stopped firing
- Thread starter Bri7man
- Start date
btw bri, code 51 should appear when you press on the gas pedal, if you read the TSRM it explains this...code 51 is also generated if the AC button is depressed.
Oh okay I seemed to have missed that about the code 51.. so technically it could be fine and the problem could be elsewhere.
I'll have to check the cps wires although it is in great condition I bought it off Marcos M.
Figgie I'm not sure but what I followed the test at the very top http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=15.
The 6p connector measuring from pin 3 to body ground with the key on.
Just for more info last night after literally hours of trying to tune her right just as I believe it was the closest I had gotten her to 10 deg timing with tps calibrated and I went to start next time and I heard the short out sound and this is where I am at then back to square one.
Could my coil pack ground be not sufficient and not allowing the extra volts to escape from it and causing the short? I realize this could be a very stupid question but I just really want my car back at this point..
This one worries me too.
Thanks man appreciate the info I'll def go round my engine and coat connectors with it.
I'll have to check the cps wires although it is in great condition I bought it off Marcos M.
Figgie I'm not sure but what I followed the test at the very top http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=15.
The 6p connector measuring from pin 3 to body ground with the key on.
Just for more info last night after literally hours of trying to tune her right just as I believe it was the closest I had gotten her to 10 deg timing with tps calibrated and I went to start next time and I heard the short out sound and this is where I am at then back to square one.
Could my coil pack ground be not sufficient and not allowing the extra volts to escape from it and causing the short? I realize this could be a very stupid question but I just really want my car back at this point..
This one worries me too.
Thanks man appreciate the info I'll def go round my engine and coat connectors with it.
CPS wires all checked out at 170 ohms. Haven't tried to start her this morning cause to be honest I feel it isn't safe for it. I would like to know what's shorting out and why really.
89supra7mgte;1455323 said:
I wish I knew where it was.... where would be a good place to fit and extra ground just to be safe?
when do you hear the pop noise? right before engine dies or when its running then dies after hearing it? make sure the engine movement is not rubbing/pulling wires. My car has a ground strap on the exhaust man to firewall. it is actuall unhooked and is not causing an issue.
If you get it so stay running for a min or two give it the wiggle test. tug on wires wherever you can and see if you get anything from that.
Your grounds should be suffiecient enough as to the car trying to run. get a wiring diagram and figure out all of your power wires on your sensors and make sure none are exposed.
If you get it so stay running for a min or two give it the wiggle test. tug on wires wherever you can and see if you get anything from that.
Your grounds should be suffiecient enough as to the car trying to run. get a wiring diagram and figure out all of your power wires on your sensors and make sure none are exposed.
The sound happens as its cranking and about to start then will just keep turning over. This happens once every 10 starts but when it does it means game over for a day. Seems willing to start again the next day.
I just got back from the hardware store I bought new ring fittings and thicker gage wire for the ex man to body ground and coil pack ground. Guess there was no need though.
Wiring diagrams confuse the crap out of me but the harness is in good condition and all the wires are insulated. So it should be fine right?
I'll try the tug test.
I just got back from the hardware store I bought new ring fittings and thicker gage wire for the ex man to body ground and coil pack ground. Guess there was no need though.
Wiring diagrams confuse the crap out of me but the harness is in good condition and all the wires are insulated. So it should be fine right?
I'll try the tug test.
I just tried to start it for the first time today and on the 3rd crank there was a LOUD short sound that i actually felt which was identical to when your exhaust bottoms out on a speed bump going 15 mph... Like the whole alternator shorted out. I saw faint smoke rising from under the TB frontside.
After inspecting I noticed the wire on the alternator that runs to the small cylinder tube up top the alternator to under the cover was very loose and could of easily lost connection on startups as the engine shakes.
I tightened it up and it now won't start but it really felt like it was about to if it didn't short this last try.
After inspecting I noticed the wire on the alternator that runs to the small cylinder tube up top the alternator to under the cover was very loose and could of easily lost connection on startups as the engine shakes.
I tightened it up and it now won't start but it really felt like it was about to if it didn't short this last try.
