Rod touching the block

[Supraholics]

Hi all,

I'm looking for some help from the Supramania master minds.

It looks like before this rebuild, the rods were touching the block; perhaps after the bearings went? not sure. Currently, the rods are not touching at all when rotating, but one of them (first pic) does rub (rod bolt to block) when a thin piece of manila folder is placed in between the block and the rod and the crank is spun. It makes a small impression on the piece of folder.

Without the piece of folder, it rotates freely. This is a friend's engine and I just want to make sure that later on it wont start hitting the block and loosen up the rod bolt and the whole thing goes to hell.

Thanks,
Mig.

 

[IJ.]

New one for me!

Non stock Rod bolts?
(When using Pauter Rods you have to grind notches in the block but never seen it on H beam rods)

 

[Supraholics]

WUT? Nah... That cannot be!!!!!

ARP rod bolts. They're a little beefier. I don't get why the other rods are fine except this one. The one where the rod bolt dug into the block deeper, I would guess has plenty of clearance now.

 

[IJ.]

Bolts in backwards on that rod?
(from memory there's a fat half and a thin half on the head of the bolt)

 

[Supraholics]

Bolts in backwards on that rod?
(from memory there's a fat half and a thin half on the head of the bolt)

Properly installed. There is a side that has a shaved edge. I'm not sure whether it would be ok with that little space and obviously taking it all apart to shave the block would be the last option.

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

New one for me!

Non stock Rod bolts?
(When using Pauter Rods you have to grind notches in the block but never seen it on H beam rods)

This is the first I've heard of grinding notches in the block for the Pauter rods. Guess I'd better check to see if it was done. New about the oil pump drive shaft having to be turned down for clearance at high RPM...what a nightmare!

 

[Supraholics]

Yeah, I've heard about the Pauter rods needing grinding at the bottom of the cylinder walls, but this never. BTW, everything is stock on this block, except for the ARP rod bolts. Any ideas as to how to give it a little more clearance without taking this all apart? I feel weary about grinding down the rod bolt's head. OR, do you think that little bit of clearance should be ok?

 

[TheNewRed]

Im no expert but I have never seen this with factory rods, something has to be off, or incorrectly installed... but if all clearances are good, grinding on the block wouldnt hurt it, good luck on getting the tool in there.

 

[IJ.]

Yeah, I've heard about the Pauter rods needing grinding at the bottom of the cylinder walls, but this never. BTW, everything is stock on this block, except for the ARP rod bolts. Any ideas as to how to give it a little more clearance without taking this all apart? I feel weary about grinding down the rod bolt's head. OR, do you think that little bit of clearance should be ok?

It will fuck with the balance in a couple of bad ways....

I'd prefer to grind the block if needs be but there has to be a reason it's hitting in the first place and that needs to be addressed.

As I said never seen this and if it's that close stock how do the Stroker guys swing a crank at all?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Maybe the rod needs to be flipped around, oil hole on the wrong side? Just guessing.

 

[IJ.]

Maybe the rod needs to be flipped around, oil hole on the wrong side? Just guessing.

Don't think it would make any difference they're symetrical Andy.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

O, well something is wrong because I have never seen this. Find it hard any rod manufacture would design a rod that requires the block to be grind down.

 

[IJ.]

O, well something is wrong because I have never seen this. Find it hard any rod manufacture would design a rod that requires the block to be ground down.

Trust me on this I've used Pauters in 4 blocks and they all needed to be relieved, the Rods come with a Tech sheet explaining where/how much.

As I said though never seen a H Beam rod come even close, would be good if one of the Stroker guys could jump in.

 

[Supraholics]

Would video help you guys have a more clear idea? Would you like to see the crank rotating? I really don't know what's happening.

 

[IJ.]

What are the bearing clearences on that Rod?

Don't think Vid is going to help, would be good if someone else has an engine on a stand that can check that particular rod for clearence to the block.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Why would a manufacture make a rod like that?

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

Trust me on this I've used Pauters in 4 blocks and they all needed to be relieved, the Rods come with a Tech sheet explaining where/how much.

As I said though never seen a H Beam rod come even close, would be good if one of the Stroker guys could jump in.

Well all I can say is that I "HOPE"? JE followed the tech sheet and relieved the block. If not it's pull the motor and start all over.

 

[IJ.]

Why would a manufacture make a rod like that?

The 7M is a bit of a freak being long stroke smallish bore, Pauter's rods are all made off their own design but it's a bit of a generic thing, the profile does have lots of advantages though so it's worth the time to clearence the block and use them.

Well all I can say is that I "HOPE"? JE followed the tech sheet and relieved the block. If not it's pull the motor and start all over.

<fingers crossed>

 

[Supraholics]

What are the bearing clearences on that Rod?

Don't think Vid is going to help, would be good if someone else has an engine on a stand that can check that particular rod for clearence to the block.

Clearance on the bearings is .025.

 

[Supraholics]

Nothing?