[SOLVED] Aristo 2JZ-GTE swap .. Won't run, but everything checks out good..

ifyouaint1sturlast

Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
Jun 14, 2011
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Radial;1757277 said:
So I learned something today! Camshaft position sensor is controlling Ignition... instead of a distributor. Has nothing to do with exessive overfueling. Take a look at the link below. If new CPS's fixes the problem, then its actually a ignition-problem after all... Jiiises :)

http://www.ehow.com/about_5903731_camshaft-position-sensor-failure-symptoms.html

May not be over fueling, may just be not igniting due to bad timing..

Symptom: Occasionally while cranking trying to start, the engine will STOP mid crank, and then turn half a revolution backwards. As if the fuel is igniting during the compression stroke, and forcing the piston back down.
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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Jun 14, 2011
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Checked today:
-MAP sensor with engine off 2.62v (at ECU: 2.62v)
-Swapped cam sensors with a friend. His 1JZ fired right up. Not the cam sensors.
-Got my engine back together, cleaned off my cam sensors really good, swapped my o2 sensor with a different one I had, and it fired up. It JUST won't idle! It sputters and misfires and just feels really rich.
-TPS is within spec.
-Runs with fuel at 45psi at the rail. Tad high for my taste as the TSRM calls for something like 32-40. Regulator is on the way.
-Put in old plugs I had that were still in good condition and the car started every time. Had to prop the throttle open though.
-Checked compression, 167-179 on all cyl. (167-166-175-179-178-179)
-Oil pressure: 20psi at idle (stock gauge)

Diagnosis: ?

The car will rev a bit. It sounds like crap at idle. Everything checks out fine. I can't figure it out.. ECU?

Tried to check the timing but I forgot what igniter wire I'm supposed to hook the timing light to?

Would a BHG cause these symptoms? The linked low compression on 1-2 has me concerned. Cylinders don't seem steam cleaned though when changing the spark plugs.
 
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ifyouaint1sturlast

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Jun 14, 2011
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Umm.. Blown head gasket?

Would this not explain the loss of compression in adjacent cyl? Would this not explain why occasionally while cranking the motor just STOPS? (combustion in one cyl leaking into another) Would this not explain the light white smoke I thought was gas?

I honestly shouldn't spend the money on a block test kit. Is there an efficient way of testing with a compression tester? I was going to test with all plugs out, and read cyl 1 compression. Then test with a plug on cyl 2 and read cyl 1 compression. It technically should go up if there is a leak.. right?
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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Jun 14, 2011
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HitmansEVO;1758294 said:
Dunno if this was brought up... Did you delete the charcoal canister and not swap to a vented gas cap?

Charcoal can is deleted, no I didn't swap to a vented gas cap. I shortened the stock ventilation line to a few inches length and mounted a filter to the end of it so no debris can get in. I hope that is sufficient? My previous motor ran perfectly with this fuel pump and fuel line setup.

An update though..

I just got back inside. I compression tested the motor with no plugs, except a plug in #3 (to add some resistance.. you'll see) and the comp tester in #1. It revealed 160psi. I removed the plug from #3 and put it in #2 to see if my 160psi would rise. If I got higher compression than the previous test I would suspect that I was losing air through #2 via the head gasket (pure speculation).

It changed nothing. The test was very consistent.

I did notice, however, upon rotation the crank.. my timing belt occasionally looks as though it's going to jump teeth! Then continue rotating and it goes back on track.. at higher speeds you can clearly see that the cam gear WOBBLES! I removed the cam gear and inspected. I measured in every which way I could think to, and it seems perfectly straight. I suspect the cam of wobbling. I also noticed when rotating the cam there's some spots that seem to "rub" in it's rotation. I highly suspect the intake cam gear of being bent/warped. I put a WTB up for an intake cam and I seem to have found a good one for around $30 shipped.

Worst comes to worst, I'm out $30.. because at the moment.. I'm out of ideas besides that.

Here's a link to a video where you can see the cam wobble:
http://s1091.photobucket.com/albums/i397/richard_jeffries/?action=view&current=2JZRunning.mp4

It wasn't the intention of the video so don't be upset if you have to rewind it eight times to see the cam problem! :)
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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S.A. supra;1758303 said:
Is everything still tdc.

I check it every time I try to start the engine, and today.. nope. Intake cam is one tooth advanced.

Just snagged a replacement Aristo intake cam off the other forums for $30 shipped. When it comes I'll re-set the belt and install everything else I have too. Plugs, regulator, etc.

When I took the belt off and noticed the rub on the intake cam, I also noticed the exhaust cam spins perfectly with a wrench. Perhaps however my friend held the cam to tighten the cam gear he fubar'd it somehow? I don't know. If it still wobbles after this then the head is warped/damaged. It's done nothing but idle when it ran so I hope I didn't damage anything too bad.

Anyone who reads this thread must think I just jump to conclusions all the time. But seriously, after testing everything and everything comes out GOOD.. what else can I do except make eccentric assumptions?
 

mk3_dude

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May 10, 2005
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You sound just like me right now bud. I have a 86 supra 1jz at my shop that I am working on for a buddie. But his car idles well (13afr)(30psi at the gauge) but once revved past 3k or so it spits and sputters and leans out horribly (in the 20's!), then the ecu shuts me down back to idle. I have done all the same tests as you. Have you checked continuity with your injectors? This supra I am working on came in to me FIRST running horribly rich and sounds exactly like your problem at FIRST, I rewired his entire wiring harness because there were a tons of breaks right before the plugs...that problem was solved. Now my problem is, it idles perfectly, but wont rev past 3k rpms spitting and sputtering and leaning out horribly unless I unplug the map.

It seems like you done all the right things, I would start shooting for a new ecu as thats what im thinking about doing as well. Because the map sensor, coolant temp sensor, tps, air intake temp sensor all share the same power, I checked and they all have power/ground/Signal...And signal going to ecu as well with continuity!

Recalibrated the tps with a new one, same thing.

But as soon as I unplug my map, the car runs rich in the 10s. I can free rev it to redline and sounds 20x better, but can't drive it worth a damn because as soon as it reads boost it cuts down.

I have replaced the coils, cam sensors, tps, fuel pump, injectors (4x), ignitor, and does the same thing. Timing is TDC and perfect.

Mods are:
-1jz aristo
-440cc injectors
-Single turbo 70mm
- Aeromotive regulator
-Walboro pump (12V)
-etc

I'll keep you updated on my buddies car and hopefully we may have the same issue.


-Lee @ Endless Performance
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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Jun 14, 2011
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Problem solved.
The symptoms always indicated that the timing was off, however it never was. I noticed a 'slight' wobble on the cam gear when the car was cranking.

I cranked it slowly with a ratchet, and noticed something very odd.. All timing marks were at 0deg, and I cranked it a revolution by hand and noticed at some point during the revolution the belt started riding ON the gear, not in the teeth, because the gear was on a wobble. When I returned to 0deg, the intake cam gear had jumped forward a tooth. I rotated it again, and this time when returning to 0deg the cam gears were both lined up again. I did it again and again and the result was consistent every time. Every revolution jumps back then forward. I didn't even know this was POSSIBLE.. I replaced the cam AND gear and the problem is gone. The car runs and idles perfectly, fires up every time.

Thanks for everyone's help. I think we all knew this would be some kind of odd never-heard-of-before kind of an issue.

Thanks again.