spark plug for 1jz
- Thread starter 89toy
- Start date
The last few times we tried the 6097 in a few different 1jz engines, we had some problems with a miss at idle and under boost. We tried gapping them a few different sizes too. For some reason a basic platinum plug like the Bosch seems to work better. :dunno: My 7m loves those 6097's, I'm not sure if we just got a bad batch or something. The first car we had a problem with was Matt's, and I'm sure he can tell you how it ran poorly until the plugs were changed.
We always use 6097s for 1Js, never had a problem. Stock TT or big single.
You can order 6097s pre-gapped from us as well, if you are that lazy
You can order 6097s pre-gapped from us as well, if you are that lazy
haha thanks89toy said:
I've used 6097s with good success as well.. Gapped at .24 with the coils in wastefire no ignition amp at 18 psi with my 67.. no problems..
coppers are the best for turbo cars imo.. you have to change them more often, but they are dirt cheap (less then 2$ each.. sometimes less then $1.50 ea.)
BCPR6ES if on stock twins
7ES if on a single
Used both on 7m, 1jz and now 2jz along with my volvo... NEVER once failed me. Made anywhere form 220 HP to 523 HP.
Gap was .28 on the 523 run.
On anything lower then 350 whp i gap to .32
7ES if on a single
Used both on 7m, 1jz and now 2jz along with my volvo... NEVER once failed me. Made anywhere form 220 HP to 523 HP.
Gap was .28 on the 523 run.
On anything lower then 350 whp i gap to .32
what i don't understand is why are the NGK Platinums OE for the Supra if Copper plugs are so much better?
Can anybody find any documentation as to the differences and the reason why one plug type is better over another? I have not found anything yet and would really like to understand better. For future choices on spark plugs
I only say this because it seems to be like oil choices some people swear on thiner oils and other say they love there think stuff and both have said no problems ever.
What i don't understand is companies like HKS and others for there racing plugs they use Iridiums???? and is it if you go higher in number the colder the iridium plug is?
Can anybody find any documentation as to the differences and the reason why one plug type is better over another? I have not found anything yet and would really like to understand better. For future choices on spark plugs
I only say this because it seems to be like oil choices some people swear on thiner oils and other say they love there think stuff and both have said no problems ever.
What i don't understand is companies like HKS and others for there racing plugs they use Iridiums???? and is it if you go higher in number the colder the iridium plug is?
cost vs performance... iridiums work good im sure but for 60$.. I'd rather buy 30 copper plugs and change them every 5-6k miles..
In my searches i have found some info. Just nothing that explains what is truly better about one spark plug over another.
I did find this info on a MFR site that i found at least somewhat useful
Found out that your spark plugs need to be at at least 450 degrees C up to 850 C to operate corectly and self clean like they are supposed to.
Gapping
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionise (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximises burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think
Heat Range
With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression) more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression. In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas will virtually guarantee engine damage.
An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a "Band-Aid" approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select a hotter spark plug.
Using "racing" spark plugs
Be cautious! In reality, most "racing" spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the spark plug. They don't provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip! Their internal construction is no different than most standard spark plugs.
While certain spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we're happy to counsel you in the right direction) we try to tell people that are looking to "screw in" some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are not the answer.
To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air/fuel mixture, to survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs, and to achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance.
Some of these "specialised racing plugs" are made with precious metal alloy centre/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators. Again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these tortuous conditions. Most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically "unlock" hidden horsepower.
Installing spark plugs
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.
An over-torqed spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.
The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when its hot and installation may prove difficult. Proper torque specs for both aluminium and cast iron cylinder heads are listed below.
Torque Settings Specifications Table
Spark plug type (Thread Diameter)
Cast Iron Cylinder Head
Flat seat type (with gasket)
18 mm ø (25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
14 mm ø (18.0 ~ 25.3 lb-ft)
12 mm ø (10.8 ~ 18.0 lb-ft)
10 mm ø (7.2 ~ 10.8 lb-ft)
Aluminium Cylinder Head
18 mm ø (25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
14 mm ø (18.0 ~ 21.6 lb-ft)
12 mm ø (10.8 ~ 14.5 lb-ft)
10 mm ø (7.2 ~ 8.7 lb-ft)
Using high power ignition systems
Many of the more popular aftermarket ignition systems are of the capacitive discharge type. They store voltage, or accumulate it, until a point at which a trigger signal allows release of this more powerful spark. Companies like Mallory, MSD, Crane and Accel, to name a few, offer such systems.
They affect spark plugs in that they allow the gaps to be opened up to take advantage of the increased capacity. The theory is that the larger and the more intense the spark you are able to present to the air/fuel mixture, the more likely you will be to burn more fuel, and hence the more power you will make.
