Targa top is leaking like crazy. assuming it is the seals. Where can i buy the seals from. Is there another way to tell if the seals are bad ?
targa top seals
- Thread starter turbodriz
- Start date
It's usually the drip rail to targa seal, not the actual seals that are leaking. It's best to replace the seals anyway since you'll need to remove them and they may be damaged from removal.
hvyman;1887753 said:
Damn straight... had that issue on mine and was tempted to just buy new drip rails as I had to cut the old seals out because they were glued in. :3d_frown:
Ya that happened on my first car. Spent like a hour just scraping it out.
Current car hasnt leaked since i bought it over 4 years ago..
Current car hasnt leaked since i bought it over 4 years ago..
hvyman;1887753 said:
Same on mine, was pulling what's left of my hair out trying to get it off. Oddly enough it took a dremel with a tiny bit to get it off.
Little tip I got years ago and tried with success. Mine were leaking as well and I rubbed vaseline all over them, and supposedly it softens and for lack of a better word pluffies them up 
I don't don't how long it'll last. I painted mine about 6 months after I did that, but in that time they never leaked.
I don't don't how long it'll last. I painted mine about 6 months after I did that, but in that time they never leaked.
Good tip. There's some silicone sprays etc. out there that will keep your rubber from hardening over time. I think you're supposed to wipe your body seals with it once a year at least.
hvyman;1898545 said:
Note taken. Will look into getting new ones
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
3M makes a wheel that removes pin striping and stickers, its quite consumable, (i.e. buy more than one) but it works well without destroying the paint.OfnaRcR4;1887782 said:
I mentioned something a while ago, but it had many details, and did use RTV.yhatzee89;1887886 said:
I agree, if they aren't too expensive.hvyman;1898545 said:
Here is a quick repair of the silicone if you HAVE to do it immediately and its going to rain soon.
1. Clean all the oils off of your seals where they are to be repaired.
2. Scuff the seals specifically where you want to apply Silicone.
3. Clean the debris out from where you scuffed.
4. Tape off the area where the silicone RTV might get on the paint.
5. Build silicone into the shape you need. Let it set up a bit 2-5 minutes, maybe more. Saliva is just about the best medium to move it around with your fingers, and to keep it from sticking to your fingers.
6. Once it is close to the shape you need, place saran-wrap over the opposing item to be sealed, make sure the silicone RTV will interfere with the other part between .125 inches, and .188 inches. If you must close the opposing item, place saran-wrap over that too and be prepared to reform the silicone until it sets up. It usually takes as long as 24 hours. So disconnecting the battery might be required.
Oddly enough RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing... BUT, room temps are not what catalyzes it at all. Moisture is what helps RTV Silicone set up, so once its in place and the shape you like a light squirt with a water squirt bottle helps a bit. Don't overdo it, it only needs to be moist.
I know this is all less desirable than new seals, but sometimes you need a solution NOW and cant wait for the seals to be shipped. Good luck and keep us posted.
I just did mine, might want to consider getting new stainless screws also... I pulled mine up and I had 4 out of 6 screws from the front seal that where badly rusted.... 3 had missing heads.
Orion ZyGarian;1887875 said:
This is an old tip that works. I always sprayed my seals after wiping them down whenever I put the top back on. The roof never leaked a drop the entire time I owned the car and after 23 years the seals still looked and felt new.