so ive decided...

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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I have not corner weighed my car. I don't believe I have the ability or tools to do that at this point. But it sounds like a good idea. I did go to the truck scales and weighed the front axle and rear axle. I found it to be 830kg front and 670 kg rear with me in it and a half a tank. But that was a while back with a 7MGTE. My car has changed after this winter. 2JZGTE new rims and stuff.
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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planemos;1908910 said:
I have not corner weighed my car. I don't believe I have the ability or tools to do that at this point. But it sounds like a good idea. I did go to the truck scales and weighed the front axle and rear axle. I found it to be 830kg front and 670 kg rear with me in it and a half a tank. But that was a while back with a 7MGTE. My car has changed after this winter. 2JZGTE new rims and stuff.
Would be cool to do it again and see if the bias has shifted after the mods!

Never got around to it with mine but when it had the LS/T I'm pretty sure with a full 115L tank it would have been close to 50/50 and made a HUGE difference to turn in.
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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IJ.;1908932 said:
Would be cool to do it again and see if the bias has shifted after the mods!

Never got around to it with mine but when it had the LS/T I'm pretty sure with a full 115L tank it would have been close to 50/50 and made a HUGE difference to turn in.

I wonder if I could use the scales at the airport to corner weigh my car..

That way I could get the car level to not throw off the weight on one corner or the other.
 

AGlobalThreat

Acceleration
Apr 4, 2005
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I will start by saying everyone has their own opinion, and everybody wants different things from their car.

In response to some of the posts in this thread:

If you JUST increase the engine's power, yes in a straight line you will accomplish the same acceleration as a car with a corresponding amount of weight reduction. However, when it comes to slowing down or turning (ceteris paribus) there will be a big advantage for the lighter car. There are lots of other advantages to weight reduction also, fuel efficiency and less stress/wear on components being just two examples. I'm not saying anything bad about increasing an engine's hp or tq output, I'm simply defending weight reduction.

People have mentioned noise, comfort, etc. That's where each situation will be different, because different people want different things. The same goes for factory built cars, one person will think a car is comfy, and a different person will think it is not. There is no definitive answer because it is all relative to what the individual wants.

You shouldn't blame weight reduction for making you lose traction. If you're tires are no longer gripping as well then the tire setup has become a weak link. You don't see people blame a large turbo for traction issues. They understand that with their current setup in the current situation the tires are being pushed past their limit. You can still change suspension, the car's balance, apply downforce, and other things without even having to change the tires. But instead, you put the weight back, slowed the car down lowering the g-force and got traction back. The weight reduction wasn't the problem, it just showed you that your tires are right on the edge of grip. Any modification that increases the force on the tire by the same amount will have the same effect. If you want to put the stuff back that's fine, like I said everyone wants something different, but don't blame it for making you lose traction like it did something wrong. Obviously with a LOT of weight reduction the car will have to be adjusted accordingly, with changes to suspension, alignment, etc.

You can't compare a FR to a FF car, yes we are front heavy but that is like comparing apples to pears.

There are lots of good suggestions in this thread and by searching you will find a TON more. But what it will really come down to is what YOU are comfortable removing. You also have to realize that if you are going past the point of no return, you have to take into consideration you probably would not be able to sell the car in the future. At least not for a price you would think is reasonable. Unless you can find someone that wants to buy the car and wants the exact same things as you. However this goes with any kind of personalizing to an automobile.

With that aside, don't let someone else decide wether or not YOU want interior, or air conditioning, or heat, etc. YOU are the only one that can decide what you can and can't live without and what you will or won't need in the future.

As others have pointed out there is also weight reduction you can do that can't even be seen. The aluminum driveshaft and flywheel are good examples. Reducing rotational mass will also help get more power to the ground. There are lots of other items that can be replaced by lighter ones. The stock seats are a good example. The stock hood is also heavy, stock rims are heavy, etc.

I wouldn't recommend lexan unless you've already done a lot of other weight reduction. It was a lot of work for the small gain and I didn't even have to worry about making it water-proof.

Since you're just starting out you have a lot of options, however please keep safety as the #1 priority, for both you and others around you.
 

IJ.

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AGlobalThreat;1908964 said:
As others have pointed out there is also weight reduction you can do that can't even be seen. The aluminum driveshaft and flywheel are good examples. Reducing rotational mass will also help get more power to the ground. .

Not "more" power, the power doesn't change just the PMoI.
 

IJ.

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Orion ZyGarian;1908972 said:
I think he means more of the same power is making it to the ground.

Terrific post AGT, youve been the biggest name in Mk3 weight savings and have certainly helped the community a ton by sharing that with us.
Would still be wrong ;)
 

IJ.

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The "power" doesn't change, putting a light flywheel and driveshaft on a 500rwhp car doesn't mean it has 550rwhp or even 501rwhp, it still has 500 it just accelerates quicker due to the lower PMoI, it "might" show more power on a chassis dyno due to the way they load up during a pull as you're getting to the meaty part of the torque curve before the dyno is fully loaded but it's a cheat.
 

jdmfreak

PACNW
Oct 8, 2010
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Excuse me while I try to clarify but doesn't that mean that more of your base horsepower is making it to the ground? Or are you just using the same hp just wasting less of it? If that makes sense

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

Orion ZyGarian

Jeff Lange wannabe
Apr 2, 2005
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Oh right. Power is conserved, there's none "wasted", its physics. You have less weight to pick up and turn, but youre making the same power still. For instance, youre not any stronger if you pick up 20 lbs and move it somewhere vs. 50 lbs, but you'll get there quicker
 

Falken

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May 31, 2009
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ya i mean i would love to be lighter just save a bit more gas... but i need to get a daily driver first before i start to tare down the supra.
 

Falken

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May 31, 2009
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I was thinking about getting a set of fd wheels, they don't look half bad, and they might help with weight issues and handling of the car.
 

te72

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Mar 26, 2006
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Weight reduction in a proper way for a street car amounts to one question: How much do you want to spend?

Now, a race car has different rules, but you shouldn't be driving those on the street anyway. For what it is worth, you'll notice unsprung weight reduction sooner than body weight in most cases with the Mk3.

I'll be corner weighting my car once we're done (hooray for friends who do circle track dirt racing!), and while I don't think we're going to hit 50/50 with it, that is our goal. I'm focusing on reducing as much weight as possible off the front end, and moving weight to in front of the rear axle where I can. If I can keep the car under 3500lbs while retaining a full interior and a comfortable car (AC, heat, power windows, all the goodies that the car came with), I'll be happy. To that end, here is the plan:

-87 hardtop to start with (fairly light base car)
-Stance coilovers (less weight than OEM stuff)
-ARZ brakes on all 4 wheels (rotors add weight, but calipers are spooky light, might balance out nicely)
-Every panel on the front of the car is carbon fiber. (have yet to weigh it all, but we're talking a good amount less weight than the stock hood alone, TOTAL)
-Carbon fiber driveshaft (should save ~35 lbs)
-lightest wheels I can reasonably afford, CCW, Work, SSR potentials since nobody makes custom forged magnesium these days...
-Battery (and possibly fuse box) moved to the former rear seat location. If the Optima fails, I might go with a Braile.
-1x 10" sub, also located where the rear seat used to be, because I like a nice full sound from my music, and it should aid in the rearward shift of balance.

I think that's about it for the most part, as far as this sort of thing goes. It's a shame Hoosiers aren't a very smart tire choice for a street car, because WOW... they're light.