2J
Click to expand...

You too are correct, I am currently running a 2J ignitor. The only down fall is that it doesn't line up with the brackets of the 1J ignitor.
 
kornfedmk3

kornfedmk3

New Member
Dec 9, 2011
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des moines, IA
Today i was looking around at the wiring and alot of the wires coming from the igniter have connectors around them like they were cut and put together. i have a picture of two black and orange wires coming off the harness one of them is connected to the ignter plug, the other one is cut and dangling there.

Anyone have any idea of what i should do with this? it is the 4 wire plug and all of them are connected color to color but this black and orange strip one that is the same color as one already connected is just hanging out. im starting to think i might have to pull the harness out and go through it.
 
te72

te72

Classifieds Moderator
Staff member
Mar 26, 2006
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yhatzee89;1928413 said:
So are these a No-Go?
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Waste of money IMO. Still running the same copper NGK's, BKR5E if I remember correctly. Just changed them a few weeks ago since one of them was breaking up after being in there for... a long while. On a side note, the dollar must have fallen a bit more, those $1.97 plugs I bought last year cost me $2.50 each this last time around.
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

New Member
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te72;1931786 said:
Waste of money IMO. Still running the same copper NGK's, BKR5E if I remember correctly. Just changed them a few weeks ago since one of them was breaking up after being in there for... a long while. On a side note, the dollar must have fallen a bit more, those $1.97 plugs I bought last year cost me $2.50 each this last time around.[/QUOTE

Agreed,
Also I'm not sure and I can't really look either I just had surgery.
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kornfedmk3

kornfedmk3

New Member
Dec 9, 2011
140
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des moines, IA
well me and a buddy were trying figure this out and we connected it to the blavk wire. he says that's where it went well when I started it the idle was liwer then usual (usually around 1100rpms) I can tell it was about 800-900rpms. but the problem was the rpm gauge stopped working? so we disconnected it and the gauge worked again. I have no idea what this wire is for becuase there is two black with orange stripe wires wrapped together but one you can tell in the picture is not connected to anything.
 
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