LMAO yep!lanternman said:
The old T2 sized turbos would go to 220K but even then they were having reliability issues!
I think you'd need a scatter shield to try it with a T04
!T4 Upgrade - HELP me if you've done it.
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The old T2 sized turbos would go to 220K but even then they were having reliability issues!
I think you'd need a scatter shield to try it with a T04
!
IJ, its a small detail... LOL... Who cares anyway, he's going to get a $250 Ebay turbo, cuz all turbos are the same... :shrugs:
dang dude, shots at the new guy on his own thread - now theres a low blow. I was being dramatic. Way to welcome the new guy. Guess I wont stick around much.
Welcome to the internet... :bigthumb:
Next time you ask for help, and you get an answer, dont RE-ask the question because its not the answer you want... *or whatever the case may be* There are alot of guys on here that are making big power, and when you got one of them answering your questions, try hard not to patronize him...
If you really want to know, read... Listen... Pay attention... And dont throw a temper tantrum...
Welcome to SupraMania...
Next time you ask for help, and you get an answer, dont RE-ask the question because its not the answer you want... *or whatever the case may be* There are alot of guys on here that are making big power, and when you got one of them answering your questions, try hard not to patronize him...
If you really want to know, read... Listen... Pay attention... And dont throw a temper tantrum...
Welcome to SupraMania...
IJ. said:Jake: LMAO I wasn't having a shot at you
I know you werent buddy :aigo: :naughty: :aigo:
You guys know the ebay turbos use a garrett centre cartridge and internals right? So the only real difference is the name one the boxes.
eric
eric
Sorry, didn’t mean to hurt your feelings man, just trying to absorb all the information from as many great sources as I can. Can you blame me? Everyone is inferior to everyone in some way shape or form. In this area I am to you, but I guarantee, no matter how old someone is there are experiences out there to be had and to learn from. This is, however, no reason to treat someone with disrespect.
I deeply respect you and all of your knowledge.
And we have some how deviated from the topic. Let’s conclude this discussion of "feelings". OK?
I deeply respect you and all of your knowledge.
And we have some how deviated from the topic. Let’s conclude this discussion of "feelings". OK?
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SimpleIcon said:
Feelings not hurt man... Your point taken... Compliment appreciated... And my ultimate goal with you, and every other Supra MKIII owner is this: reach your goal, and unlock the potential in that 7M motor... I've had cats bend over sideways to teach me, and I have every intention to pass on any and every secret and knowledge I have to help a PASSIONATE Supra owner... And Im not the only one, Im just being vocal about it... I got alot of love for alot of these cats here and over on SupraForums... So like I said: read, listen, ask questions, learn, and pass on what you know... Peace!
Stretch said:
Have you seen the pics of the XSpower spliting in half? :nono:
BTW: you know GEO Storm's suspension is built/designed by Lotus? :icon_razz
*point* But Lotus makes a kick ass car! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
HIGH QUALITY XSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS-POWA!
LOL! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
LOL! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
You sure those circled areas aren't where the guy pried it with his screwdriver because he wanted to open is up? Notice how clean the impeller wheel is also? I doubt if it caused the housing to damage itself the wheel would look so good.
eric
eric
Stretch: Have a look how evenly spaced they are they're welds (there's also a heat affected area if you enlarge the pic).
I googled this problem, there are several instances of this happening. One to many in my book... Even if those spot welds were just plyer marks, it definatly shouldn't pull apart like that... with plyers... and I dont see any saw marks
(thinking out loud)
on the other hand, I can do some aluminum welding... if the internals are in sound shape and the housing sux, i suppose, if im careful, I can weld a good bead around it... except, flow might be slightly decreased if the bead is too hot. ... hmm on the other hand: Aluminum is hard to weld, maybe i should just pay for a nice snail...
(thinking out loud)
on the other hand, I can do some aluminum welding... if the internals are in sound shape and the housing sux, i suppose, if im careful, I can weld a good bead around it... except, flow might be slightly decreased if the bead is too hot. ... hmm on the other hand: Aluminum is hard to weld, maybe i should just pay for a nice snail...
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something that applies to anything in life is that most cheap things usually end up costing you more in the long run anyway....it applies to anybody, whether your a strapped student or an oil sheik. There are a few exceptions, but when it actually has to do something important more often than not it's going to come back and slap you in the face.
I know you look at it in it's simplest perspective of "it's an air compressor"...but what about the material used? what about the manufacturing process? how strict is the quality control and quality of workforce behind the product? what kind of reputation does the product carry and what is the general customer satisfaction level (you can't count the 16 year old know-it-alls like myself who could screw up an oil change)
hell, my grandma used to inspect mil-spec bearings for jet engines that would turn nearly two complete revolutions with a light breath...and all they were were a good $50 of titanium. The end cost with labor was nearly $10,000 a PIECE! I'm sure you could build a turbo for $50 given 1st year college level skills and a little CNC experience...but would it be the same as the work of a few 4-year mechanical engineers with thousands of dollars of manufacturing and testing equipment? I know your pinched on money, because I'm in the same position...but it's almost like the $1 tools you find at the hardware store. They are there plain and simply to grab your attention, even though you'll go through 50 of them before you bust that $25 one in the back.
