Slow to crank and wont start

AW11inVa

New Member
Nov 15, 2007
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Broadway Va
I apologize if this has been covered before and did not see much about my issue.

I picked up a 1989 n/a and brought it home today. The PO said that after a new distributor was installed the car just died on him while driving. The PO had someone tell him the motor was siezed. I put a good battery in it and it would slowly turn over and the starter would make a loud whirling type noise. I checked the oil level and it was good and the timing belt is ok. It would just crank really slowly and the dash lights would dim and make the strange noise. Anyone every have a similar situation? Matt
 

Kckazdude

Active Member
Mar 16, 2007
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Memphis, TN
As previously stated, check to see it the motor turns fairly freely when the plugs are pulled by hand. If it turns then check your positive and negative cables for corrosion and good contact.
 

AW11inVa

New Member
Nov 15, 2007
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Broadway Va
I did not have much time this morning before work I got it up on ramps. I was able to turn the motor all the way around with some effort with the spark plugs in. I will remove them tonite and try again I just had no time this morning. Though I am starting to suspect the car has an electrical issue. I will replace the battery cables and clean up the ground points too. Even with the issues and faded paint that is one good looking car. Not looking forward to electrical work though I chased down electrical gremlins in my MR2 for weeks that was not fun LOL
 

rumptis

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Aug 16, 2005
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Sounds like the Battery could be bad or discharged.

Swap a known good battery in it and try again.

If it still doesn't start check and make sure it getting gas and spark.
 

AW11inVa

New Member
Nov 15, 2007
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Broadway Va
Thanks for your reply. I am at work now I guess I forgot to mention that I did put in a good battery from my MR2 and that got the starter to slowly turn over and the wierd noise it was making. With the old battery it will just make the dash lights go dim and the tach bounces which makes me think this is an electrical problem.

I do need to dump the old gas out of this car. On my MR2 disconnected the fuel line and then I jumped the leads on the diagnosis port and turned on the fuel pump and emptied the tank that way. Can you do something similar on the supra or is there some other way to do it at the tank?

Forgive my ignorance on this car I have only owned it a day and had very little time to look at it. Matt
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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Florida
AW11inVa said:
I apologize if this has been covered before and did not see much about my issue.

I picked up a 1989 n/a and brought it home today. The PO said that after a new distributor was installed the car just died on him while driving. The PO had someone tell him the motor was siezed. I put a good battery in it and it would slowly turn over and the starter would make a loud whirling type noise. I checked the oil level and it was good and the timing belt is ok. It would just crank really slowly and the dash lights would dim and make the strange noise. Anyone every have a similar situation? Matt
Has the car been sitting for awhile? If so check all the pullys to see if anything maybe siezed up, like the alt., WP etc.
And like they have said try a good charged battery.
 

AW11inVa

New Member
Nov 15, 2007
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Broadway Va
Its been sitting 5 years. I pulled 2 plugs and things seem to be turning. Whoever designed that intake piping over the spark plug valley needs a beating LOL

I pulled the negaive battery terminal wire and cleaned the area where it bolts to the block with sand paper and the ground point on the intake and by the diagnosis port. I will stop by the store tommorow and buy a new Neg. wire for it.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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Richmond, VA
Another thing to note.. the code 11 usually signifies a weak ground. On the bottom of the intake manifold there will be some wires mounted. These wires are the only wires for the ECU and engine harness. Clean these off with some sand paper as well to ensure that the ECU is getting a good ground.

If you're still seeing code 11 after clearing the codes (by pulling efi fuse) then it's probably caused by a weak battery, or the ECU is not getting enough power because you're draining it trying to crank possibly seized motor over.
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
Sounds like a bad starter. It could be shorted internally.
If its been sitting 5 years: The first thing you need to do is change the oil, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and fuel filter. You probably need to drain the old gas out of the tank, and put some fresh in it. Luckily our tanks have a drain built into the bottom. After you've done that, then you can can proceed to starting the car. Pull the efi fuse so the car won't start while you figure out the problem with the starting system. There's no oil in the motor, and you need to prime the system so that everything has fresh oil before you actually start the car. Once the pressure comes up(usually crank it for a minute or 2), then replace the efi fuse, and start the car.
 

AW11inVa

New Member
Nov 15, 2007
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Broadway Va
hottscennessey said:
Another thing to note.. the code 11 usually signifies a weak ground. On the bottom of the intake manifold there will be some wires mounted. These wires are the only wires for the ECU and engine harness. Clean these off with some sand paper as well to ensure that the ECU is getting a good ground.

If you're still seeing code 11 after clearing the codes (by pulling efi fuse) then it's probably caused by a weak battery, or the ECU is not getting enough power because you're draining it trying to crank possibly seized motor over.

Thanks, that is one of the ground points I cleaned up last night. I bought a new ground wire today. The starter looked like it was replaced in the last few years but that does not mean anything I guess. I will throw this wire on tonite and see what happens.
 

AW11inVa

New Member
Nov 15, 2007
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Broadway Va
I put on a new ground wire with a lead to the body ground. That cleared out the #11 code and now the check engine light is steady showing no codes. I tried to get the starter out but could not get to the top bolt holding it on. It does look to be in new condition as if it was replaced before the car broke down. With the new wire the starter did seem to turn stronger. But the engine was turning really slow. I pulled all the plugs and it still did not make it easier to turn. I had a long 1/2" ratchet on the crank, one foot on the drivers wheel and with both hands pulling with effort to turn the motor. I hit the key with the plugs out too and it did not spin any easier. Anyway here is a short video of the situation.

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c298/msjohndrow/supra/?action=view&current=supravideo.flv