where does this plug goes to?? i just did my hg and it start but dies especially when i step on the gas....thanks
Suprarx7nut 's 7MGE BHG repair job done right (hopefully)
- Thread starter suprarx7nut
- Start date
Hello!
Im doing HG replacement now. Your writeup is really helpful to me
Have you experienced any problems? How much miles have passed since HG job?
Did you do any retorque of the studs?
Im doing HG replacement now. Your writeup is really helpful to me
Have you experienced any problems? How much miles have passed since HG job?
Did you do any retorque of the studs?
I did a retorque. I put about 40k miles on it. It was starting to leak coolant out the exhaust side like it did the first time. I think my block was warped.
I swapped for a gte that's treating me well. My ge served its purpose and was reliable for 3 years while I saved and researched for my swap.
Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
I swapped for a gte that's treating me well. My ge served its purpose and was reliable for 3 years while I saved and researched for my swap.
Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
how many miles did you wait before retorque?
did u tear apart the engine to see why it leaked? i have everything open now but block is in the car so it wont be machined. i cand decide between metal head gasket and graphite. only head is machined :/ using arps..
did u tear apart the engine to see why it leaked? i have everything open now but block is in the car so it wont be machined. i cand decide between metal head gasket and graphite. only head is machined :/ using arps..
100% if you are not machining block, use graphite. Every. Single. Time.
It's more forgiving. Mls (metal) gaskets are meant for surface finishes you can't get without working the block. Metal head gaskets are meant for machines block and head, nothing less.
I waited a few hundred miles. Longer than you're supposed to by far. I believe arp says 5 heat cycles. Mine was closer to 10 to 20.
When I retorqued my gte this summer, there were a couple that went much tighter the second time. That was a very convincing moment that makes me firmly believe that retorque is crucial.
As if the word of arp wasn't enough to convince me, Haha.
Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
It's more forgiving. Mls (metal) gaskets are meant for surface finishes you can't get without working the block. Metal head gaskets are meant for machines block and head, nothing less.
I waited a few hundred miles. Longer than you're supposed to by far. I believe arp says 5 heat cycles. Mine was closer to 10 to 20.
When I retorqued my gte this summer, there were a couple that went much tighter the second time. That was a very convincing moment that makes me firmly believe that retorque is crucial.
As if the word of arp wasn't enough to convince me, Haha.
Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
Huge necropost I know, but I followed this guide recently on my car and there's a few things I'd like to say.
1. You don't need to separate the throttle body, Y pipe and curvy bit of the intake manifold. Saves a little bit of time.
2. Take photos of all the vacuum lines and stuff and where they go, cause it's a pain trying to figure out.
3. REPLACE ALL MANIFOLD GASKETS. Mine wouldn't start after, and it was because of massive airleaks through the gaskets. The gaskets looked like they were fine, and so I tried to save a little money by not changing them. Big mistake.
4. Getting the timing right on it is a bit annoying, but not too difficult. Regardless, how I guestimated where to put the distributor rotor arm was by rotating the engine to TDC, then just pointing the arm near 11 o'clock (as when you push it in, the arm moves slightly due to the thread). Then set with a timing light.
5. Mark on the timing belt and timing gears, where it was when you took it all off. Made it easy to get the cams synchronised.
Solid guide though, it helped me a lot.
1. You don't need to separate the throttle body, Y pipe and curvy bit of the intake manifold. Saves a little bit of time.
2. Take photos of all the vacuum lines and stuff and where they go, cause it's a pain trying to figure out.
3. REPLACE ALL MANIFOLD GASKETS. Mine wouldn't start after, and it was because of massive airleaks through the gaskets. The gaskets looked like they were fine, and so I tried to save a little money by not changing them. Big mistake.
4. Getting the timing right on it is a bit annoying, but not too difficult. Regardless, how I guestimated where to put the distributor rotor arm was by rotating the engine to TDC, then just pointing the arm near 11 o'clock (as when you push it in, the arm moves slightly due to the thread). Then set with a timing light.
5. Mark on the timing belt and timing gears, where it was when you took it all off. Made it easy to get the cams synchronised.
Solid guide though, it helped me a lot.