Bri7man;1454935 said:
Isn't there supposed to be 3 wires that ground there??
Yes switch them. But there's supposed to be 3 wires.
I had a question in post 12.......which will save a lot of troubleshooting.
Edit: Nevermind i see you got it right...
stopped firing
- Thread starter Bri7man
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Isn't there supposed to be 3 wires that ground there??
Yes switch them. But there's supposed to be 3 wires.
I had a question in post 12.......which will save a lot of troubleshooting.
Edit: Nevermind i see you got it right...
How did you verify no spark exactly, spark tester? Just asking.
the 3 or 4 brown and whit ground wires should be located on the intake manifold where your battery ground is and the battery ground should be moved forward where the bracket meets the manifold from block. (atleast that how i have seen them.
the 3 or 4 brown and whit ground wires should be located on the intake manifold where your battery ground is and the battery ground should be moved forward where the bracket meets the manifold from block. (atleast that how i have seen them.
Zumtizzle;1454938 said:
Could be I dunno. There's the 2 grounds from the harness that shoot down which is the ones you see grounded to the mount.
Other than that there's the batt ground and there is... hmmmm is this right in regards to the starter???
89supra7mgte;1454940 said:
Yeah going to switch those. Well how I see it is the car turns and I can smell the gas, the coil packs check out fine and my cps is installed correctly and it's also in great shape I just bought from Marcos M. So the only reason it wouldn't fire is if there is no spark.
Is the god damn check engine light on with the key on?
God damnit! Can you use something to actually check for spark?
God damnit! Can you use something to actually check for spark?
Zumtizzle;1454954 said:
I said code 51 I have the terminals jumped.
I'll check let me install my igniter and switch those wires and I'll get back to ya.
What's the safest way to check for spark. Last time I did an actual spark test I got a fireball in my face....
I am so confused, it sounds like it still runs for a little bit then dies? If it is running it is sparking? I would think having the TPS out of spec (not showing the ECU the correct IDL signal at idle) would cause poor idle which it sounds like you have.
BTW how could you time the car if it doesn't run? Timing has to be done at Operating temperature with the idle at the correct speed, with the Diagnostic terminals jumped. From your post's it sounds like this is not possible...
BTW how could you time the car if it doesn't run? Timing has to be done at Operating temperature with the idle at the correct speed, with the Diagnostic terminals jumped. From your post's it sounds like this is not possible...
You guy's are the SHIT!!
Put igniter back in cleaned contact surfaces of all wires switched em up and she started up!!
No cel with key in no codes while running idling at 400-500 dropping then brought herself up to 600 like she was catching herself but tps is not calibrated and timing is bit off.
Hopefully this was the fix and not just one of those lucky moments but we'll see.
Put igniter back in cleaned contact surfaces of all wires switched em up and she started up!!
No cel with key in no codes while running idling at 400-500 dropping then brought herself up to 600 like she was catching herself but tps is not calibrated and timing is bit off.
Hopefully this was the fix and not just one of those lucky moments but we'll see.
supradjza80;1454971 said:
Correct i think you're spot on. I was able to time it yesterday on a lucky start and got her up to temp. Although it wasn't the best because the cps wasn't aligned very well.
I'll definitely have to pickup a spark tester if it beasts singed eyebrows.
I'm gonna go out and she if she starts up again and if so set timing and calibrate tps. or vice versa.
supradjza80;1454979 said:
Yeah I'm looking at the tsrm right now.
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=103
Only thing I don't understand is what it means when it says deflects, like turn until the ohm meter deflects.
Edit,
Weird not reading anything from IDL-E2 with .70mm between stop screw.
The multi-meter is working though it read 700ohms from VTA-E2...
This is kind of why I don't like electronic issues it's just too finicky.
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89supra7mgte;1454992 said:
Yeah I'd say the same. Although this does not explain why my multimeter would not pick up any volts from the igniter...... Maybe my multimeter is not functioning correctly... That would explain a lot.
Does the igniter ground through the case? bad meter is always a poss. Maybe some shit in the connector and when you disassembled everything it got cleaned up? recommendation on connectors, di-electric grease, does you a big favor in the end.
89supra7mgte;1454997 said:
I dunno I was just following tsrm it said to put the ignition on and measure pickup 3 to body ground and i got no reading.
On the di electric grease i just bought some... do you just coat the rubber on the connectors with it?
So I'm wondering if anyone has the same problem I'm dealing with right now. This was happening even before I pulled my engine.
Adjusting tps according to ohms positioned all the way down the reading is around .24 as you turn clockwise all the way to .70 until then it jumps to 1 and stays there the rest of its travel clockwise.
I assume this is what tsrm reffers to as "deflecting".
Anyways the problem is code 51 comes on once I press the gas pedal even after calibration and in any position whatsoever.
There will be no codes until I press on the gas then 51 will flash once then go back to no codes constant flashing until the throttle opens any amount again.
Is this normal? Does this mean I need a new tps?
Anyone experience this before?
Adjusting tps according to ohms positioned all the way down the reading is around .24 as you turn clockwise all the way to .70 until then it jumps to 1 and stays there the rest of its travel clockwise.
I assume this is what tsrm reffers to as "deflecting".
Anyways the problem is code 51 comes on once I press the gas pedal even after calibration and in any position whatsoever.
There will be no codes until I press on the gas then 51 will flash once then go back to no codes constant flashing until the throttle opens any amount again.
Is this normal? Does this mean I need a new tps?
Anyone experience this before?
I've spent the past couple of hours trying to tune her adjusting the tps and moving the cps one notch over left/right from pickup I see no pattern or any sign of it wanting to run consistently. Most of the time it wants to bog down then when given throttle adjusts itself till you kill it but there is no pattern correlated to tps position which is freaking killing me.
Now at square one won't start cps up or down at any given tdc mark.
Never had this much trouble before... feel its out of my hands at this point.
Think I might have it towed to DM maybe Aaron can teach me what's going on hands on.
Now at square one won't start cps up or down at any given tdc mark.
Never had this much trouble before... feel its out of my hands at this point.
Think I might have it towed to DM maybe Aaron can teach me what's going on hands on.
Bri7man;1454995 said:
going to the coil packs or going to the ignitor?
usually use an oscope to trace the signal.
Anyway
triple check the wires at the CPS, g1 or g2 might be grounding out.
TPS, might need to remove and replace if it fails the tsrm adjustment. Sorry no choice there.