Supra Oil Cooler
- Thread starter 88supraturbowhite
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Using an oil-water cooler increases load on the cooling system. The stock cooling system in the Mk III has limited excess capacity...not a great idea IMO. A full flow oil cooler circuit will help pressure and help the motor get rid of heat more efficiently.
cccc;1153955 said:
and what education do you have that makes you think your tests are good? Do you major in fluid dynamics and thermal effecient? What kind of equipment do you test your used oils and what tools did you use when you broke your motor down to inspect wear?
What I'm trying to say is....I'm sitting her smokeing a cig, which doctors have proven time again is bad....but I've been smokeing for a long time, I have yet to feel bad....so my test says it's ok...
Moral of the story is....your system isn't good, and a smart man is telling you so...
Ok may i pose a probably seemingly dumb question as was posed to me by a friend and I had no answer for him. The idea was to take the line that comes off the oil pump to the block ( that some people have the AN and SS fittings for) and put a bulk head in the side of the oil pan that is fed by the oil pump. Off the bulk head, feed that via SS lines and AN fittings to an oil cooler, which goes back to another bulk head in the pan, that in turn goes into the blocks oil feed. Basically putting an oil cooler between the oil pump and the inlet for the block. Is there anything completely wrong with that? Keep in mind he is also shimming his oil pump as well. Is there anything fundamentally wrong with that in the 7m? All bulk heads will be sealed as well, before anyone makes comments about leaks in the oil pan. He came to me, so I figured I would see who thinks its dumb, cause I got nothing. He is doing a filter relocation aswell.
Raw: It's a shitload of messy plumbing for little to no good reason, it'll make refitting the Pan a PITA and as he's doing a relocation anyway why not just plumb the cooler in externally...
cccc: J Dub's point is the Mk3 due to it's limited frontal area doesn't have a lot of excess cooling capacity with the standard Radiator so adding another heat source/exchanger isn't helping matters.
If the system is in any way marginal ie: blocked core, bent fins, debris it could even be enough to tip it into overheat.
cccc: J Dub's point is the Mk3 due to it's limited frontal area doesn't have a lot of excess cooling capacity with the standard Radiator so adding another heat source/exchanger isn't helping matters.
If the system is in any way marginal ie: blocked core, bent fins, debris it could even be enough to tip it into overheat.
cccc - The temp gauge "in the middle" is higher than most...you are showing higher temps than I would be comfortable with. Most stock gauges sit in the 4-5 O'clock position on a motor with a coolant system in good shape.
I've seen the 1J and 2J oil coolers...the guys that use them have oil temps in the 220-250 deg F range after hard runs. Oil should stay as close as possible to 210 deg F...that is the temp oil is rated for it ops viscosity. Above that temp, oil viscosity drops rapidly and oil breakdown occurs. I tell the 1J/2J guys to dump the stock oil cooler.
An auto tranny does not produce anywhere near the heat that the motor does. I replaced my auto tranny cooler with an air/oil to reduce the thermal load on the coolant system.
I've seen the 1J and 2J oil coolers...the guys that use them have oil temps in the 220-250 deg F range after hard runs. Oil should stay as close as possible to 210 deg F...that is the temp oil is rated for it ops viscosity. Above that temp, oil viscosity drops rapidly and oil breakdown occurs. I tell the 1J/2J guys to dump the stock oil cooler.
An auto tranny does not produce anywhere near the heat that the motor does. I replaced my auto tranny cooler with an air/oil to reduce the thermal load on the coolant system.
IJ.;1154023 said:
I'm trying to understand here, but didnt you say earlier with a filter relocation, and a oil cooler that is a bad thing? Between pressure drops, and over cooling the oil? Or was that just a point out for when its returned to the oil pan only? And the idea he had was to use small approx 6" long lines to give a little flexability, then on the bulkheads to use something like a oil pan plug seal to seal the holes. Button up the pan before the bulkhead is tightened down all the way, then seal up the oil pan. the output would go to an oil filter (2nd one in the system) then to the oil cooler, then back into the block. Which yes it would be difficult to do the pan, but would that not help in the oiling system, or would there be issues with pressure drop at idle or anything else? What is the reccomended way to run the filter relocation with an aftermarket oil cooler without losing pressure or causing any damage to anything internal in the engine. What would the reccomended routing be, keep in mind he isnt going for an all out race setup, and cant afford the pressurized accumulator and things like that.
This is a good way to do it. Fairly clean and no more pressure loss from the stock filter head dumping oil to the pan. Pretty sure this is what IJ was referring to.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
Raw: No I don't believe I ever said anything of the sort, I've been running a relocation/remote and accumulator for the last 5 years with stock internal pipes in place and have never suffered a failue due to the Oil system.
(I've broken just about EVERYTHING else though)
(I've broken just about EVERYTHING else though)
jdub,
How would this work out??? with the return on the oil pan plugged off.
Your opinion please.
How would this work out??? with the return on the oil pan plugged off.
Your opinion please.
IJ.;1154288 said:
I couldnt agree more, Id love to see the stats on the people complaining about 7m's not lasting very long after a "supposed" full rebuild, and check to see if their oil system has been upgraded at all, to help cope with there thousands of dollars of bolt ons.
awesome, I have it all ready to go. I will add in the 180 thermostat then. thanks IJ
like this??
I know this has been gone over a lot. But which one do you recommend.
like this??
I know this has been gone over a lot. But which one do you recommend.
I'm using a cheap and nasty Permacool one but If I weren't so lazy I'd swap it out for either a Canton or a Morcal one as they're MUCH nicer.
I restored your post as it's perfectly OT
I restored your post as it's perfectly OT
Thanks for all the help IJ. :icon_bigg you respond fast!
I didn't mean to hijack this thread, Just wanted to make a simple diagram for everyone.
I didn't mean to hijack this thread, Just wanted to make a simple diagram for everyone.