"safe" numbers for 7M-GTE internals

[Turbo Habanero]

Ever think it might be people are just getting sick of you jumping into EVERY 7M thread with your 1Jz advice.... Enough already consider this a warning next time you do it you get a week off. :nono:

It's not a big deal people need to know every opinion so they can form there own

By the way Andy i never really see crazy high HP 1j's what is safe numbers on there stock block? and does the 1j have stock forged internals ? i know it has a MHG correct?

 

[andyr33]

7m

 

[IBoughtASupra]

It's not a big deal people need to know every opinion so they can form there own

By the way Andy i never really see crazy high HP 1j's what is safe numbers on there stock block? and does the 1j have stock forged internals ? i know it has a MHG correct?

The 1JZ has the same block as the 2JZ but it is a half an inch shorter due to the shorter stroke. So if the 2JZ blocks go to 700-800 easily, same can be done with the 1JZ blocks. Albert is shooting for 700HP and there is a SC that has those numbers on YouTube when the 1JZ swaps just started years ago so with all the advancements in tuning, it's doable.

The 1JZ rods are shorter, really short, darn thing is like a munchkin compared to a 2JZ rod so theortically speaking, with a shorter stroke and rod it could even hold more power than the 2JZ rod.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Ever think it might be people are just getting sick of you jumping into EVERY 7M thread with your 1Jz advice.... Enough already consider this a warning next time you do it you get a week off. :nono:

Not really, as I can bring up a recent thread where the OP is doing a 7M and I recommended a shop close to him that I know will do an excellent job on his motor along with suggestion for internals.

If you read the thread, I suggested JZ it BUT I also asked for a power goal as well to know what would be more COST EFFECTIVE in the long run for room to grow and reliability and replacement parts.

Not sure why you'd want to ban me for something like this as this is the recent thread where the OP is decided on going 7M BUT I suggested a JZ still after not seeing any power goal.

 

[gurley0916]

Ever think it might be people are just getting sick of you jumping into EVERY 7M thread with your 1Jz advice.... Enough already consider this a warning next time you do it you get a week off. :nono:

its just an opinion, it like an asshole everyone has them
Its just another perspective to look at...after all he could go 2j too!

 

[crisp]

Ever think it might be people are just getting sick of you jumping into EVERY 7M thread with your 1Jz advice.... Enough already consider this a warning next time you do it you get a week off. :nono:

Not really, as I can bring up a recent thread where the OP is doing a 7M and I recommended a shop close to him that I know will do an excellent job on his motor along with suggestion for internals.

If you read the thread, I suggested JZ it BUT I also asked for a power goal as well to know what would be more COST EFFECTIVE in the long run for room to grow and reliability and replacement parts.

Not sure why you'd want to ban me for something like this as this is the recent thread where the OP is decided on going 7M BUT I suggested a JZ still after not seeing any power goal.

The FORCE is STRONG with this one...

:biglaugh:





-crisp

 

[Poodles]

Anyway, back to the original issue.

The real answer is always "how much do you want to spend?"

The #1 difference between the MKIV and MKIII guys is tuning IMHO. They tend to jump into standalones (and the required tuning) far earlier than the typical MKIII owner, and it shows. The highest known "stock" 7M (was blueprinted and used a MHG, forgot what fasteners) was over 700HP but with a standalone. No idea if he could have gone even higher like they do with the 2J cars, but it wouldn't surprise me.

Tuning is everything. You could have an engine made out of the most exotic and durable materials around, but it's still going to only make it harder to break, but not unbreakable from poor tuning.

/rant :rofl:

 

[hvyman]

I second the above post.

 

[MRSUPRA]

I made 511rwhp years ago on a Stock 7M with very little effort (stock ecu). It was just a stock rebuild with a cometic headgasket. Would of pushed it further but ran out of fuel.

 

[funky_monkey58]

230hp

 

[Dani87x]

Over 9000

 

[Nick M]

I can think of several reasons NOT to go IS300 upgrade, and in my case, have yet to see the reason why I MUST.

I like the "upgrade" in that it doesn't down grade. It is cosmetic, in that many people don't want the coil pack in that spot. I like the change over, but haven't done it because it isn't needed.