I am having similar troubles at this time, with almost impossible starts, and very erratic idle. The links in here will help me over the next few days as weather and life give me the chance.
Did you ever find more than 2 ground wires under the intake?
I believe your negative battery cable should mount to your block, not the intake manifold.
Somewhere on SM a good while back there was a thread showing how to add extra grounds to your igniter. It's pretty old,but I think it was done by jetjock or Jdub, so it is good information. I'll post a link if I find it before it gets posted here. I have to go out again , so I don't know if I have time to find it tonight.
Did you ever find more than 2 ground wires under the intake?
I believe your negative battery cable should mount to your block, not the intake manifold.
Somewhere on SM a good while back there was a thread showing how to add extra grounds to your igniter. It's pretty old,but I think it was done by jetjock or Jdub, so it is good information. I'll post a link if I find it before it gets posted here. I have to go out again , so I don't know if I have time to find it tonight.
Yeah i switched those grounds up and added new and thicker gage grounds earlier today under the tranny, ex man to body, and coilpack.
I'll probably do that igniter ground mod once I get this sorted out please post it up and your progress.
I'll probably do that igniter ground mod once I get this sorted out please post it up and your progress.
Not getting any voltage from igniter 6p connector pin 3 to body ground with key on.
This would be why it's not starting right now right? Coil packs/plugs and cps checkout.
So frustrating..
This would be why it's not starting right now right? Coil packs/plugs and cps checkout.
So frustrating..
you have to check the tsrm and see what it says about the igniter. as far as your noise, dude i have i never heard, an electrical short noise that sounds like a car bottoming out? ever. do you have the correct firing order on the coils? 163425? i had mine 153624 and it wouldnt start all the time and sometimes make a weird backfire pop through the intake.
yeah dude it was bad I jumped I have never heard anything like that before either. I thought okay I for SURE fucked something this time.... buuuut I really dont....know.
Tsrm says to replace igniter if it isn't showing 12v but I looks perfect I dont want to and if it is bad why would it start for like 10 times in a row then once the short sound decide its game over for a while....
Yah and when I was trying to tune it last last it was backfiring out the exhaust when I revved it above 2k sometimes to keep it alive.
Believe order is right I'll check anyway since I must have taken them off a dozen times in the past 24 hrs
Edit, yah they're good
I need to get this running soon or I'll be driving around a 99 buick park avenue to school::hang::
Tsrm says to replace igniter if it isn't showing 12v but I looks perfect I dont want to and if it is bad why would it start for like 10 times in a row then once the short sound decide its game over for a while....
Yah and when I was trying to tune it last last it was backfiring out the exhaust when I revved it above 2k sometimes to keep it alive.
Believe order is right I'll check anyway since I must have taken them off a dozen times in the past 24 hrs
Edit, yah they're good
I need to get this running soon or I'll be driving around a 99 buick park avenue to school::hang::
recommend driving the buick for now anyways until you get it straight. better to fix it right the first time then a hundred times ass backwards. you may have an intermittent short in the ignitor. have someone crank it and try tapping it? or if you get it to start have the meter handy to check for voltage. if it comes back here and there you have an intermittent problem. if you tap it and it works the ignitor is to blame. check the ecu terminals as well. may be shorting out inside there? but i have never heard of any real ecu issues on these cars?
So I just had mi madre start it about a dozen times while I was twisting pulling tapping tugging and shaking th igniter, its wires and connectors but nothing.
Anyways I have it here in front of me gonna try and figure out where the connection is bad.
Anyways I have it here in front of me gonna try and figure out where the connection is bad.
Alright so I'm aware DM repairs igniters but this waon't be till monday or tuesday i can get it there.
Does anyone personally know how to repair them for not putting out the 12v.
if so I'd like to give it a go.
The wires on the inside/outside are amazing condition but something it's wrong somewhere.
Does anyone personally know how to repair them for not putting out the 12v.
if so I'd like to give it a go.
The wires on the inside/outside are amazing condition but something it's wrong somewhere.