Supra Slapping

SupraCool

Music Producer
Jul 28, 2008
28
0
0
Las Vegas
jdub;1142739 said:
You told me 5 quarts for the flush. I'm done with this.

If my dipstick says completely no oil, then I have to fill it back up with 5 quarts. Same thing as if I do a flush, no oil in the engine. Fill it up.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
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Valley of the Sun
You're with the crowd you belong with...you'll get all the help you'll need

clown.bmp
 

SupraCool

Music Producer
Jul 28, 2008
28
0
0
Las Vegas
Thank you guys for all your help so far.

I don't want this thread to turn into some kind of heated argument. I'm still learning and trying to figure out what's goin on with my car.

Worst case scenario I'll just take it to my local shop and have it diagnosed professionally.

SILV is this weekend, maybe I can find some answers there..
 

gaboonviper85

Supramania Contributor
Jan 13, 2008
3,236
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Northeast Philly
jdub;1142746 said:
You're with the crowd you belong with...you'll get all the help you'll need

clown.bmp

take it easy jdub....not only are we confused but I think he confuses himself...not everyone is as flawless as you keep in mind..
 

TooRandom

New Member
Jun 21, 2008
80
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0
Seattle, WA
Too lazy to go through all of the pages. If the noise is more of a ticking noise i'd check if your valves are loose. That causes a tick and you can usually tell if they are if you just wiggle them.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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www.google.com
SupraCool;1142744 said:
If my dipstick says completely no oil, then I have to fill it back up with 5 quarts. Same thing as if I do a flush, no oil in the engine. Fill it up.

thats not true at all. Just because the dipstick comes out dry doesnt mean theres no oil in the sump. Go check your oil level, make sure its not overfilled.
 

rawmk3

New Member
Jul 5, 2008
170
0
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IL
skee1234;1142450 said:
i have same thing just on cyl#2 mine is constaint up front but cant here at high rpm tho and mine only comes on after the motor warms up a bit

Initial thought is a rod knock. I had that in my old 86.5 started out sounding like valve chatter at higher RPM, then started becoming more noticable on low end. Just a thought, get a stethescope and listen to your bottom end.

SupraCool;1142562 said:
The noise popped its head up one day when I was speeding on the freeway. This whole thing has really confused the crap out of me.

I pulled up to a red light after I got off the freeway. I was sitting there, and then all of a sudden I heard a sputter and the car just died at idle. I checked my oil and it said I had none.

Which doesn't make sense at all because I just got doing an oil flush 2 weeks prior to that incident.


It can't be RK because the noise would be consistent with higher rpms, but its not. The noise goes on and off.

Not all rod knocks will be like that. Mine didnt make a single noise till the engine would warm up. And mine did the exact same thing you are saying. was out driving it ( valve chatter sound ticking like i needed a lash adjustment or possibly a valve guide) Motor passed compression test and everything. Was going to the grocery store one evening and it just died in a turn lane. So I fire it back up to get off the road, and its knockin like crazy. Get it towed home, and start runnin tests on it. Cant figure out where it is, still thinking its in the valves ( cause sound seemed to be coming from the top end) I fired the car up one winter morning so I could clean my driveway, and hear a loud bang as its idling. Pop the hood, and I have a rod hanging out of the #2 cylinder and only part of the rod where it had a wrist pin attached at one point. Moral of the story, dont be dumb. If its knocking fix it, and rebuild the motor. We are not there to hold your hand. Pull your valve cover and see if you have a broken valve spring, or if a valve isnt closing all the way, or something minor. If that isnt the case, ITS NOT IN THE HEAD. That is really easy to figure out. there are 2 covers to remove and look at everything (but the valve guides. And everything you would need to see other than cracks) If a valve is bent it will sit lower, cause its not seating right, if the valve lash is out you will know by checking with a feeler gauge. Dont adjust timing to compensate for a ticking, or knocking noise. You prolly either spun a bearing by running with no oil, or damaged a wrist pin by not properly lubricating the pistons. There are a million and one things that could have happened, but something is definatly wrong with a knocking or clanking sound as you say. Drain the oil and check for metal particles and see if something is truely slapping around.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
gaboonviper85;1142841 said:
take it easy jdub....not only are we confused but I think he confuses himself...not everyone is as flawless as you keep in mind..


You know, that jab is uncalled for. I make no pretense to be "flawless", but I do know how to answer a couple simple questions. Especially when I'm looking for help...how can you possibly expect an accurate answer when you refuse to provide accurate info?

This thread is a perfect example of: Crap in = Crap out
Made worse with random thoughts by other various individuals earlier.
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,224
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50
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
Folks.....

as was previsouly stated. This is the TECHNICAL section.

Any thing other than facts will be called.

gaboonviper. stay on topic or don't bother replying.


Supracool.

5 quarts of oil after the "flush". What chemical was used to "flush" the engine?

Once you finished the "flush" you put in synthetic? Are you aware that you still had residual "flush" agent inside of the motor oil passages when you did that? If you didn't, well now you know.

Also checked oil and had none? All it takes is ONE time for the rod knock to come in. And it will not start as heaven and high hell hammer to block sound. I have heard it were it sounds like valves out of adjustment but as the hours on the motors tallied up, the Rod knock got worse and worse until it finally did the hammer on block sound.

BHG? Nope. You got Rod knock. There is no question about it.
 

btc2112

ninja
Apr 4, 2008
41
0
0
san diego
figgie;1142972 said:
Also checked oil and had none? All it takes is ONE time for the rod knock to come in. And it will not start as heaven and high hell hammer to block sound. I have heard it were it sounds like valves out of adjustment but as the hours on the motors tallied up, the Rod knock got worse and worse until it finally did the hammer on block sound.

BHG? Nope. You got Rod knock. There is no question about it.


^exactly^
supracool like i told you before in the other thread, if you don't know or are unsure about what may be wrong do yourself a favor, BEFORE you start wrenching on shit, and have your car checked by qualified personnel. i understand the desire to want to diagnose and fix everything yourself but you have to be able to recognize when you are in over your head and admit that you need help.
just some advice because i am relatively new with to the supra like you, but you have to be careful about who your listening to. most of these guys do know what they're doing, have good intentions, and they mean well but they are giving you advice based on how they fixed THEIR problem. you have YOUR own problem that needs addressing and unless someone is actually there to listen to it, check it out, and properly diagnose it, its all speculation. now i don't know about you but im not going to be wrenching on shit, adjusting my cps, messing with my timing, etc, etc... based on someone else's speculation. i love my car too much to trash it like that.
just like jdub said, crap in = crap out. ultimately it's your call, do what you want. good luck
 

skee1234

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
18
0
0
Florida
i checked mine i did the timing light etc i pulled the valve cover off and what do ya know one of the camm caps where loose right at the area the noise was comming from waiting on a tq wrench and i think i got it