STALX Supra - The Ultimate Time Attack MKIII

[prsrcokr]

Looks like a fun car, can't wait to see some more vids of it. I can only imagine what a mk3 with that power and weight drives like.

Wow, Gingerman must have a lot of tight corners. I needed more gear since I'm still running the original 7m and try not to redline it, instead shifting at 6k which makes passing difficult at times.
Yeah, RA looks like it's a big track similar to VIR with fast uphill esses and some very fast corners. Looking forward to following your build.
Brian

 

[Supra_Villan]

In.

 

[mobes]

Looks like a fun car already, looking forward to what you have in store for it.

That rear suspension pic - perhaps it's just the angle but it looks like the endlink for the swaybar ought to be flipped around so that it's on the outboard side of the swaybar and the inboard side of the tab on the link. The way it is, it looks like it's putting undue stress on the tab.

 

[Supra469]

Subscribing, and I'm digging those brakes. Got more pics to share!

 

[LordDigital]

Got some progress this weekend.

Removed the TKO subFrame and installed the subFrame from the LDZ supra. Using JZA70 / Cusco diff build by Antonov Transmissions :thumbup:.

This begin the 3th time I'm swapping subFrames ,took me less than 30 minutes to take the old subFrame out! Installation was a lot longer ,I can't believe that I used high power impact gun to remove the diff - what a mistake ,caused me nearly 2 hours of repair work to get the damage properly fixed...

Subframe Out:

After attempting removal of the 2 front 14mm bolts that hold the diff ,I had to cut my subframe to get the bolt out. I knew quite well from past experience that using high power impacts caused that...



Cut Cut:

Lol ,what a welder!

Bolt in for thermal stability ,and weld weld the nut:

More welding ,an more wasted time...

Now with the "new line" of rods begin blue ,I got quite a few colours on this subframe

Next week will be engine install time ,I hope to get my MTR manifold by Friday (keeping fingers crossed !!!):thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

[LordDigital]

Got quite a few tasks done in the last 3 weeks.

Installed Engine:

Bored ATI damper and installed it:

Found some rust at the welding points of the cage ,and the racing seat rails. Spend a lot of time sandblasting ,priming , sealing and finally painting with stone guard. Only the best stuff were used (Wurth Self Eching Primer ,3M 08361 and Wurth water based Stone Guard)

The ultimate SandBlaster ,blasting the “Usual” MA70 rear fender rust spots:

The ultimate Triple Axis heater gun Stand

Ready for the StoneGuard:

StondeGuard(ed)

This is the area of the old undercarriage damage:

Also worked on the exhausts ,new 3inch catback pipes with MagnaFlow exhausts (It is not too apperant but the test pipe is chromed!?!? ,got it for free from the Sound Performance turbo kit

Custom mounts to ensure 1.5G proof muffler

And finally ,after 5 years of step-by-step cutting of the transmission mount ,this time went all the way – including complete wings removal and re-welding in hope of moving the lowest point of the car elsewhere…:

Lol – JIC Magic (A gift from Dr. Jonez )

 

[destrux]

That master cylinder is from a 97' Toyota T100 w/o ABS, if the pictures and info on RockAuto are correct.

 

[honestabe]

Can anybody confirm this? If so I know what my next upgrade is.

 

[LordDigital]

Between getting married and baby on the way did not have too much time to go to my shop ,decided to move the car to my house garage and try to work at least 1 hour a day.


Lol this car is low

Exhaust is Very low (tow truck tension adds a little bit)

Hit the track on a JZ block with A/C bracket delete and your block mount would crack ,this is the only solution to the problem - if that has not happens to you ,you did not push the car hard enough (I cracked the block after 1 hour session and started loosing the belt on the next track day).

Hint: The Braked used is modified by a ex Group B mechanic MA70 sub-frame reinforcement

Onre more shot ,mounting points are the intake mani stud ,and the PS pump inlet flange bolt.

The good injectors (New DENSO USDM Injectors from AutoZone ,50% of Dealer price):

The 550 injectors IMO require Race Gas and Aristo URL to keep the ECU in good timing maps. Aristo ECUs require ... dual resistor box setup:

This is the Jim King Hardware to mount the MKIV rear BBK. The benefit of this conversion is the fact that the kit retains factory hand brake. I did know until now that the MKIV wheels had slightly larger centerbore ?!?

ExCentric inserts for the MK4 calipers ,unfortunately not eccentric enough - major disadvantage - as a result the brake pads need to be maintained every now and then because 15% of the contact area is outside the rotor. WTH were you thinking Mr. KING ?!?

A Maze of SS Braided ,Earls thermo plate ,oil feed ,ps lines...

