so ive decided...

[Orion ZyGarian]

Stock hood is like 50 lbs, and totally unwieldy if you're trying to hold it yourself. I'd love to have a two piece rotor or something that was bigger than stock but weighed as much or less.

My goal is to find a wheel that weighs as much or less than the diameter, though I'm going to try to be a bit more narrow than most people love. I dont expect to go wider than 9"

 

[josbeat]

about the seat rails
after a long time I bougth one on ebay , Recaro brand but only the driver side
I still using the ones I made with the stock rails, I striped out the seat cutting the rails and bolting a universal racing seat souports in aluminium .
A companny in Japan have it for sale , the name is lowseatrails or somenthing very similar, you can find it in RHDJAPAN.com

dont try to buy the rails from corveau or sparco or other companys because they never answer to my emails and never send me the rails.

 

[AGlobalThreat]

it "might" show more power on a chassis dyno

My point exactly, and there is plenty of dyno proof to show it. I know the engine is not making more hp, but due to the way whp is measured it will show an increase. Even if you are strictly talking about more hp at an earlier RPM. That is still an increase, it's not limited to peak numbers.

I don't consider it a cheat because you will have the same result on the ground as well, faster acceleration (Other effects too such as quicker deceleration).

In my opinion a "cheat" on a dyno is something that is ONLY being done solely on the dyno for bigger numbers. For example dry ice on the intercooler, spraying nitrous into the intake, etc. If it's not going to be done when the car is actually driven, then the numbers were simply inflated during measurement.

Oh right. Power is conserved, there's none "wasted", its physics. You have less weight to pick up and turn, but youre making the same power still. For instance, youre not any stronger if you pick up 20 lbs and move it somewhere vs. 50 lbs, but you'll get there quicker

Orion thank you for the compliment, I always try to help when I feel I can.

That's not the best analogy though since we're talking about rotational mass.

Remember these?

Imagine trying to spin one that weighs 200 lbs.
Now you find a completely identical one (same size) but it's made out of carbon fiber and weighs 100 lbs.

You will be able to accelerate the lighter one quicker, even though you have not gained any strength.



Relocated lightweight battery is a good idea. I have an Odyssey PC680 behind the passenger seat.

Windshield washer assembly hasn't been mentioned yet, 89+ side trim is lighter than pre89, 89+ rear center section is lighter than pre89, my fog light holes and no front lip help cool the brakes even without ducts, etc. etc.

I wouldn't recommend removing power steering unless you have a large diameter steering wheel or the supra is already lightened.

50/50 balance is definitely possible without ballasts, but as with any weight reduction it's all about what you're willing to get rid of.

I do not remember the exact weight of the reinforced FD3S wheels but they were the lightest rims I could find while still having an "acceptable" width. They are 16x8. I'm not sure if I will have them forever because my tire choices are very limited. It's funny the hoosiers were mentioned because that's what I'm replacing my nitto drag radials with. I care less about the tire weight and more about the grip they can give me though.

*waits for IJ to find something* :hsugh:

 

[josbeat]

in my race car for example I changed the front bumper reinforcement for other in aluminium from the yunkyard
aluminium driveshaft weight exactly the same like the carbon one ( I have both )
exhaust is heavy so an aftermarket one is better
at the back of the car where the subframe is , there are four bump stops to limit the movement of the rear subframe...do nothing and weight a lot
the engine is heavy so try to change all the parts you can for lighter ones
I was using the buquets with the stock belt with out problems

 

[te72]

50/50 balance is definitely possible without ballasts, but as with any weight reduction it's all about what you're willing to get rid of.

I care less about the tire weight and more about the grip they can give me though.

You know, at first I was going to point out that ballasts kinda make the weight reduction redundant, but then I realized... that sub setup? Completely unnecessary, but will be about 30-40lbs in a good spot for balancing overall, so... maybe not a terrible idea actually. A more balanced car should handle just as good as a lighter one, to a point, right?

As for the tire weight thing, unsprung weight loss is an amazing thing. The two tires it came down to for my widebody build (the Hoosier A6 and Nitto NT01), the weight difference is something like 6 lbs per tire, for closely sized tires. However, the Nitto should prove grippy enough, and be a little more friendly for street use.

in my race car for example I changed the front bumper reinforcement for other in aluminium from the yunkyard

What car did you pilfer your bumper from? I have a 93 Lexus LS400 outside that is being used as a donor for the Chevy, which has its own fancy bumpers, so the nice, light aluminum ones in the Lexus? Going on my Supra. Thanks for the reminder!