 

[Nick M]

The 1JZ rods are shorter, really short, darn thing is like a munchkin compared to a 2JZ rod so theortically speaking, with a shorter stroke and rod it could even hold more power than the 2JZ rod.

Where do you get this nonsense? Are you trying to claim a better rod ratio and that is why it is better? The size of the connecting rod doesn't effect its strength, aside from the bigger it is stronger. I wonder if International and Cummins know they are doing it wrong and need shorter rods...

edit: bowing out of this thread, you want to post nonsense, go ahead

 

[harley1985]

OP wants to do a 7M. I'll just support that.

With that said, I am going to be making another thread of the proper way to rebuild/machine 7Ms and talking about write ups, I will be making a few additions to the 1JZ thread soon.

Ian, if you are reading this, be prepared for me to pick the knowledge from your brain!

awesome! im starting my build around june when i get back in country so ill be using it for sure

 

[harley1985]

Valid point, yes.

I support you. Go ahead and do the 7M. Create a build thread as well.

did i win? did i win? lol sorry for real though, i was really wanting to do a 1z or 2z but chose to stay with the 7m because of the price to do the swap the right way. one of these days i will. and ya create a build thread for sure

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Where do you get this nonsense? Are you trying to claim a better rod ratio and that is why it is better? The size of the connecting rod doesn't effect its strength, aside from the bigger it is stronger. I wonder if International and Cummins know they are doing it wrong and need shorter rods...

edit: bowing out of this thread, you want to post nonsense, go ahead

So a longer stroke does not increase piston speed? Better rod ratio, less rotating mass which allows higher revving.

 

[Supra0089]

My 7m was pushing 402rwhp for about 3 months. I thought I was safe, as I took almost every precaution in my build to avoid issues. The build was meant to hold 400rwhp reliably for the supra b/c it's my daily driver in the summers. The motor had 30k miles on it...and sure enough I had a little detonation while passing a car. Cylinder #1 has lost compression.

Anyway, to make a long story short...I was on the fence about swapping in a 2jz for about 3 or 4 months...but in the end I'm going to stick with the 7m, upgrade the internals, and go standalone. I believe with a previous poster that the tuning is where it's at...and I am confident that with a standalone, I probably would not have had issues with the motor at 400rwhp (this is on an built auto).

If you do it the right way, sticking with the 7M is not a bad idea. If you do this, I would save up and do all the right steps at once...meaning standalone, and if possible pistons, bearings etc etc.

There are some build cost threads in the 2jz section...and you're looking at over 5k just in parts to do the swap...and if you pay someone to do it...then you're looking upwards 8/10k depending on how they prep the motor ect.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

OP,
Can you please answer the question

Power Goal
Tuning Equipment
Mods Already Done

We don't want you to be limited to stock internals. If you want 500HP and stock internals would be good for it if the tune is right but maybe we can recommend certain parts/upgrades to get you to your power level.

Keep in mind, if the stock internals are good for your power level, it doesn't mean you can't upgrade a few parts for additional safety. The greatest upgrade you can add to your system would be a standalone to control all aspect of your engine assume your motor can handle the power you are looking for.

 

[GrimJack]

So a longer stroke does not increase piston speed? Better rod ratio, less rotating mass which allows higher revving.

Sure it does. However, the LENGTH of the rod has an insignificant effect on the stroke. The stroke comes from the crank.

 

[Enraged]

The #1 difference between the MKIV and MKIII guys is tuning IMHO. They tend to jump into standalones (and the required tuning) far earlier than the typical MKIII owner, and it shows. The highest known "stock" 7M (was blueprinted and used a MHG, forgot what fasteners) was over 700HP but with a standalone. No idea if he could have gone even higher like they do with the 2J cars, but it wouldn't surprise me.

Tuning is everything. You could have an engine made out of the most exotic and durable materials around, but it's still going to only make it harder to break, but not unbreakable from poor tuning.

+1

I think the best mod I've done to my car was my AEM standalone. I didn't need it at my power level (stock turbo stock fuel) but it opens up a world of opportunity for tuning. I can run speed density, so I am no longer limited to the AFM and the stock fuel cut. My car made 320rwhp on a dyno dynamics without really pushing it. I doubt I would have broken 300rwhp with the stock setup. Plus, whenever I upgrade the turbo/injectors/etc, it's relatively easy to adjust my setting to suit.