Stinger thread....

[10secdream]

The first map uses the stock 1JZ ignition table and then for the fuel just modify the fuel map to compensate for the larger injectors. Since that map is for 440cc injectors 440/682 = 0.65

Since the fuel in the map is 100% you have to bring it down to 65%.

 

[gravesdu_99]

It's about the same as the other case...-35% trim should be close enough to get it up and running. If you have a good tune already, I would run the trim up and down a bit -- a little above and a little below -- until it runs about the same as it did.

Different types of injectors aren't going to function exactly the same, so you're most likely going to need to do a little tuning...but you should be close.

You wouldn't want to cut the fuel in half when the injectors aren't twice as large.

The first map uses the stock 1JZ ignition table and then for the fuel just modify the fuel map to compensate for the larger injectors. Since that map is for 440cc injectors 440/682 = 0.65

Since the fuel in the map is 100% you have to bring it down to 65%.

Just something else for thought, maybe a starting point and then work your way down farther.

 

[quake]

don't bother trying to share maps each car is diffrent, even with the same parts. Best thing to do is start your own map for your own car if you do get a map lower timing #'s under boost and bring them up slowly on the dyno. Also don't just leave the dyno and think you are all set. I have 2 maps one for dyno and one for street your af's will change even with the same map..

 

[quake]

Use the stinger as follows first make sure you have another means of transportation as u might be down for a few days.


1. the car is in good running condition

2. go into the trims section and raise untill car wants to start

3. hold the space bar down when cranking and adjust the highlighted cells untill the car starts. (also the cells around it)

4. now the car is running, allow it to warm up and set your idle with the throttle body adjustment (it will chang as car warms up adjust accordingly)

5. under vac most of your cells will be lower than that used to start the car.

6. throttle up in small increments and adjust fuel in that range -make up the rest of the #'s as you go up- now drive the car and see what it wants more or less fuel. Too much fuel will will bog down and too little will sputter

MAKE ALL CHANGES IN SMALL INCREMENTS AND DONT EVEN THINK OF BOOST UNTILL THE CAR RUNS PERFECT UNDER VAC.

 

[gravesdu_99]

What exactly does the space bar do. Also how big of a difference should there be inbetween cells a 0001 increase at the most or is there a good rule of thumb.

For those that are street tuning a 1jz running stinger. I was wondering what values you are setting to zero. Aka (accelerator enrichment, enrichment duration), (engine water temp. compensation, air temp. compensation) under the fuel temp. compensation column on the stinger . Or should the accelerator and enrichment values be left alone while street tuning.

 

[quake]

What exactly does the space bar do. Also how big of a difference should there be inbetween cells a 0001 increase at the most or is there a good rule of thumb.

For those that are street tuning a 1jz running stinger. I was wondering what values you are setting to zero. Aka (accelerator enrichment, enrichment duration), (engine water temp. compensation, air temp. compensation) under the fuel temp. compensation column on the stinger . Or should the accelerator and enrichment values be left alone while street tuning.

a few questions are good but you need to go under the help section and print the full section and read all functions till you understand. You don't want to go in blind and learn what a function does on your car and risk hurting it.

 

[gravesdu_99]

quake, thanks for the info. I didn't even know that information was there. Thats helped clear up a lot. Right now I'm in the middle of fixing an oil drain plug leak and then hopefully back to trying to tune. And thanks for the pm.

 

[GotTurbos?]

Are any of you guys having issues with the software? Mine is always freezing and a step behind where I usually want it to be. Simple things with it don't work... like the ability to open files smoothly and maximize the screen. Its getting pretty annoying. Does anybody have another copy of the software they want to send me?

Jon

edit: got another link to the software, we'll have to see if this one is smoother. So far so good.

 

[quake]

Are any of you guys having issues with the software? Mine is always freezing and a step behind where I usually want it to be. Simple things with it don't work... like the ability to open files smoothly and maximize the screen. Its getting pretty annoying. Does anybody have another copy of the software they want to send me?

Jon

edit: got another link to the software, we'll have to see if this one is smoother. So far so good.

sometimes you will enter a value and the rpm & boost gauge will freeze. Just hit the enter twice and it will move along. Also if you click on say file open and it won't then hold control and hit the correct letter.

 

[suprahero]

Sometimes my car will run rich if it's cooler outside or overcast. Would I change the airtemp fuel trim (I can't remember exactly what it's called) to a negative number since it's on 0? Does that question make sense? My car usually runs around 14.5- 15.2, but it does sometimes run rich when it's cooler, what would be the best way to fix this?

 

[suprahero]

Has anyone used the Stinger to control boost and if so, would you mind explaining to me how to set it up? I've read it but I can't find out how to do it. Thanks.

 

[turbo87targa]

is there a base map anywhere around here for 550's on a 7m?


or for that matter is there a harness for the pre 89 mk3s? (87 to be specific)

 

[turbo87targa]

does anyone know? or is the EMS the way to go for pre 89?

 

[bigaaron]

is there a base map anywhere around here for 550's on a 7m?


or for that matter is there a harness for the pre 89 mk3s? (87 to be specific)

Yes, I have a 550cc 7m basemap, and yes, I can make a pre-89 pnp harness if you send me your old stock ecu to pull the ecu male connector out of.

 

[turbo87targa]

Yes, I have a 550cc 7m basemap, and yes, I can make a pre-89 pnp harness if you send me your old stock ecu to pull the ecu male connector out of.

ahhh, thank you. and with stinger being a full stand alone it will alow me to get rid of my maf and a few other original sensors right?

 

[bigaaron]

ahhh, thank you. and with stinger being a full stand alone it will alow me to get rid of my maf and a few other original sensors right?

Yes, it basically only needs the ecu coolant temp sensor, cps, and tps. It has a map sensor built in.

 

[turbo87targa]

sweet. so thats the standalone im goin with when i do my upgrade in a few weeks here. so ill get back to you on this aaron. thanks again.

 

[Pharnhyte]

Guys I really need help, my car has the hardest time starting in cold weather, I have to crank it so long now, and I am getting frustrated, can someone at least please show me a screen shot for the injector cold start stuff, cold start percentages, anything, or even if someone has a 1jz map. If you have a map, I will paypal you money lol, I am about to trade my Stinger for a Mines ECU or something, so please anything/info to help with cold starts.

Steve

 

[quake]

Thought i covered this but you need lots of fuel during cranking. when the car is cold as in been sitting for 4hrs or more, plug in the laptop and press "read from ecu" when the car is ready press and hold the space bar, then start cranking. All the cells your car uses for cranking should be highlighted. Now go in and add more fuel to these cells. Much much more start with +5. Then crank again if the car starts then drive it.

After driving let it cool again full cold and repeat. You should now see a higher than most of your map peak for cranking fuel on the 3d display add as needed. When done the car should start by the second try or right on the first try. After starting most cars will want more fuel when the motor is cold. You know this cause the car will sputter when driving in vac on a cold motor. If so then go under fuel temp compensation and add more fuel for the colder water temps progressively adding less at the water temp rises and ending up at 0 by the time the car warms up.

 

[quake]

by the way water temp comp will only work right if you spent the time to calibrate the stinger properly for your temp sensor