The day has FINALLY come...
- Thread starter suprarx7nut
- Start date
Just changed the air filter and holy crap was the old one dirty. I'll post a pic. It was covered 50% in greyish/black.
Tranny fluid change tomorrow. MT90 for the tranny, Ford LSD for the diff, as recommended by some writeup one here.
*Edit, pic posted.
I've never seen an air filter this dirty.
Tranny fluid change tomorrow. MT90 for the tranny, Ford LSD for the diff, as recommended by some writeup one here.
*Edit, pic posted.
I've never seen an air filter this dirty.
Last edited:
i love the all natural supra stick, i pulled off the oem hood struts off my 1jz front clip and the damn thing holds! i finally returned my moms broom back to her. investing in new hood struts are well worth it! no more "oops i knocked the supra stick over" *ouch my head hurts*
the VERY FIRST THING I bought for my Supra was hood struts...
It's just one of those things that without it, it felt ghetto as all hell and I wouldn't put up with it AT ALL...
It's just one of those things that without it, it felt ghetto as all hell and I wouldn't put up with it AT ALL...
Ya, hood struts are among one of the first parts I'll be buying.
Others would be
-hatch moldings, upper and bottom
-door sensors(not a priority)
-TSRM(big priority)
-oh, and a torque wrench
Anyone have suggestions for a decent torque wrench under $160?
I'd love a snap on, but I'm on a budget and there are other things that need financial attention. If there seems to be nothing in between, I'll just buy a craftsman for 50 and be done with it.
Others would be
-hatch moldings, upper and bottom
-door sensors(not a priority)
-TSRM(big priority)
-oh, and a torque wrench
Anyone have suggestions for a decent torque wrench under $160?
I'd love a snap on, but I'm on a budget and there are other things that need financial attention. If there seems to be nothing in between, I'll just buy a craftsman for 50 and be done with it.
Nick M said:
I really think after 271 thousand miles.. that's enough of a testament to the 7mge.... who said Supra's weren't reliable!
The interior looks rather good for that much miles... and the front lip surprisingly is in super good condition...
I agree, the car looks to be in great shape...I just wonder if it's beauty isn't only skin deep...
keep up the good work man, and the maintenance. I don't know if you already posted but I'd consider bring the car in for some tests to make sure you know where you sit
-leak down test
-coolant system pressure test
-compression test
That'll let you know if you have BHG,Leaking coolant hoses, how good your rings/valves are sealing. If everything checks out then you should be rockin' for a good while =)
-leak down test
-coolant system pressure test
-compression test
That'll let you know if you have BHG,Leaking coolant hoses, how good your rings/valves are sealing. If everything checks out then you should be rockin' for a good while =)
Thanks guys. Ya, I'll be bringing it in for those tests later this week or next. If I do have any issues, I want to get them taken care of before I go off to school in 3 weeks.
I got redline MT-90 for the tranny today and royal purple for the diff. (75W-90)
Changing those this evening.
Brakes are next on the list. I'm hoping the rotors just need machining. Otherwise I'll be going cheap on those (prostop) until I'm sure I'm clear of any BHG issues. Then I'll get the OEM from Toyota.
TobyCat said:
I got redline MT-90 for the tranny today and royal purple for the diff. (75W-90)
Changing those this evening.
Brakes are next on the list. I'm hoping the rotors just need machining. Otherwise I'll be going cheap on those (prostop) until I'm sure I'm clear of any BHG issues. Then I'll get the OEM from Toyota.
At least get OEM toyota pads...the autozone (Duralast?) brand really suckkkk...they fade almost instantly, they squeal/grind like crazy, and the amount of dust that comes off of them is insane...rotors are another story, you should be fine with the cheapies.
Duelly(sp?) noted. Although I keep hearing that OEM pads will tear through the cheap rotors really fast. :dunno: Although I Suppose that'd be ok, I plan on getting the OEM rotors and pads either way in 6 months or less.
Sidenote: Tranny oil was VERY, VERY, VERY low. There appears to be some oil leaking from where the tranny meets the driveshaft. And those bolts were insanely hard to remove. Required a 5 lb. sledge and a 6' torque extension rod(steel bar).
Sidenote: Tranny oil was VERY, VERY, VERY low. There appears to be some oil leaking from where the tranny meets the driveshaft. And those bolts were insanely hard to remove. Required a 5 lb. sledge and a 6' torque extension rod(steel bar).
royal purple isn't the best oil out there... (I'm being nice), I'd stick with the ford gear oil and additive for the diff as it helps worn diffs, and keeps them QUIET unlike many synthetics...
pull the stock rotors and check if they're in spec, if they are, have em turned and reuse them! The stock rotors are fine as long as they're in spec and not warped (warping is fixed with turning em...). Brakes are not something to cheap out on...
Don't get me started on royal purple, I have a healthy hatred for their products even before reading up on them...
pull the stock rotors and check if they're in spec, if they are, have em turned and reuse them! The stock rotors are fine as long as they're in spec and not warped (warping is fixed with turning em...). Brakes are not something to cheap out on...
Don't get me started on royal purple, I have a healthy hatred for their products even before reading up on them...
Poodles said:
Ya, I tried the ford oil, but they didn't have any of the 75-90, just cheap 80-90 or the synthetic 80-90 for 23 bucks a quart. Which exact type is it that you mean? They had a bunch in a catalog, all available to order. None had LSD in the title, however.
How exactly do I check if they are in spec? I can see reflections in the rotor are distorted. They are definitely warped. (possibly due to over-torqued lugs, they were on REALLY tight) From what I have gathered, there needs to be enough rotor left so that when machined the rotor still has a bevel on the edge left. :dunno:
As for the fluids, they make a very slight improvement, but the tranny will need some work eventually. 4th is incredibly quiet and I think perfect, 2nd is noisy, 5th makes me sound like I have those racing transmissions with all the whine. I'll probably take it to Aamco or something to get a mechanic's opinion.
But first I need to do the brake work. The pads appear to be about 50%. Hopefully machining the rotors will be all that i need.
the rotors are easy to pull, and any auto parts store that cuts them will check the spec for you...
the diff takes 90 weight gear oil, then get a bottle of the friction additive...
the diff takes 90 weight gear oil, then get a bottle of the friction additive...
I got the rotors off and they were about as thin as can be. .828 and .831. WAY too thin to machine. Got new ones from napa(trustop) and now all is well. I know they're cheap, but its only a temp fix until I make sure I won't need my funds for any other repairs.
ANY RECOMENDATIONS FOR A MID-RANGE TORQUE WRENCH?
I'm simply not spending 200+ on a wrench until my HG blows
Anyone know of anything better than a craftsman, but cheaper than a $300 snap-on?
I know they're cheap, but its only a temp fix until I make sure I won't need my funds for any other repairs.ANY RECOMENDATIONS FOR A MID-RANGE TORQUE WRENCH?
I'm simply not spending 200+ on a wrench until my HG blows
Anyone know of anything better than a craftsman, but cheaper than a $300 snap-on?