San antonio
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They are talking about making it longer and maybe a car show in the end, but probably the same route with maybe more added to it.NicMK3;1899023 said:
They are talking about making it longer and maybe a car show in the end, but probably the same route with maybe more added to it.NicMK3;1899023 said:
Hey guys I should have my jz power 240sx running soon, I just need a few small parts and then to bolt everything back together. Hopefully I will be cruising within 2 weeks.
Where do you guys get your driveshafts made.?
Where do you guys get your driveshafts made.?
I think Driftmotion can help you with that if you give them the dimentions of the driveshaft you need.sterlingae;1899349 said:
There is thrash driveshaft & driveshafts unlimited here in San Antonio that can make you one.
1988ma70supra;1899891 said:
Only if you make a few passes down the 1/4. I might be able to make it. I'll let you guys know toward the middle of the week.
Last I drove my car I was having boosting issues. It felt like the classic boost leak. I check all of my hardpipes and coupler and found none. That was until I looked again today. This is what I found.
This coupler sits very close to the turbo manifold. That's just the way I have my pipes/coupler routed and can't really move it much. I'm going to have to get another coupler and try to heat wrap the manifold in that spot and the coupler. Hopefully that will keep the heat from eating through the coupler.
I'm also working on putting a -10 drain line on the turbo. My last drain line was too small and I believe the oil was backing up and making my turbo smoke. I'm going to see if this bigger drain line helps. Hopefully I haven't ruined my turbo in the process of running that noodle size drain line.
This coupler sits very close to the turbo manifold. That's just the way I have my pipes/coupler routed and can't really move it much. I'm going to have to get another coupler and try to heat wrap the manifold in that spot and the coupler. Hopefully that will keep the heat from eating through the coupler.
I'm also working on putting a -10 drain line on the turbo. My last drain line was too small and I believe the oil was backing up and making my turbo smoke. I'm going to see if this bigger drain line helps. Hopefully I haven't ruined my turbo in the process of running that noodle size drain line.
I've got another coupler ordered and on the way. I have to pick up some heat shield wrap and see if I can somewhat protect the new silicone coupler from doing the same thing as the last one did. We'll see how this set up holds up.
I'll probably run a couple of passes but on low boost. The car has been running really well and i dont want to change that.Suprapowaz!(2);1899913 said:
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I never updated on how the exhaust helicoil job went, so here it is:
After removing everything in the way to get to the exhaust manifold I tried to tighten the studs just to get an idea how bad they had gotten and noticed that 2 of the bolts were so bad that I could literally tighten them with my hand and they would just keep spinning. I took off the bolts and saw this:
Yup I was gonna need new threads.
I knew I had an exhaust leak but I really didn't know how bad it was until I removed the exhaust manifold.
Everything that came in the driftmotion kit is exactly what you need although if your going to do it with the head on the car you will need to get an angled drill in order to have enough clearance especially for the hole in the far back. I bought an angled air drill that barely took up any space. I took my time like suggested on here and pretty much let the drill guide itself through the hole. I did mark the drill bit with a sharpie in order to know when i had reached the end of the hole and not drill any deeper. After drilling the holes everything was alot easier and went smother. I moved onto tapping the head for the new threads the helicoils will latch onto and made the mistake of forgetting to use the metal cutting fluid that was supplied in the kit so I struggled with the first tap. After that it was smooth sailing, I used the tool provided to insert the helicoils and then put in the studs. Here's a shot of my new threads
I mounted the exhaust manifold with a new gasket and torqued all of them down to 29lbs as the TSRM specifies.
I was about to mount the turbo and remembered seeing some oil seepage coming from the gasket, so i decided to put in a new one before mouting it back on. I put the flange back on after changing the gasket and started to hand tighten the 2 bolts that hold it in place. As i hand tighten the second one I feel it give a bit. I pull it out and notice the threads on the tip of the bolt are stripped.
After a ton of profanity being yelled and kicking myself since i probably put the bolt in crooked; I ended up having to take the turbo to a machine shop to get it rethreaded and some studs put in. It only cost me 20 bucks so it wasnt too bad and came out to be a stronger setup.