We encourage the use of such systems, but only on modified or older non-computer controlled vehicles.
In reality, computer controlled vehicles do such a good job of lighting off the air/fuel mixture (as evidenced by the ultra-low emissions), added ignition capacity would do little to burn more fuel since the stock configuration is doing such a good job. Older non-computer controlled vehicles or those that have been modified with higher compression or boosted (nitrous, turbo, supercharged) engines can certainly take advantage of a more powerful ignition system.
Some Marketing Garb i found.
Wich all point to the platinum be the better choice or a colder iridium plug posibly
I did find this info on a MFR site that i found at least somewhat useful
Found out that your spark plugs need to be at at least 450 degrees C up to 850 C to operate corectly and self clean like they are supposed to.
Gapping
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionise (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximises burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think
Heat Range
With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression) more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression. In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas will virtually guarantee engine damage.
An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a "Band-Aid" approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select a hotter spark plug.
Using "racing" spark plugs
Be cautious! In reality, most "racing" spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the spark plug. They don't provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip! Their internal construction is no different than most standard spark plugs.
While certain spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we're happy to counsel you in the right direction) we try to tell people that are looking to "screw in" some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are not the answer.
To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air/fuel mixture, to survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs, and to achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance.
Some of these "specialised racing plugs" are made with precious metal alloy centre/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators. Again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these tortuous conditions. Most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically "unlock" hidden horsepower.
Installing spark plugs
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.
An over-torqed spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.
The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when its hot and installation may prove difficult. Proper torque specs for both aluminium and cast iron cylinder heads are listed below.
Torque Settings Specifications Table
Spark plug type (Thread Diameter)
Cast Iron Cylinder Head
Flat seat type (with gasket)
18 mm ø (25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
14 mm ø (18.0 ~ 25.3 lb-ft)
12 mm ø (10.8 ~ 18.0 lb-ft)
10 mm ø (7.2 ~ 10.8 lb-ft)
Aluminium Cylinder Head
18 mm ø (25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
14 mm ø (18.0 ~ 21.6 lb-ft)
12 mm ø (10.8 ~ 14.5 lb-ft)
10 mm ø (7.2 ~ 8.7 lb-ft)
Using high power ignition systems
Many of the more popular aftermarket ignition systems are of the capacitive discharge type. They store voltage, or accumulate it, until a point at which a trigger signal allows release of this more powerful spark. Companies like Mallory, MSD, Crane and Accel, to name a few, offer such systems.
They affect spark plugs in that they allow the gaps to be opened up to take advantage of the increased capacity. The theory is that the larger and the more intense the spark you are able to present to the air/fuel mixture, the more likely you will be to burn more fuel, and hence the more power you will make.
We encourage the use of such systems, but only on modified or older non-computer controlled vehicles.
In reality, computer controlled vehicles do such a good job of lighting off the air/fuel mixture (as evidenced by the ultra-low emissions), added ignition capacity would do little to burn more fuel since the stock configuration is doing such a good job. Older non-computer controlled vehicles or those that have been modified with higher compression or boosted (nitrous, turbo, supercharged) engines can certainly take advantage of a more powerful ignition system.
Some Marketing Garb i found.
Wich all point to the platinum be the better choice or a colder iridium plug posibly
Also found out that many racing Plugs use Precious metals such as Platinum, Palladium or Gold for the Electrode
Ok Ok calm dowm bobiseverywhere u have a very good point i agree, but then again were only talking about spark plugs so just use what u like and favor as long as it works. Im only using some denso for a 2j i pick up at autozone. Its works good so just take a breath guy.
I still have to head down to my local autoparts store and hopefully buy some before the weekend to change them out.
The car is spitting at high boost in combination of what I believe is a boost leak and possibly a bad plug.... but I figure it's time to change the plugs regardless so I'll buy them and check to make sure they're good... I'm just hoping I haven't damaged anything :S Unless you're romping on the gas, the car seems to drive normal but it smells rich and sputters at top end....
The car is spitting at high boost in combination of what I believe is a boost leak and possibly a bad plug.... but I figure it's time to change the plugs regardless so I'll buy them and check to make sure they're good... I'm just hoping I haven't damaged anything :S Unless you're romping on the gas, the car seems to drive normal but it smells rich and sputters at top end....
89toy said:
LOL
i only put that stuff in there cause it's what i found. More so trying to understand why people are using copper plugs. What the benifit is other then cost.
I am not trying to chastize anyone or anyhting, just trying to get info :biglaugh: