:wtf:Was the block line bored? Its possible the crank moved upwards into the block enough from a line bore to set all the rods closer to the block? Just a shot in the dark
Rod touching the block
- Thread starter Supraholics
- Start date
CyFi6;1688815 said:
IBoughtASupra;1688818 said:
Yeah, I don't think that's it. The diameter was within spec. Also, the crank was turned .025, so it needs over sized bearings. However the clearance is .025, a little bit tighter than OEM, but it was done to improve oil pressure. They way I see, there are three options:
1 - leave it like that.
2 - Grind the block with crank, rods, in place (assembled) and try to have a shop vac sucking up all the shavings.
3 - disassemble everything, then grind.
??????
Well when they line bore it they remove material in order to make it round and original size again, essentially moving the crankshaft up into the block. Considering you have a 100% stock bottom end as far as crank and rods are concerned and you are still hitting, something has changed. I would be inclined to figure out what it is before clearancing the block but that is just me. Even with a reground crank and the use of undersize bearings everything should sit in the same position it did from the facrtory. I also wouldn't be grinding anything without fully taking it apart.
CyFi6;1688840 said:
The only difference from stock is ARP rod bolts and the crank was redone and now uses .025 over bearings. If I were to use OEM rod bolts, there would be a lot more space. I have a spare block apart. I will compare the two and see if there are any differences.
They are using oversize bearing to replace the material taken off which should let the crank sit in the same area it sat before having any machine work done.
Something else is wrong.
Something else is wrong.
Do you guys think the crank and rods would expand enough (the thickness of a manila folder) to later start touching the block? Should the crank assembly be left alone or taken apart and the block shaven a bit to make more room?
I would just take the time to cut a little clearence, and be done with it.
I personally would look at doing it without a full tear down with some creative masking off of all areas except where you want to remove a little metal.
Remove the rod caps, push the pistons to the top of the bores, pull the crank out.
Then carefully degrease the surrounding areas, and start masking.
You will want to have a lower end that looks like a mummy wrapped in 2" wide masking tape.
Hope you have an engine stand, then you can turn it, and work from the bottom, so there is less chance of crap falling into the engine.
Have a buddy help you by holding a shop-vac nozzle while you cut the offending close spots.
Use an electric grinder, as an air powered one will tend to defeat the tape job with it's discharge.
Use a all metal cutting burr, as an abrasive stone will create debris of it's own.
But if you don't want to attempt all that, then pull the engine all the way down.
Do it, clean it, and put it back together.
As they say, practice make perfect.
The next time, no matter what engine you work on, you will pre-fit parts before you do the final assembly.
I've been there, I am sure that IJ has been there, it's all part of the learning curve.
I personally would look at doing it without a full tear down with some creative masking off of all areas except where you want to remove a little metal.
Remove the rod caps, push the pistons to the top of the bores, pull the crank out.
Then carefully degrease the surrounding areas, and start masking.
You will want to have a lower end that looks like a mummy wrapped in 2" wide masking tape.
Hope you have an engine stand, then you can turn it, and work from the bottom, so there is less chance of crap falling into the engine.
Have a buddy help you by holding a shop-vac nozzle while you cut the offending close spots.
Use an electric grinder, as an air powered one will tend to defeat the tape job with it's discharge.
Use a all metal cutting burr, as an abrasive stone will create debris of it's own.
But if you don't want to attempt all that, then pull the engine all the way down.
Do it, clean it, and put it back together.
As they say, practice make perfect.
The next time, no matter what engine you work on, you will pre-fit parts before you do the final assembly.
I've been there, I am sure that IJ has been there, it's all part of the learning curve.
First make sure the rods are installe correctly but I believe they are symetrical. Just shave the piece of the block with a dremel and you will be fine.
Cover everything before grounding the block to clear the rods. Use old sheets of newspaper and masking tape.