depends on the connection im using. If subject to flex and stress I prefer crimps with heat shrink. In most cases though I prefer solder with heat shrink extending at least one inch down from each end of the exposed portion.
Solder or Crimp - [injector clips]
- Thread starter isnms
- Start date
I crimp and then solder so the solder flows through the crimp and then heat shrink it.
Cheers,
Roy
Cheers,
Roy
For those that said solder is bad.. this this out of experience or just because something you read?
I twisted my injector wires together and then looped them together, soldered them and then shrink wrapped them, then electrical taped them together. So far so good. If I had read this before I soldered them a month ago, I probably would have went with crimping them instead.
I crimped mine and wrapped them with electrical tape, so far with 2000 miles, no problems, but since I havent had them that long I cant speak on reliability.
Being a subject that I've done extensive research on and feel pretty strongly about, I will comment.
I used to be a big solder advocate for some time. After doing more research into it (and wiring taking center-stage in my business), I found that soldering is not the best method. (It was actually while reading Jeff Hartman's excellent book, How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems, that I first learned about this. He mentions that shops like Norwood Autocraft (land speed record MR2 builder) uses crimps over solder. After that I decided to make a more thorough investigation of the matter).
Consider:
The Motec install manual says:
The AEM manual:
A company that makes race car harnesses:
Not mention the best evidence of all, Toyota (along with every other manufacturer that I know of) uses crimps and NO solder anywhere in the harness.
Now, something that's VERY important that needs to be brought up is WHAT KIND of crimps we're talking about and WHAT KIND of tool you use to crimp them. When I say "crimp", most people picture in their heads the plastic insulated butt connectors that you buy at Autozone or whatever and squeeze together with a wire stripper tool. Those are NOT the type of crimps that professionals use.
Mil-spec crimps are non-insulated (heat-shrink tubing is used after the connection is made), typically made of tin-plated copper. They come in several sizes and the right crimp must be used for the right size wire. Then the crimping tool, with the matching die is used to make the connection. The tool has a ratcheting mechanism, so EVERY single crimp is made using the same amount of pressure EVERY single time. The ratcheting tool also helps to put more force into the crimp then otherwise possible.
As you can see, a lot goes into making a good crimp, and the results are fantastic. However, for the "average" car-owner doing some limited wiring, it is probably not going to be cost-effective to invest a lot of money in the crimping setup that I just described. In such a case, soldering (using the proper technique!) will probably be preferred. There was a question earlier in the thread asking if someone had actually seen a problem with soldering or just read about it. To answer that, I have a number harnesses come into my shop that have been soldered by someone before they came to us (for example, some people extend their 1JZ harness before they learn about our service, and we get it after it's been cut and extended). On almost every occasion, there were at least 2 or 3 otherwise well-soldered connections that had broken because of movement (not to mention the bad connections that were still hanging on by a strand or two). That's why we have to crimp all the connections on the harness in order to maintain the warranty.
We make all of our wiring harnesses using crimps, as we have for the last two years or so. With over 150 plug and play conversions on record, we haven't yet seen a more reliable method of making wiring connections.
I hope that helps!
-Doc
I used to be a big solder advocate for some time. After doing more research into it (and wiring taking center-stage in my business), I found that soldering is not the best method. (It was actually while reading Jeff Hartman's excellent book, How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems, that I first learned about this. He mentions that shops like Norwood Autocraft (land speed record MR2 builder) uses crimps over solder. After that I decided to make a more thorough investigation of the matter).
Consider:
The Motec install manual says:
The AEM manual:
A company that makes race car harnesses:
Not mention the best evidence of all, Toyota (along with every other manufacturer that I know of) uses crimps and NO solder anywhere in the harness.
Now, something that's VERY important that needs to be brought up is WHAT KIND of crimps we're talking about and WHAT KIND of tool you use to crimp them. When I say "crimp", most people picture in their heads the plastic insulated butt connectors that you buy at Autozone or whatever and squeeze together with a wire stripper tool. Those are NOT the type of crimps that professionals use.
Mil-spec crimps are non-insulated (heat-shrink tubing is used after the connection is made), typically made of tin-plated copper. They come in several sizes and the right crimp must be used for the right size wire. Then the crimping tool, with the matching die is used to make the connection. The tool has a ratcheting mechanism, so EVERY single crimp is made using the same amount of pressure EVERY single time. The ratcheting tool also helps to put more force into the crimp then otherwise possible.
As you can see, a lot goes into making a good crimp, and the results are fantastic. However, for the "average" car-owner doing some limited wiring, it is probably not going to be cost-effective to invest a lot of money in the crimping setup that I just described. In such a case, soldering (using the proper technique!) will probably be preferred. There was a question earlier in the thread asking if someone had actually seen a problem with soldering or just read about it. To answer that, I have a number harnesses come into my shop that have been soldered by someone before they came to us (for example, some people extend their 1JZ harness before they learn about our service, and we get it after it's been cut and extended). On almost every occasion, there were at least 2 or 3 otherwise well-soldered connections that had broken because of movement (not to mention the bad connections that were still hanging on by a strand or two). That's why we have to crimp all the connections on the harness in order to maintain the warranty.
We make all of our wiring harnesses using crimps, as we have for the last two years or so. With over 150 plug and play conversions on record, we haven't yet seen a more reliable method of making wiring connections.
I hope that helps!
-Doc
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whenever we have an electrical problem at toyota, the first thing the tech looks at is for any aftermarket install and 8 out of 10 times you find a short in the harness caused by crimping, but connectors, wire twist with electrical tape and so on. We fix by soldering and heat shrink. If the car comes back were working for free. Needless to say it never comes back
Yeah quake I think that goes back to the type of crimp connector used. I do know that on aircraft solder is used very rarely and many things are crimped - just with a different tool and quality connectors
They are really hard to find. Search for crimp tools by AMP or Tyco and you may be able to find them.
-Doc
-Doc