 

[honestabe]

Why not just remove the A/C pump and the bolt that it goes on that sticks out of the block? That's what I did and have had no issues.

 

[LordDigital]

I got the engine started today and that is all with the good news - the bad news are -> huge vacuum leak ,appears to me coming from/around runner 6 towards the head. I guess this is what happens when we purchase a good JDM head that has no parts available in the US (intake manifold gaskets) how stupid was I to get 5 gasket sets from Jeff back in the days and to ship 3 of them overseas. Tomorrow I will get the intake manifold out and would apply some copper gasket maker ,what a PITA job to do...

 

[LordDigital]

Fixed the vaccum leak - taking intake manifold when engine in the car ... what a pain.

Got the car washed today for the first time in 2 years:

Now of course ... new problem. Engine and Turbo combo were working great for more than 2 years. Turbo is GT35R (dual ball bearing). Ever since i boosted for the first time after transferring the perfectly working engine and turbo in the track chassis - car is smoking a lot - blue smoke. Symptoms are:

- almost always generates blue smoke at engine start-up ,after it was sitting for at least 1 minute.
- almost never generates blue smoke on cold start
- smokes at WOT and high boost ,so far the smoke does not appear to be cumming from the wastaGate discharge pipe - only from the tail pipe.

Done the following:
- Removed spark plugs ,they all look great.
- Removed turbo oil return pipe ,added extra oil and let the car run with the return pipe drained into plastic tube. Does not appear to make any difference ,still smokes.
- Turbo is clocked at around 10 degrees ,compensated for that by jacking the left side of the car - still smokes.
- Drove the car for 15-20 miles ,with a lot of WOT and brake boost. Smokes like crazy after boosting ,but as the time passes and the car idles smokes goes away. After next engine restart ,smoke comes back...
- Removed muffler ,replaced with known good one (oil free) - no improvement.

I'm pretty sure that the issue is with the turbocharger ,possibly a blown hot side ( exhaust) turbo seal on GT35R ,. Contacted ATP and they are claiming that dual ball bearing turbos can't be operational when the seal is blown. Once the seal is gone (they are claiming) the turbo would have "excessive shaft-play" resulting in turbine wheel rubbing against the housing. That all sound weird to me...

At this point I have no further trouble shooting steps left (other than converting to N/A :yikes: ) - any input will be greatly appreciated.




-

 

[dslocal]

Only thing that really makes sense is the turbo leaking oil, especially since you said the plugs were clean if it was burning that much oil there would be something on them. Have you pulled off the down pipe and looked at the hotside of the turbo? That would be the next step and then you could tell for sure.

 

[winsauce]

updates? love the cage, makes me need to change pants everytime i see a caged mk3 without fail...


if the turbo is on its way out like this -> ::flame:: I vote for the billet 62 or the billet 67, would be awesome to combo with a quick spool valve if its not against track regulation...

 

[LordDigital]

So far it appears that the smoking was due to the fact that the t urbo sitting with the exhaust wheel down for over 1 year. It appears that most of the oil burned off on the street or at my shop ,now it only smokes on start up IFF the car has warmed up. No smoke whatsoever on cold start ups.

I participated in BMW SCCA autoX last weekend ,on 20psi with GT35R the traction was a major issue with 255 Direzza Star Spec ,car would need 295 Direzzas (or RS3) , or even better 275 slicks to have traction.

 

[TweeT91109]

So far it appears that the smoking was due to the fact that the t urbo sitting with the exhaust wheel down for over 1 year. It appears that most of the oil burned off on the street or at my shop ,now it only smokes on start up IFF the car has warmed up. No smoke whatsoever on cold start ups.

I participated in BMW SCCA autoX last weekend ,on 20psi with GT35R the traction was a major issue with 255 Direzza Star Spec ,car would need 295 Direzzas (or RS3) , or even better 275 slicks to have traction.

Lol only a 275 slick......im game.

 

[josbeat]

good work MAN!
I know how hard is to build a track Supra jejeje

 

[LordDigital]

Lol this weekend race was rare - 2 MK3(s) on AutoX event! :icon_surp:icon_surp

Here is onBoard of one of my best runs for the day:

[video=youtube;Ie22NsDgE-8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ie22NsDgE-8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ie22NsDgE-8[/video]

And here is my first run ,a little less grip:

[video=youtube;9zX14ZSOY7E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zX14ZSOY7E"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zX14ZSOY7E[/video]

 

[kakanator]

holy shit dude that looks fun.

 

[Driftmk3]

I was just as surprised as you were lol. Hopefully my car will be a little more prepared for the next event I go to. Will you be going to anymore of these?