After being convinced by my hood hitting me on the head around 5 times while doing the helicoils I fianlly installed a proper hood prop and ditched the ghetto stick.
What do you guys think?
After removing everything in the way to get to the exhaust manifold I tried to tighten the studs just to get an idea how bad they had gotten and noticed that 2 of the bolts were so bad that I could literally tighten them with my hand and they would just keep spinning. I took off the bolts and saw this:
Yup I was gonna need new threads.
I knew I had an exhaust leak but I really didn't know how bad it was until I removed the exhaust manifold.
Everything that came in the driftmotion kit is exactly what you need although if your going to do it with the head on the car you will need to get an angled drill in order to have enough clearance especially for the hole in the far back. I bought an angled air drill that barely took up any space. I took my time like suggested on here and pretty much let the drill guide itself through the hole. I did mark the drill bit with a sharpie in order to know when i had reached the end of the hole and not drill any deeper. After drilling the holes everything was alot easier and went smother. I moved onto tapping the head for the new threads the helicoils will latch onto and made the mistake of forgetting to use the metal cutting fluid that was supplied in the kit so I struggled with the first tap. After that it was smooth sailing, I used the tool provided to insert the helicoils and then put in the studs. Here's a shot of my new threads
I mounted the exhaust manifold with a new gasket and torqued all of them down to 29lbs as the TSRM specifies.
I was about to mount the turbo and remembered seeing some oil seepage coming from the gasket, so i decided to put in a new one before mouting it back on. I put the flange back on after changing the gasket and started to hand tighten the 2 bolts that hold it in place. As i hand tighten the second one I feel it give a bit. I pull it out and notice the threads on the tip of the bolt are stripped.
After a ton of profanity being yelled and kicking myself since i probably put the bolt in crooked; I ended up having to take the turbo to a machine shop to get it rethreaded and some studs put in. It only cost me 20 bucks so it wasnt too bad and came out to be a stronger setup.
After being convinced by my hood hitting me on the head around 5 times while doing the helicoils I fianlly installed a proper hood prop and ditched the ghetto stick.
What do you guys think?
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Yea man I'm glad you got that done you had all kinds of exhaust comin out before the run where did you get the hood holders I'm tired of my golf club lol
Nic
Nic
Hey y'all I'm looking for a good gauge pillar where should I look and a good/ good price boost gauge what companies or websites should I check out
Nic
Nic
Rockauto.com for hood supports. They're cheap and easy to install. I'd check ebay for the guage piller pod.
Thank you for the rock auto info, and as for gauges themselfs aem is nice and all but way out of my price range, any advice on accurate illuminating gauges?
Nic
Nic
summitracing.com and jegs.com have tons of guages. Autometer & VDO gauges are nice and accurate. I'm sure the Summit brand gauges work as well.
Hey yall. Didnt see a houston thread so i figured id drop in here lol.
New to Supra forums and just got my 87 supra. Got it for cheap and am gonna be doing the 2jzgte swap.
Currently has a bad rod with a 2jzge and am just waiting for a good weekend to tear it down and fix the GE and drive it till i get everything together for the gte swap.
Oh and im Kase. From small town known as Columbus
Hope this forum is as awesome as the others ive been on
New to Supra forums and just got my 87 supra. Got it for cheap and am gonna be doing the 2jzgte swap.
Currently has a bad rod with a 2jzge and am just waiting for a good weekend to tear it down and fix the GE and drive it till i get everything together for the gte swap.
Oh and im Kase. From small town known as Columbus
Hope this forum is as awesome as the others ive been on
ctownturbo;1900507 said:Hey yall. Didnt see a houston thread so i figured id drop in here lol.
New to Supra forums and just got my 87 supra. Got it for cheap and am gonna be doing the 2jzgte swap.
Currently has a bad rod with a 2jzge and am just waiting for a good weekend to tear it down and fix the GE and drive it till i get everything together for the gte swap.
Oh and im Kase. From small town known as Columbus
Hope this forum is as awesome as the others ive been on
Welcome Kase. Got any pics of your car? There should be some Houstin guys around here ...not that I'm tryin to shoo you away. My grandpa lived in Columbus....my he rest in peace. Nice town from what i remember but a little too small for my taste.