Slow's build: Wheelie Bar Equipped

SupaMan

Want The Boooooossttttttt
Oct 12, 2006
1,101
0
0
Cape Coral,Florida
I dunno alot about welding so excuse me for this question.

Wouldnt you have to fully weld the first three runners to the collector before you put the last three in it? or how would you fully weld them?

Now that ive thought about that question it seems that either way your in the same position i have in my mind because even if you weld the first three before the last three then the last three are still in a tight spot on the insides of the pipes.

Sorry if i made no sense at all.
 

fstoy

Soon to be Evil Twin
Mar 30, 2005
124
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0
54
Texas
SupaMan said:
I dunno alot about welding so excuse me for this question.

Wouldnt you have to fully weld the first three runners to the collector before you put the last three in it? or how would you fully weld them?

Now that ive thought about that question it seems that either way your in the same position i have in my mind because even if you weld the first three before the last three then the last three are still in a tight spot on the insides of the pipes.

Sorry if i made no sense at all.

Thats why i would not even try building my own header. If i did one, i would end up with a nice looking header that still needs half the welding done.
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
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Newington, CT
What you do is tack each runner together, and then once all the runners are done, you break the tacks on the flange, and then fully weld all the runners. Then you set them back into the flange and then fully weld the runners to the flange.
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
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Newington, CT
fstoy said:
You need to move down to TX. We could get a larger shop together, i have a auto lift, tools, ect. and you have the skills.
Winters here are mild, Think about it!

Don't tease.....lol. I don't see myself in CT for too much longer for sure. Maybe 2 years max....
 

thechori

supra-deprived
Oct 3, 2006
567
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houston
fstoy said:
You need to move down to TX. We could get a larger shop together, i have a auto lift, tools, ect. and you have the skills.
Winters here are mild, Think about it!
you guys could sponsor my 7M powered drift car! haha w0000t

where is your shop located fstoy? you need some workers? :naughty:
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
0
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Newington, CT
Ds650rida said:
i just read through the whole thread.

Sick shit, what kinda et's are you shooting for?

Goal is 7.90s.

Its going to take a looooooooong time to get there (lots of suspension tuning, getting used to the car, and broken parts) But thats where i want it to be eventually. The turbo is capable of it, just gotta make it all work as one....
 

jt2ma71

Impeller Head
Mar 30, 2005
868
0
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Washington State
www.cardomain.com
Slow66 said:
What you do is tack each runner together, and then once all the runners are done, you break the tacks on the flange, and then fully weld all the runners. Then you set them back into the flange and then fully weld the runners to the flange.

Looking good!!

More tips: Looks like the welds/tacks are still too hot. You want none to very little sugaring on the inside. Keep the tungsten really close to the material and you don't need a welding rod to just do the tacks as long as there are no gaps in the joints :) have fun!!
 

Tun_x

Built to do the NASTY!!
Apr 1, 2005
878
0
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Utah
Slow66 said:
Ask and ye shall recieve....

Runner #2
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Runner #3
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Will do #4 tomorrow or tuesday....
I got a chubbie
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
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Newington, CT
jt2ma71 said:
Looking good!!

More tips: Looks like the welds/tacks are still too hot. You want none to very little sugaring on the inside. Keep the tungsten really close to the material and you don't need a welding rod to just do the tacks as long as there are no gaps in the joints :) have fun!!

Not using any rod for the tacks at all. Developed a little hole on one of the joints when it wasn't quite tight enough so i filled it a bit, but i agree its a bit "hot looking" Using 50 amps max, 3/32 red to a point, and 20 cfh argon. Not gonna do the full welding until i work on some more scrap 321 first.
 

88YotaTurbo

New Member
Feb 26, 2006
658
0
0
39
Wolcott, Ct.
Slow66 said:
Not using any rod for the tacks at all. Developed a little hole on one of the joints when it wasn't quite tight enough so i filled it a bit, but i agree its a bit "hot looking" Using 50 amps max, 3/32 red to a point, and 20 cfh argon. Not gonna do the full welding until i work on some more scrap 321 first.
:aigo: :aigo: :aigo:
Someone is speaking French, I have to learn about welding.
Soldering on the other hand. Mucho easy.
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
0
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Newington, CT
Enraged said:
out of curiousity, was that intake flange from rossmachine? I noticed they have a "supra" flange listed on their site, but doesnt mention the motor.

Nope...unfortunately the one they make is for the 2j.

I just had steps cut into the flange for the Ross Machine oval tubing i have.
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
2,118
3
38
Edmonton
How the hell are you going to have room to run a bead on the "inside" of the last runner you weld up (at the collector)?
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Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
0
0
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Newington, CT
adampecush said:
How the hell are you going to have room to run a bead on the "inside" of the last runner you weld up (at the collector)?

The runners aren't welded to the collector. It is a double slip fit and the runners are bolted to the collector. Some pics to help show what i mean....

runner with outer slip to the left, collector to the right
01100022.jpg


tabs are welded to the runner and the collector to facilitate bolting together....kinda like this...(only not so far apart)
dynosys_assy.jpg



Make better sense?:)