 

[Poodles]

You WANT weight in the flywheel for launching from a dead stop, it's the entire point of it being as heavy as it is.

 

[Supracentral]

You WANT weight in the flywheel for launching from a dead stop, it's the entire point of it being as heavy as it is.

I've driven a MKIV with lightweight pulleys, a lightweight flywheel and an OS Giken triple plate CF clutch. Revved like a sport bike, but it was damned difficult to drive on the street. Without the mass the RPM's drop so fast it's difficult to deal with.

That mass is needed in a street car.

 

[IJ.]

*waits for IJ to find something* :hsugh:

Sorry if you think I'm being picky just seen the lightweight flywheel = more HP BS too many times...

 

[Dylan JZ]

I've also driven cars, even lighter ones, with lightened flywheels and yeah, no thanks.

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

Dylan, I'd offer to let you test mine in the hot pocket since I love it, but to be honest, it wouldnt change your opinion. 8 lbs is way too light for a flywheel on the street, my trans is completely shot, the rubber mounts are even worse, it has a nasty buzz throughout the car at idle, and rev matching is a bit tougher on the synchros, since the revs raise/fall too quickly to hit it just right.

I definitely think a lighter flywheel is a great idea (best thing I've done to my DD), but everyone definitely needs to drive a car with one and decide for themselves. Most aftermarket flywheels get way too light (I went from 18ish to 8.3 in my Miata), so really I dont recommend taking off more than 5-6 lbs unless you really know what youre getting into. In that regard, I feel a chromoly flywheel is definitely superior to aluminum. Yes, you'll like how the drive feels and how much better it is, but for the long term, you can only ignore NVH so much. I used to be proud of how much I took out of the Supra and how noticeably quicker it became, but the fact is the rear seats are amazing for sound deadening, and cruising is much more enjoyable now. In the real world, a few tenths or even a whole second quicker wont amount to much if you have to suffer tinnitus or a ton of NVH the whole time

 

[Falken]

well i found a set of fd wheels but they are not reinforced... i mean he has them super clean. im not sure of buying them he wants 280 obo with potenzas. i mean he lives 2hrs from where i live, so its like 100 dollars in gas if u wanna go pick them up in my supra, or either wait for some xxr's or something to come out thats closer to me and around 500 dollars.

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

yeah those have got to be some of (if not the) lightest OE wheels out there... even aftermarket, I haven't really seen anything that light... just keep in mind, you won't be able to put that much rubber on em, so if you just want a mild amount of power for going in a straight line on slicks, those should be fine...

ask my opinion though, the 91-92 wheels were plenty light enough... I was planning on getting 17" fno1rc's before my car got stolen.... I think those are 17-18 lbs

 

[Falken]

ya i like those fno1rc's i was looking into getting some of those too, no one around my area has them for sale, i mean they look pretty good too.

 

[Falken]

i just found a set... http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/pts/3573925499.html what you think?

 

[Falken]

Well guy already sold them lol, how bout the the mk4 N/A wheels? Do any of you have specs on the those wheels.

 

[Turbo Habanero]

16x9 rear
16x8 front

Not sure about weight

 

[Falken]

Not bad i could put meaty tires

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

I've got a set of MkIV turbo wheels with decent tread that I dont need haha

 

[RazoE]

yeah those have got to be some of (if not the) lightest OE wheels out there... even aftermarket, I haven't really seen anything that light... just keep in mind, you won't be able to put that much rubber on em, so if you just want a mild amount of power for going in a straight line on slicks, those should be fine...

ask my opinion though, the 91-92 wheels were plenty light enough... I was planning on getting 17" fno1rc's before my car got stolen.... I think those are 17-18 lbs

91/92 wheels weigh just as much as sawblades. Better off going with FD Aluminum rims.

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

Well guy already sold them lol, how bout the the mk4 N/A wheels? Do any of you have specs on the those wheels.

a set of 93-97 polished rims were as follows:
fronts: 24.75lbs
rears: 26.55lbsthe 98 polished rims are a bit lighter without the ridges in the centers
fronts: 23.6lbs
rears: 25.4lbsthese are exact weights taken from a mailing center, not a home scale.



Toyota Supra 86.5-89 Cast 16x7 23.0 lbs

91+ 5spokes: 16x7, +44mm - 16lb/ea

^ looking at a 28lb reduction over sawblades


THERE YOU HAVE IT FOLKS... NO MORE MISINFORMATION