A lot of people don't tell you "do this instead" because it just randomly popped into our head at the moment...usually when somebody tells you that it is because they have seen what has happened, or experienced it firsthand and want to keep people from blowing something up. And it doesn't stop at turbos...would you put $200 rods or pistons in your car? how about $150 cams? Would you put a wally world stereo in a car with $1500 of speakers? But then again it's your car...i wouldn't dream of skimping on a major component, or modifying something that I wasn't sure I could do successfully...you don't just suppose, you have to KNOW! If I did everything on an "i suppose" I'd be driving down the road listening for even the faintest abnormality...especially given my supra's reputation for kicking me in the balls when I throw cheap parts or crappy mods at it
wow...talk about rambling. I've gotta lay off the dew :eek3:
I know you look at it in it's simplest perspective of "it's an air compressor"...but what about the material used? what about the manufacturing process? how strict is the quality control and quality of workforce behind the product? what kind of reputation does the product carry and what is the general customer satisfaction level (you can't count the 16 year old know-it-alls like myself who could screw up an oil change)
hell, my grandma used to inspect mil-spec bearings for jet engines that would turn nearly two complete revolutions with a light breath...and all they were were a good $50 of titanium. The end cost with labor was nearly $10,000 a PIECE! I'm sure you could build a turbo for $50 given 1st year college level skills and a little CNC experience...but would it be the same as the work of a few 4-year mechanical engineers with thousands of dollars of manufacturing and testing equipment? I know your pinched on money, because I'm in the same position...but it's almost like the $1 tools you find at the hardware store. They are there plain and simply to grab your attention, even though you'll go through 50 of them before you bust that $25 one in the back.
A lot of people don't tell you "do this instead" because it just randomly popped into our head at the moment...usually when somebody tells you that it is because they have seen what has happened, or experienced it firsthand and want to keep people from blowing something up. And it doesn't stop at turbos...would you put $200 rods or pistons in your car? how about $150 cams? Would you put a wally world stereo in a car with $1500 of speakers? But then again it's your car...i wouldn't dream of skimping on a major component, or modifying something that I wasn't sure I could do successfully...you don't just suppose, you have to KNOW! If I did everything on an "i suppose" I'd be driving down the road listening for even the faintest abnormality...especially given my supra's reputation for kicking me in the balls when I throw cheap parts or crappy mods at it
wow...talk about rambling. I've gotta lay off the dew :eek3:
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Ok, so I guess you can say; Im convinced. It takes awhile for a stubborn person like me, but ive finally converted. No cheap crap.
but man, im still having trouble with what i really want in my turbo... i think im going to go for only 400 HP max. I don't want to be running my block on 20PSI every race. I want something a little more reliable... that will stick around for awhile. Even though its not a daily driver.
Maybe something slightly larger then my CT. What specs am I looking for? AR, Diameters, type/style (t4/t3, t4, GT)... I would probably learn from anything anyone says... so any help is appreciated.
Thanks to whoever helps.
but man, im still having trouble with what i really want in my turbo... i think im going to go for only 400 HP max. I don't want to be running my block on 20PSI every race. I want something a little more reliable... that will stick around for awhile. Even though its not a daily driver.
Maybe something slightly larger then my CT. What specs am I looking for? AR, Diameters, type/style (t4/t3, t4, GT)... I would probably learn from anything anyone says... so any help is appreciated.
Thanks to whoever helps.
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I wasn't bagging on you SI just found your 300K post a bit funny!
I try my best to help out when I can and if the 300K post was left stand soon it would become "a fact" that T04's can spin to 300K cos someone posted it on SM.... "Net Myths" start this easily.
While the EBay Turbos use Garrett CHRA's I'm just about certail they're not 1st's that would be going to the larger suppliers, that in mind at moderate boost levels would be fine and with a Comp Cover change should be reliable enough!
I had to weld a 90 degree bend onto my GT35 comp cover and the material is easily 5mm thick if you compare it to the pic I think it's thickest point may be 3mm if that and the way they're made is cast in 2 halves then tack welded and epoxied together to seal them.
The Cover in the pic wasn't "Pried Apart" If you enlarge the pic you can see they're tack welds, another "Net Myth" in the making......
I try my best to help out when I can and if the 300K post was left stand soon it would become "a fact" that T04's can spin to 300K cos someone posted it on SM.... "Net Myths" start this easily.
While the EBay Turbos use Garrett CHRA's I'm just about certail they're not 1st's that would be going to the larger suppliers, that in mind at moderate boost levels would be fine and with a Comp Cover change should be reliable enough!
I had to weld a 90 degree bend onto my GT35 comp cover and the material is easily 5mm thick if you compare it to the pic I think it's thickest point may be 3mm if that and the way they're made is cast in 2 halves then tack welded and epoxied together to seal them.
The Cover in the pic wasn't "Pried Apart" If you enlarge the pic you can see they're tack welds, another "Net Myth" in the making......